haggis
Part of things
Posts: 459
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I've tried welding a few times but i failed miserably cause i bought the wrong stuff. I also didnt appreciate how important it was for both surfaces to be clean / shiny metal I bought a Snap On / Cebora 130 mig years ago to have a play with and gave up pretty quickly due to every moving part in the stupid thing needing replaced! It was quickly sold on along with a brand new esab helmet that i could see naff all out of! I always have to get a friend or pay somebody to weld for me and now that I live an hour away from most of the people i know maybe its time to try again. Anyway, I suppose some more info is required to choose the right thing I would like to spend around £300 I don't want second hand cause it'll probably break like the last one I would like to weld general body work up to around standard box section. Also, gas or no gas? I want your thoughts. I was always told no gas is curse word however I've heard that if youve got the correct wire for the job it works fine. I also don't like the idea of relying on the little bottles. When i had the snap on welder i think the bottle lasted about 3 welds! www.machinemart.co.uk/p/mig130en-turbo-no-gas-mig-welder/How about this one?
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Last Edit: Dec 16, 2015 9:10:29 GMT by roccoguy
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Agree with the above. My mate and I spent a lot of time welding up his old Mini, he graduated from a small cheap welder with disposable gas bottles, to a rental bottle of Argoshield Light quite quickly and then later a bigger welder. The disposable bottles are completely useless. I haven't done enough gasless MIG to comment on that.
The gas is the thing that stops me from buying a welder, as I would need to do enough welding to justify the annual bottle rental fee ($120). I don't have a rusty project car, so I've never needed to do that much welding.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Dec 16, 2015 10:40:34 GMT
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I bought an old Clarke welder on here for £40, added a cylinder of pub gas and it's fine for what I need. If you're willing to be patient you may get a better welder for your budget 2nd hand.
Pub gas isn't brilliant and if can go for the proper stuff then do so. It will make like much easier to learn with.
The critical thing is to get a welder that will allow you to adjust the amps and wire flow to find the setting that works for you. Also make sure you can control the gas flow accurately. Those self-tinting masks make a huge difference.
You need a good earth, clean metal, don't use cheap extension leads (if possible plug directly into the power supply), decent quality wire.
I started out practising on bits of scrap which is totally different from welding on a car body. I found welding on the bodywork was much easier than messing about with bits of scrap metal, even brand new sheet metal. So see if you can scrounge a wing or something from a scrappies to practice on.
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93fxdl
Posted a lot
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Posts: 2,000
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Dec 16, 2015 14:02:31 GMT
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The start point I would suggest is, evening classes to learn to weld properly, then you can start looking for equipment, Ttfn Glenn
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Dec 17, 2015 13:58:38 GMT
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See if you can pick up a second hand portamig.
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1970 Porsche 911E 2002 Porsche Boxster S 2002 Peugeot Partner 1.9sdi
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haggis
Part of things
Posts: 459
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Dec 17, 2015 19:46:15 GMT
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Great feedback guys. I'm definately sold on the clark 160. I know machine mart do vat free days on clark stuff every couple of months so i'll just wait for one of those! The start point I would suggest is, evening classes to learn to weld properly, then you can start looking for equipment, Ttfn Glenn I would love to go to night classes however my work makes sure i am away for 2 weeks of every month. I will however look for an intensive course.
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Dec 17, 2015 19:52:02 GMT
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Dec 17, 2015 23:22:08 GMT
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Iain
Part of things
Posts: 351
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I've had great success teaching myself to weld with a Clarke 151TE.
I would personally not buy second hand if you have £300 to spend, or you'll forever be wondering if parts are worn out or in need of replacing, whereas brand new you'll know it's all down to your abilities. Just my opinion though.
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Dec 20, 2015 10:12:32 GMT
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I went for the 135TE from machine mart, i had 400 amp migs at work to use along with tig and gas plants but with a "reactolite" type mask and practice the 135 has done everything i wanted so the 160 will be spot on for you. I found the best way to get a large bottle is to go for a rent free one (they advertise in Practical classics mag), then you only pay for the refills and not for having the bottle sitting there and paying for it every month.
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Dec 20, 2015 19:19:10 GMT
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there are now companies that will sell you a bottle of gas,the way it works is, you buy the bottle, have no rental fee but refills are more expensive. they usually advertise in classic car mags. wire wise if you can make sure the welder takes big rolls that weigh 15kg makes it easier, less changing of rolls. if doing car welding and box section upto 3mm wall i would say 0.6mm wire.
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haggis
Part of things
Posts: 459
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I'm on nightshift so i had to send my girlfreind for the VAT free machine mart day
Unfortunately the machine mart dude said that the 160 clarke machine requires to be hard wired with a converter and the 135 turbo is the biggest that plugs into the house.
It says on machine marts website that the 160tm "Operates from 230V, 1 phase power supply" so I'm pretty confused about the converter part.
surely a converter is for a 3 phase supply
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I think they might mean you need a supply on 16 amp instead of 13 like you have to your cooker i think . Ive heard that mentioned a lot in the past - i suppose it will heat up your wiring nicely otheriwse and trip out all the time . Can some one more elctrickery elaborate dodgerover ?
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My understanding is that it needs a 16Amp feed, could be hard wired but more likely through a radially connected 16A Commando plug & socket otherwise known as a IEC60309. This feed would be straight from the distribution board ("fuse box") of the house. Or it could use cooker wiring if you don't use that feed. In other words not a normal 13Amp socket as that would be on a ring main.
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lewis
Part of things
Posts: 82
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I bought a 135 TE from machine mart to learn with and have been really happy with it. I learned by welding the inner sill and welding on a repair panel on my MX5, results were good.
I also don't understand the stick the disposable bottles get, I done loads of odd jobs before my first little bottle of C02 run out and they cost about 12 quid? Certainly don't want to rent a massive bottle I won't even use just doing the odd bit of welding on my own car.
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Last Edit: Jan 3, 2016 21:01:10 GMT by lewis
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I think the disposables are just basically bad value - i think they basically hold f/a gas due to them not being high pressure [ they are only thin ] , thus you do actually get much better value with a bottle , say if you have to do your sills .
A typical bottle will only hold 110 litres which at what ever people weld at 4-5-6 litres or whatever is not long really
Thats my understanding of it anyway
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I'm on nightshift so i had to send my girlfreind for the VAT free machine mart day Unfortunately the machine mart dude said that the 160 clarke machine requires to be hard wired with a converter and the 135 turbo is the biggest that plugs into the house. It says on machine marts website that the 160tm "Operates from 230V, 1 phase power supply" so I'm pretty confused about the converter part. surely a converter is for a 3 phase supply I run my Clarke 160tm off of a normal socket and 13amp fuse with no issues, have done for about 2 years. The reason I bought this particular machine was because the user's on the mig welding forums said it was one of the most powerful machines that you could run off a normal socket.
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I'm not a sparky but my experience says: I have no idea what they mean by a convertor, unless they thought you had 3 phase but then the rest doesn't make sense. Depending on how your garage power is arranged you more than likely would safely get away with running it on a normal 13amp plug, you aren't going to be pulling massive amounts of power continually so as long as the socket is on a 30amp ring main and not a spur there's little chance of overloading the wiring. It might blow the fuse in the plug on high settings however. It's unlikely to trip out anything on the fuse box. In an ideal world you would have a dedicated feed from the fuse box to a blue 16amp supply socket and plug in there. In the real world this will almost always mean you will end up with a long extention lead to get to the other side of the car which may cause you problems of its own...
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I'm not a sparky but my experience says: I have no idea what they mean by a convertor, unless they thought you had 3 phase but then the rest doesn't make sense. Depending on how your garage power is arranged you more than likely would safely get away with running it on a normal 13amp plug, you aren't going to be pulling massive amounts of power continually so as long as the socket is on a 30amp ring main and not a spur there's little chance of overloading the wiring. It might blow the fuse in the plug on high settings however. It's unlikely to trip out anything on the fuse box. In an ideal world you would have a dedicated feed from the fuse box to a blue 16amp supply socket and plug in there. In the real world this will almost always mean you will end up with a long extention lead to get to the other side of the car which may cause you problems of its own... I do power as part of the day job & you are basically bang on. Also the MIG will only be drawing full power when welding thick ,etals & at the top of its range.
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