luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
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Sooooooo, I seem to have bought some wheels by accident. Well, accidentally on purpose  Try to stick with me here... The PCD is different to my hubs. I have some 20mm spacers that convert the hub PCD to the wheel PCD (4x114.3 to 4x100) The wheels are multi-PCD fitment (4x100 and 4x...I dunno, about 4x110 or so?) The studs on my hubs stick out slightly past the face of the spacers and so stop the wheel mounting flush to the spacer Because the wheels are multi-fitment, they don't have pocketed mounting faces (the inside face, against the hub) So, what's the least hassle-worthy course of action? I don't really want to cut the hub's studs down because if the wheels don't fit or I fancy a change they'll be compromised should I swap back. The wheels have previously had the holes on one of the PCDs ovalised (the PCD I don't need to use) but not enough to help. Would it be acceptable to drill a pocket for clearance on the studs? It wouldn't need to go all the way through, the studs only protrude about 3mm or so. These "pockets" would intrude into the unused PCD slightly so essentially it'd be making an already slightly ovalised hole slightly more oval. If you followed all that, well done Now give us an opinion |
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Could you not just fit shorter studs?
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
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To what? the hub?
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Yeah, I don't know if they will be like others where you can just press the old ones out and put new ones in though.
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Hi, Shorten or fit shorter studs to the hub, That way you can fit different wheels in the future without having to modify them as well. A reason being is studs are cheaper than wheels.
Colin
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don't know if this is an approved method, but it looks like it worked lol
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,565
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I trimmed the end off of the studs when I fitted spacers on my 940. I've got steel wheels so pockets aren't an option. I was going to suggest making up a drilling jig which you can bolt to your wheel but that might be difficult as you already have holes in the wheel.
On my car you can't get the studs out easily on the front without removing the ABS sensor rings first.
How much too long are the studs ?
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Last Edit: Apr 7, 2016 16:20:47 GMT by steveg
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
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the studs are about 3, maybe 4 mm too long. I have to say, I don't massively fancy swapping all the studs. I don't think it's the sort of thing that could be done very easily in situ. Especially it'd be a lot of work if the wheels then don't fit, and it's one of those things where it's so close that the only way to really find out for sure is to fit them and see if they rub.
Maybe an angle grinder to the studs might be the way forward, then if they're too short for the old wheels I can swap them if necessary...
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BT
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,772
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The positive of having flat backed wheels is they can be re-drilled. Thought I'd mention it.
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,565
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I found a couple of nuts with the same thread, wound them on and locked them at the right length, then hacksawed the extra bit off and filed them down to the top of the nut. Take one nut off and chamfer the end of the thread and deburr.
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£45-£60 though!
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Last Edit: Apr 7, 2016 20:37:38 GMT by joem83
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,565
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I like that, you can get a similar sort of thing for sharpening the points on spot welding electrodes. Nobody in the videos seems to be able to hold the drill straight though !
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
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I can't see why drilling/grinding the wheels would be a issue. It's close to the centre so won't affect balance and shouldn't compromise strength with a recess the size you say.
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,565
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You could move the holes a bit using a dremmel. Unless you have access to a pillar drill you can only really open the holes out bigger or possibly countersink them enough to clear. Trying to drill offset holes by hand or with a pillar drill isn't going to be easy. You could use a slot drill in a pillar drill if you clamp everything down properly.
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Pocketing wheel mounting faces?fr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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I guess the other PCD on the wheel is 4x108 for ford.
I think I would end up selling the adaptors and buying 25mm ones instead - I've never gone less than 25mm on cars with studs rather than bolts so I don't encounter the problems you're having.
If you'd rather not buy new adaptors or think that extra 5mm adaptor width would cause a problem then I think I would drill the back of the wheel 4mm deep where the studs protrude past the spacer. If anything this will just help the wheel to sit in the correct place better when you fit the wheels.
A lot of it is down to how much you like / want to keep the wheels rather than just selling them on and buying some in the right PCD.
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ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,117
Club RR Member Number: 134
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just chop it with the nut well down the thread then back the nut off, the loosening should straighten ou tthe threads from the chop. Never had a problem rethreading using this method.
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Can't you get wheel nuts with open ends? Sorry about the straightforward reply - on my phone haha
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Pocketing wheel mounting faces?fr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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Can't you get wheel nuts with open ends? Sorry about the straightforward reply - on my phone haha The protruding studs are where the adaptors are bolted on though so it's the solid wheel base that is hitting the studs. |
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BT
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,772
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Try to stick with me here...
