Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,516
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I'm running Megajolt ignition with second hand Ford EDIS bits and am occasionally getting intermittent misfiring. It is definitely ignition related (not carb) as the rev counter pings about the place when it happens. Any idea as to likely causes? It'll be fine sometimes and then do it at other times.
I initially thought it might just be damp leads or something but it was happening on the way home today (after about an hour of being perefectly fine, sitting in traffic etc) when all was hot and definitely dry. Any ideas as to likely causes? Do the coilpacks break down up and cause this sort of symptom?
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable. |
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scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
Club RR Member Number: 8
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Yes coil packs can give a misfire but another cause is a loose or dirty crank pickup?
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Midas
Part of things
Posts: 505
Club RR Member Number: 14
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Did you use new plugs on the EDIS and coil? I had similar problems caused by a dry joint on the coil plug that I initially grafted on.
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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IME if it's affecting the rev counter it will be pre coil pack, IE the eddis or the CPS ?
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R.I.P photobucket
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,516
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Ok, Thanks for the replies.  I'll go over the connections on the crank sensor and the EDIS unit as they've been in situ for quite a while without being interfered with so perhaps are not making good contact somewhere. Its just odd how it comes and goes. I knew I should have engineered a belt driven distributor  |
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Last Edit: Nov 8, 2015 21:25:48 GMT by Seth
Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,516
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Nov 10, 2015 13:15:44 GMT
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Nov 11, 2015 22:40:59 GMT
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Reliability is the one. It is not to say cheaper sensors will not work but IME they have been variable at best. I'd personally go genuine or for a switch from a recognised manufacturer if you have to.
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Bougicord from Ecp have been reliable and I try to get this brand if oe ones are not readily available or stupidly priced . Intermotor seem pretty poor
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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don't get me started on Shittermotor.
There are others but I shall report at another time.
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Nov 12, 2015 11:43:23 GMT
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Manufacturers do seem to have sharpened their pencils in the last few years with prices , the big ones have price matched oe spec stuff from Ecp and other factors quite a bit .
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Nathan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,627
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Nov 12, 2015 11:53:18 GMT
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Edit looks like you found it.
I always go for OE if I can.
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Last Edit: Nov 12, 2015 11:55:10 GMT by Nathan
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Nov 12, 2015 18:35:32 GMT
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Manufacturers do seem to have sharpened their pencils in the last few years with prices , the big ones have price matched oe spec stuff from Ecp and other factors quite a bit . In some cases ECP cost more . An ABS sensor for my 106 was cheaper from Pug than it was from GSF. Consdering I bought a wheel bearing from GSF with a duff sensor in it (and the palava in returning it) you can guess which I went with. Porsche parts were similar. OK, on a few things they were cheaper but then Porsche do offer a 2 year warranty on parts as do VAG, bar their uber polluting cars . However, things get awkward when badge engineering enters the game. I have seen ECP do this with Lemforder stuff which is annoying to say the least (they also price it as being slightly more expensive in such cases, say £50 vs £45 for a pattern part). OTOH when the customer wants to pay the least amount possible what can be expected? Make no mistake I don't go out to get everything from a dealer but these days it is nice to simply fit something once and that's it. If nothing else, we're saving a fortune on labour anyway... |
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Nov 13, 2015 16:38:38 GMT
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I've got one of those Intermotor ones on my Vitesse and it's done well. Fitted it in desperation when I had a mishap with the OE scrapyard escapee I had been using. I carry an OE spare but haven't needed it so far (over 8 years) - perhaps I've been lucky!
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Nov 13, 2015 20:54:39 GMT
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TBH the odd Intermotor part has served me well. But for that one time I can quote a few times it has not worked out (which I shall ). -VW Beetle - the Rotor arm (Intermotor item) was intermittent. To Quote a "Nuns and Kittens' incident the car decided it would die completely during rush hour right in the middle of a slip road joining a main dual carriageway. For those wondering it was the slip road of where the A46 joined London Road in Coventry. Not a great place for a car to die at 5:30pm. At the time I knew no better and screamed at the car dying where it did where I simply left the keys in the car and stood at the side of the road amazed that the car had not been rear ended. It was close to being hit many times mind you. I botched the rotor arm with a coat hanger (bypassing the resistor) where the car ran better than it ever had for years and it finally became reliable. No one until that point suspected the rotor arm since the ignition parts were all new. I only checked the arm on a multimeter out of pure chance. - hoopsontoast 's Dolly Sprint : With Intermotor bits (Cap definitely) his car never ran right and it cost his car the reputation of getting you anywhere. With the remanufactured bits it ran far far better. -Sister's and a friend's Mondeo 2.0: Both had a misfire at 1500rpm under load with a backfire on occasion, not great for moving in a hurry from junctions or for destroying a plastic manifold known for having a inlet manifold flap weakness. My sister sold her Mondeo with the fault, but a friend of mine went to a Ford coilpack with genuine leads. Sure it cost him almost £200 but for the first time it actually drove from junctions safely without spluttering and backfiring to oblivion. To quote him 'it droved like a completely different car' even at 200k miles. I will admit that in the Escort the Intermotor bits were OK but it does run smoother and start better on the BERU/Motorcraft (NOS) on this occasion. However, the old parts were a couple of years old with the car not seeing many miles on the road. As Einstein said, stupidity is repeating history again yet expecting a different outcome. I did that for far too many years and to a degree I still do due to my tight nature :lol:. |
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Last Edit: Nov 13, 2015 20:59:06 GMT by ChasR
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