Carlos
Part of things
Posts: 551
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Just looking back at my old threads and the last time I posted in here was when I had a 309 Goodwood a few years back. In the end that got replaced with a 205 Gentry converted to GTi spec. I was just getting ready install a GTi6 engine to this when my current car popped up for sale. It was near enough the 205 I'd always wanted, so the Gentry was promptly sold and I picked up this old girl...     So, it started life as a 1.6 GTi, but over the years has evolved to the following spec: 2.0 16v S16 engine with lumpy cam and Jenvey throttle bodies Emerald ECU GTi6 exhaust manifold and stainless exhaust 1.6 gearbox with quick shift kit and TransX LSD Gaz coilovers, eccentric mounts, rose-jointed wishbones and upper/lower strut braces up front 309 rear beam (wider track) and Gaz dampers at the back GTi6 front brakes Although the engine is the slightly less desirable iron block S16 lump, it's pushing out about 200bhp compared to the original cars 115bhp!  It's rattly, it's loud but I love it! The engine just revs and revs and revs, but it's still surprisingly civilised at low speeds. And I've never driven a FWD car with a LSD before - it certainly makes a massive difference. When you're pushing hard and expect to have to wind on slightly more lock to battle the understeer suddenly it's pulling you in to the corner without any hint of fuss. Feels a bit strange at first (probably exacerbated by lack of PAS) but getting used to it now. Unfortunately I haven't used it as much as I liked since I bought it in October, but I'm planning to rectify this over the coming months. So last week I went to take the car to work but gave up half a mile from home because of a major misfire. With any sort of load the car just spluttered and went no where. So much for my plan of using it a bit more! Whipped the plugs out to discover this:  Black plugs = fuelling issues. This was a home built car (approx 10 years ago) so I wasn't looking forward to trying to diagnose this and also work out what parts were required, as a lot aren't standard. So after reading the Emerald ECU manual I went out armed with a multimeter and laptop to try and figure out what's going on. Basics first - checked injectors and coil were getting power, checked the resistance of the temp sensor, put some new plugs in, cleaned up the coil earthing points and tried again with laptop connected to watch the what the ECU was doing. Had to dig out the ECU first though:  To my surprise it started straight away and seemed to feel a bit smoother. Let it warm up, and all seemed normal. Took it out for a drive and it was perfect, if anything better than before. Phew! Live ECU readings after the run:  I'm still learning about this, but very interesting to see how the maps are built. Fairly simplistic, but obviously you need the skill/knowledge to know how to set them up. Need to work out why the voltage reading is so low too - there was 13.8 volts at the battery! With that just about sorted I got a few other odd jobs done. Firstly the drivers door seal was hanging off, so that got swapped out for a spare I picked up a few months back. At some point in the past the car had a some extra in car entertainment accessories. None of this was connected, but there was wiring everywhere so decided to strip all the unnecessary bits out. Definitely a few weight reduction bonus points for this:  Also made a couple of subtle interior mods. Not sure if they'll stay long term yet though  I'm also trying to mount the ECU properly as it's currently just wedged into a cubby hole in the lower dash, but I'd prefer a slightly neater solution. I've attack some of the lower dash with a dremel, and hopefully I'll get that finished off shortly. Then we'll wait and see what goes wrong next  |
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Carl
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1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 2.0 16v
2004 Volvo V50 T5
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Love this.
Looks like an awesome little car, and has definitely had some time and money spent on it!
Always fancied a 205 gti, ever since a friend of mine had a lovely standard red 1.9...
Looking forward to seeing this progress.
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You already know my thoughts on this - looked very good for the money and I was very tempted by it myself!  Assuming that it's still fitted, you should be able to mount the Emerald on the old ECU mounting bracket under the dash and refit all the plastics without needing to chop anything - looks completely standard then and is how I did the last Emerald install for a friend of mine. From memory, I fed the loom through the hole in the steering column support bracket - a little fiddly if you've big hands, but keeps it out of the way and means it comes out in the correct place to mount the ECU in the same place as the original. And yes, a plate diff makes a massive difference - not as civilised as something like a Quaife in "normal" use, but far more effective in operation when driving it in anger. |
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1990 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1991 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 16v // 1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1999 Peugeot 306 Meridian HDi Estate
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Padz
Part of things
Personal Plates ftw
Posts: 394
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Looks brilliant, i should really dig mine out of the garage and sell it onto somebody to get some use out of it
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 "I'd rather lie in a bath of my own excrement than own a Vectra " - 2002gimp 25/1/07 "Anal Alert would be an absolutely superb name for piles cream " - Hirst 28/1/08 1991 - Peugeot 205 GTI 1996 - Rover Mini Cooper |
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Carlos
Part of things
Posts: 551
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Thanks guys! Long term I would like to mount the ECU where the original went, but there's currently a birds nest of wires in the way as a result of the Emerald conversion and the alarm/immobiliser. This is also stopping me mounting it upright in the little cubby hole, but it fits quite nicely into the bottom, so this will have to do for now. It will be a bit neater and will allow me to connect the laptop up without taking the lower trim panel off. After a bit of Googling I managed to dig this out from when the car was originally mapped at Emerald. Interesting to see how it compares to the standard Mi16:  |
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Carl
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1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 2.0 16v
2004 Volvo V50 T5
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Nice car you've got there, love the 205, we run the 1.9 Ali mi16, cannot beat it. What's the plan for future upgrades? I've got loads of knowledge that we've learnt over the years
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stevietuck
Posted a lot
Never argue with idiots,they drag you down to their level then beat you with their expertise!
Posts: 1,348
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Nice car mate. I love my 205, but she is a wee bit slow! I bet yours isn't  |
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simes
Part of things
Posts: 734
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Nice, very similar set up to me except mines an mi16.
My emerald ECU is mounted under my dash as per OE. If you're on drivers check my build thread.
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Last Edit: Mar 5, 2016 15:40:12 GMT by simes
Simes
205Mi16 - 262 cams, Jenvey Throttle Bodies, Emerald managment blah blah......
E91 320D MSport
Honda NC30
Vespa 300GTS
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Carlos
Part of things
Posts: 551
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Nope, certainly not slow Cheers Simes, will check out your thread. Future upgrades will be limited for now. TBH I'm not sure what else I'd want to do with the car. But there is some tidying up to be done, off the top of my head: - Get all the locks working with one key (got a lock set ready to go) - Get the remote central locking working - Fix front washers - Repaint cam cover (and replace all the seals whilst I'm there) - Refurb alloys - Refurb or replace squeaky heater blower motor - Make new back plate for air filter - Tidy engine bay (generally not into this sort of thing, but wanna show the engine off ) - Sort bonnet alignment (issue caused by air filter) - Redesign slam panel and rad mountings with a slightly neater solution - Tidy up wiring (including mounting ECU is standard location) - Source replacement seats as current ones showing some wear I think that's just about everything for now, but I'm sure the list will grow. But nothing is needed immediately, so it'll gradually get done when time allows (i.e. slowly!!) |
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Carl
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1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 2.0 16v
2004 Volvo V50 T5
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stevietuck
Posted a lot
Never argue with idiots,they drag you down to their level then beat you with their expertise!
Posts: 1,348
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Have you joined the 205gtidrivers forum?
Its really good for how to guides and the like.
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Carlos
Part of things
Posts: 551
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Yeah I'm on there, it's been a great source of parts for my last few cars!!
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Carl
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1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 2.0 16v
2004 Volvo V50 T5
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Lovely looking motor and I bet it goes well. My old 1.9 gti is the one car I wish I hadn't sold, have to make do with running around in a diesel 309 nowadays. I'll be keeping an eye on this |
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Carlos
Part of things
Posts: 551
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Mar 27, 2016 21:41:44 GMT
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Thought I'd try and get some of the easy things ticked off the list, so first up - windscreen washers. This should have been fairly easy as I only needed to change the washer pump, but I also decided to make a start on cleaning up the engine bay. First up was to remove and refurb the washer bottle. Before:  After lots of scrubbing and dishwashing (whilst the wife was out):  Much better! That left me with a hole in the engine bay (battery also removed to aid access):  Time to get the Jizer out!  After an hour or so of cleaning things are looking a bit better:  Still some work to do, but it's looking a bit more presentable. Also cleaned up the earthing points whilst I was there, and I'll also clean up the battery tray before reassembly. Over the course of this week I'll try and get the rest of the engine bay a bit cleaner (whilst also checking for rust). In the last few days I also acquired these:  They're not perfect, but as they come up for sale so infrequently I thought I better have them. Current plan is to make a good set of seats from the 2 sets I currently have. Will require some swapping of covers, which will be a PITA but ultimately worth it. In the meantime I'll still keep my eye out for a good set just in case some more come up! |
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Last Edit: Mar 27, 2016 21:46:13 GMT by Carlos
Carl
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1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 2.0 16v
2004 Volvo V50 T5
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Mar 27, 2016 21:53:22 GMT
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a i want one of them cars , when i was in my late teens classsssssssssssssssssss love it
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Carlos
Part of things
Posts: 551
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Apr 29, 2016 22:29:05 GMT
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So after quite a few hours cleaning I finally got the engine bay looking a bit more respectable:  Certainly not perfect, but at least you can see the paintwork now! Next I thought I better give the car a service. 5 litres of fully synthetic plus an oil filter was purchased from ECP for the princely sum of £18 and I thought it'd be a quick 20 minute job. Not quite! The radiator is mounted lower to allow air to flow straight into the throttle bodies, but this means the only way to get the filter out is to remove the front of the car:  Not the end of the world, just a handful of 10mm bolts and a little bit more time. So oil drained, filters swapped and started putting the oil in. 4.5 litres later and did the obligatory look under the car to check for leaks and to my surprise there's a stream of oil coming out. Oh dear. Sump plug ok, filter ok, oil filler pipe not OK! So more of the car was taken off to eventually get to this:  Luckily there was enough slack in the pipe just to cut the bottom off and reattach. It feels quite weak, but I'll source some new pipe to replace it at a later date. Not quite as easy as I had thought but the oil change was done! I also had the opportunity to have a nose round the cooling system as I'd noticed a couple of drops of coolant on the garage floor after a run. Found one suspect pipe and some tell tell residue marks on the end tank of the radiator. Obviously needs to be addressed, so might take this opportunity to rethink the cooling system - maybe a shortened rad rather than the just lowering the standard one. Need to do some research! |
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Carl
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1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 2.0 16v
2004 Volvo V50 T5
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Carlos
Part of things
Posts: 551
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Jun 11, 2016 22:02:52 GMT
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Had a great drive out to Goodwood after my last post, but the drive home highlighted a weakness I had feared... we don't like sitting in traffic! I nervously watched the temp gauge get higher and higher on the A27 past Chichester. Similar issues were seen on a drive through the New Forest a week or 2 later, so thought I better do something about it. When you're on the move the temp is rock steady, so I decided the current rad is the right size, just needed some work on the slow speed/stationary cooling. So, the plan is to renew the rad as it's showing signs of leakage, give the cooling system a good checkover and also fit a second cooling fan. As I mentioned earlier the radiator as been lowered to allow the throttle bodies to breath, however the fan is still in it's standard position (as the cowling doubles as a slam panel and grille mount and cant be moved down) so it's only blowing over about 2/3 of the rad. Fortunately there's a space for a second fan, so I'm hoping this will help in the short term. In the long term I'd like to cut out the lower crossmember, remove the slam panel and make up a bespoke front end. Finally found some time to get to work. With the slam panel, grille, fan and rad removed access to the engine is great improved!  You also can see the lowered radiator mounts. Nothing special, just some right angle aluminium bolted to the lower cross member - normally the rad would sit in mounts on the fan cowling, which you can see on my spare one below (right hand side):  My cowling has these cut off, as obviously they're not needed and would be in the way. I'll swap a fan over, to save butchering another cowling, and then it will be wired into a simple switch in the cabin so I can turn it on when required. I can do some data logging with the laptop connected to the ECU to check the impact of both fans on coolant temperature. Elsewhere I thought I better check thermostat whilst everything was apart, and potentially look for a lower temp version to aid cooling. Well I won't be doing that, as it already has a 72 degree one in there. Some quick Googling reveals that this is what Skip Brown Cars recommend for this conversion, so I'll stick with that. Played with a new toy just to make sure it was working OK:  And it's all good, so no problem there. Final thing to check was a leak somewhere at the bottom end of the cooling system, which had been causing a small puddle on the garage floor. I knew the rad was leaking, but also suspected one of the pipes coming off it. When I took it apart it became obvious why:  A pipe from the oil heat exchanger fitted on this little adapter. The pipe is 15mm and the adapter 10mm, so a short piece of 10mm pipe had been fitted to take up the slack. And this was weeping coolant. As the cooling system is not standard a ready made replacement pipe/adapter is not available, so after a bit of head scratching and Googling I came up with this:  Old version pictured for reference. Yes, it's a bit blingy, but it'll screw into the rad (M22x1.5 to AN10 adapter) and then give me something for the heat exchanger pipe to connect to directly (AN10 to 15mm barbed tail 90 degree pipe). Result! Hopefully it'll all be back together this week, and I'll have a reliable cooling system for the rest of the summer! |
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Carl
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1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 2.0 16v
2004 Volvo V50 T5
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