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A friend of mine has a 1947 ford pop which has been given the rot rod treatment, it's been shortened, wide rear arches with jag back axle etc. It has come to the point in his build that the wiring has to be done and because I'm an sparky to trade I've been roped in, the trouble is I wire houses for a living lol.
He has bought a 12 way wiring loom from a company called brands hatch that's got a relay and flasher unit built in. What I would like to know is do I need to make a separate loom up for the lights as there doesnt seem to be any provision for them and I was given the impression it was a complete loom.
Thanks for reading if anybody has any advice on how to get started it would be greatly appreciated.
If anybody has Facebook the pop in question it can be found on perthshire retro cars
Sent from my SM-T230 using proboards
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Why not just strip the loom out of another car and make it fit? I made the front half loom from a Mini fit a Mk2 Escort once. It was dodgy but everything worked.
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These 12 circuits looms should not be that hard to figure out. If comparing to a house, think of it as pre-wired to the breaker panel; all you have to do is decide where and how you want to mount the breaker panel run the wires to the right "room" as indicated on the wire.
Description from the website below:
Really easy to install and has 2 spare circuits with relay positions, I use these when I run engine management to keep everything nice and neat.
Uses high quality wire which are 2.8M in length. Every wire is labelled every 600mm to make install easier.
Also comes with a small 14 way fuse box that can be mounted pretty much anywhere in the car.
Includes:
12 Fused Circuits / 2 Spare(For ECU?)
14 Circuits total
12 Pre-wired Terminals
Labelled Wire
Colour Coded
Flame Resistant Fibre Wire Jacket
Fuse Cover with 3 Spare Fuses
Built in Flasher
Built in Relay
Extra Wire
Plug n Play Technology
High Quality Flame Resistant Wire
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Last Edit: Feb 3, 2016 13:02:04 GMT by bjornagn
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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 Loads of vw have this fused bus bar on top of the battery giving you several fused supplies so stuff like alternator etc has protection . I used a 12 way kit on my last build but my new car has two small 10 way boxes with one having all the ignition switched stuff on one and permanent on the other box . The only circuit that isn't fused is the starter but I'm adding a big mega fuse at the battery end so it's all covered . If it's an American kit like painless the wiring is well up to not having relays so it's pretty straight forward but a distribution board on the battery is worth looking at to protect the feeds to the main fuse box |
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Many decades back, in the 1960'2 and 70's Peugeot wires did not only come in colours, but were also numbered on the isolation. Was so easy to trace anything!
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1986 Mercedes 200 (W124) (Standard and daily)
1976 Peugeot 404 1800 Stickshift (Standard - awaiting complete resto, engine done)
1984 Ford Cortina (P100) LDV - Cab and chassis restored, interior and glass not fitted, brand new 3 liter engine (last 110kw Sierra XR6 engine fitted and married to 5 speed Toyota Gearbox), load body needed.
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