breng
Part of things
Posts: 223
|
|
|
|
|
I have a boot spoiler that has fibreglass construction - it has been painted but unfortunately it has a bow in it.
I am not convinced that sikaflex will hold it. Is there anyway of straightening fibreglass or is there something stronger than sikaflex that will hold it?
|
| |
|
|
stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,841
Club RR Member Number: 174
|
Fibreglass issuesstealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
|
|
|
|
Tiger seal it on then weigh it down with bricks till it sets maybe
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I THINK application of heat from an electric hot air gun can allow minor adjustments and you then quickly quench with a wet rag.
Google for more details
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I THINK application of heat from an electric hot air gun can allow minor adjustments and you then quickly quench with a wet rag. Google for more details I straightened a bonnet on one of my kit cars like that. Boot spoilers come in many shapes and sizes. Depends on the thickness and weight of the actual material you want to deform. Pictures of your deformity would be good..  |
| |
1988 DUTTON LEGERRA MK1 - SPARES DONOR
1989 DUTTON LEGERRA MK2 - CURRENT PROJECT
1990 DUTTON LEGERRA ZS MK2
1990 DUTTON LEGERRA ZS MK2
DUTTON PHAETON S2 - Resting
DUTTON PHAETON S4 - Resting
DUTTON PHAETON S4 - PROJECT X
DUTTON SIERRA S2 - Resting
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
As previously said, a heat gun will do it. Just don't get it too close!! And keep the heat moving.
|
| |
|
|
breng
Part of things
Posts: 223
|
|
|
|
|
Will try heat.
With the spoiler sitting on the bootlid each end is around 1" from the panel - it can be pressed down fairly easily.
|
| |
|
|
scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
Club RR Member Number: 8
|
Fibreglass issuesscimjim
@scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member 8
|
|
|
|
I was taught that as a thermoset, GRP wouldn't bend with heat once it has cured properly.
BUT
I then read something written by someone who definitely knows what he's doing which said that:
A property of the poly resins is referred to as the Tg point, or glass transition point. This is the point on the temp scale where it changes from a stiff and solid glass like substance, to a pliable soft cheese type substance.
Heat the (cured)resin above the Tg, and it WILL bend, then cool it and it will stay bent.
Most poly's are in the 45c~60c range, some of the more expensive polys are near to 80c, if given proper post cure.
Epoxies are similar, but generally have much higher Tg's.
So, YES, you CAN bend the item, or have a good try. The structural shape will have as much influence as the change point of the resin.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
My bonnet was warped by the heat from the exhaust while running shell super duper high performance fuels (don't use that stuff on old ford engines ever) on a hot day and an extended run. It's only thin and quite a large surface area with no bracing, no idea what temperature it reached but it was fine at the end of the run, parked it. spent a couple of hours away from it and when I came back it had sagged by over an inch under it's own weight. Took a while with a hot air gun, clamps, wedges and all sorts to get it popped back out but it did recover near original shape..
|
| |
1988 DUTTON LEGERRA MK1 - SPARES DONOR
1989 DUTTON LEGERRA MK2 - CURRENT PROJECT
1990 DUTTON LEGERRA ZS MK2
1990 DUTTON LEGERRA ZS MK2
DUTTON PHAETON S2 - Resting
DUTTON PHAETON S4 - Resting
DUTTON PHAETON S4 - PROJECT X
DUTTON SIERRA S2 - Resting
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sandbags are better than bricks in holding the spoiler down on the bootlid whilst you heat it up.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
if it pushes down easily then the sikaflex will hold it if you can tape/ weigh it down overnight
|
| |
91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Yeah, you wouldn't believe how strong sikaflex is. If you can push it down by hand then it'll hold no problems. I was taught that as a thermoset, GRP wouldn't bend with heat once it has cured properly. BUT I then read something written by someone who definitely knows what he's doing which said that: A property of the poly resins is referred to as the Tg point, or glass transition point. This is the point on the temp scale where it changes from a stiff and solid glass like substance, to a pliable soft cheese type substance. Heat the (cured)resin above the Tg, and it WILL bend, then cool it and it will stay bent. Most poly's are in the 45c~60c range, some of the more expensive polys are near to 80c, if given proper post cure. Epoxies are similar, but generally have much higher Tg's. So, YES, you CAN bend the item, or have a good try. The structural shape will have as much influence as the change point of the resin. I've experienced this first hand a few times. We fitted Pop-top roofs to VW T5 vans, the roofs came from a cheap supplier so we spent ages getting them to fit perfectly, but we got there in the end. Took the vans to a show, left them parked with the roofs elevated in the sun all day. When we came to go home, one roof had bent like a banana and no longer fitted. After much wrangling we got a new roof from the supplier - three days later it was fitted and painted, no problems, until it was left up in the sun again, but the others were fine. Turns out that this van had a black roof and the supplier was using the cheapest possible resin. The black roof was getting hot enough in the sun to soften it and cause it to bow under it's own weight (it was supported in the middle by the gas struts) My solution would have been to take the roof back off and fit a decent quality one, but we ended up just fitting yet another cheapo one and painting it white.  |
| |
|
|
