mad
Part of things
Posts: 126
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Sept 4, 2015 10:18:44 GMT
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The rust on my Mk1 has got to a point where it can no longer be ignored. I've owned it for 5 years and its finally time to attend to the body. Its always been a rolling project but with plans for a zetec I was no longer happy with the overall strength so took the plunge and stripped it. This was the car when i brought it in 2000 I was 20 at the time and cut my teeth on cars with it. I got it looking like this with a 1600 xflow Roll on a few more years and projects its time to do the car some justice and put it back to factory. Some of you may have seen my thread where i was weighing up what to do as it needs so many panels. I decided to get the shell blasted to see what i was up against. So after a nail biting week i collected the shell and thankfully it wasn't any worse than excepted. Bare in mind I didn't have high expectations The place i used was call Airblast in Gosfield, Essex. It cost £350 to do all the floors, tubs and engine bay. Not sure if this is a good deal or not but the guy there was very approachable and helpful. Would recommend. As you can see the shell has had a few patches in the past. They are absolutely everywhere! My brother has a spit i can use and i have done a fair bit of welding on minis and the likes so although this is a massive project i think its worth it. My plan is for a whole new floor, middle chassis rails. Most of the front and all the rear bottom along with patches where needed. My plan of attack was to do the floor first. I don't know whether to do the floor or chassis rails first as it all needs replacing and don't want to cut to much out in one go. Also because it has been patched so much over the past i don't know what the original should look like so thats another issue. Eventually it will have a 2l Zetec with the RX8 box and a few other basic upgrades just to get it driving nice. All comments welcome and any advice will be gratefully recieved.
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coruas
Part of things
Posts: 156
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Sept 4, 2015 10:33:54 GMT
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I love the Escort MK1. One of my favorite Fords! Good luck with the build!
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Sept 4, 2015 10:54:10 GMT
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No advice of any use whatsoever, but the very best of luck anyway.
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Sept 4, 2015 13:29:54 GMT
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There are any amount of escort resto threads on the net. Here, oldskoolford, turbosport etc where you can see how they come apart and go back together. There are also charts which detail the critical measurements you need to stick to. A good idea though is to brace the hell out of the shell before you cut. Good luck with it
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luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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Sept 4, 2015 20:50:33 GMT
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Looks like a hell of a project, you're a lot braver than me that's for sure. Like the sound of the Zetec, is the RX8 box the new thing to fit. Keep thinking about upgrading our Mk2 but kind of like the originality of the Pinto. I'll be watching this with interest.
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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Sept 5, 2015 10:26:34 GMT
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I'm no master welder, but holy mother of bodged jobs them patches look rough! I need to sort the rust on my Capri soon, so I'm keen to see how you tackle this project. Looking forward to seeing what happens with the Zetec ideas too. Bookmarked!
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andy-v
Part of things
i like cookies :D
Posts: 358
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Sept 5, 2015 11:07:07 GMT
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seen a lot worse than this, and put back on the road. as @quickrack1 has said, plenty of info on them forums. good luck with the resto, will also be watching this.
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andy-v
Part of things
i like cookies :D
Posts: 358
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Sept 5, 2015 11:10:30 GMT
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also how have ya owned it for 5 years, when ya bought in 2000
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Last Edit: Sept 5, 2015 11:11:32 GMT by andy-v
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andy-v
Part of things
i like cookies :D
Posts: 358
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Sept 5, 2015 11:49:17 GMT
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just noticed this on turbosport
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Sept 5, 2015 11:57:26 GMT
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Ive got the escort restortioon manual haines/ kim henson which is quite good for help . I expect most of it will have been documented on turbosport etc anyway .
Just remember to tack stuff in place first so you know everything else fits around it [ front panels , wings , bonnet etc ] .
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mad
Part of things
Posts: 126
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Sept 5, 2015 12:22:52 GMT
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Hi,
I meant to write 2010 and yeah already got a thread on Turbosport.The 6 speed mazda/zetec combo seems to be the latest thing to do, a lot of kit cars are trying them. Plan to get it running on megasquirt once i have tackled the mammoth task of the body work.
I'm going to brace the all the door gaps and openings before i cut anything. I'll keep the photos rolling once i get going.
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Sept 5, 2015 14:53:25 GMT
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That's not really too horrendous- the blasting has given you a good view of what needs doing- looks like you've got a mostly sound place to begin fixing up, surrounded by a few bodged rusty bits, of which now large section repair panels are widely available.
350 quid to do all that isn't half bad tbh
Good luck, get stuck in!
--Phil
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Sept 5, 2015 16:01:25 GMT
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I would go for whats not fashionable at the moment ! Todays fad means you will get pinto bits cheaper !
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Sept 5, 2015 20:58:30 GMT
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doesn't look to be in too bad shape, just needs those welds tidying up =), should be a good project =)
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Only dogs go for new cars, real cars have rust!
Ford capri laser 1.6 -http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/181032/1986-ford-capri-laser-updates
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blower
Part of things
Never mix Cider and Red Wine , Thats 1 of my Life Lessons . J.C.
Posts: 252
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Sept 5, 2015 21:18:00 GMT
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Well done on saving another 1 , looking forward to the grinda-thon
The thing is with these old fords at the mo , when yav spent ya mortgage money on em
they still return a better % than a small house , crazy really
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mad
Part of things
Posts: 126
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Sept 17, 2015 16:15:47 GMT
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Been putting it off but i finally got the courage to start cutting. First cut is always the deepest. Pretty sure this part is only suppose to be one sheet thick mmmmm...... So first question. I didn't realise that this part of the chassis rail is double skinned and looking at it from outside you can see where it has bowed out And it has also bowed on the inside suggesting that there is a big pocket of rust inside. Also there is several other parts along the chassis rail where one or other skin has rotted through I reckon the other side is going to be worse so do you reckon i should replace the front whole chassis rails? If so shall i just cut the whole lot off and replace it all at the same time or should i slowly work my way round keeping as many reference points as possible? My thinking is that its all probably moved over the years anyway so not going to gain anything from the reference points as they have probably moved anyway.
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Sept 17, 2015 17:48:12 GMT
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My opinion after looking at the photos is ....cut. I say buy everything incl the chassis rails forward of the bulkhead. It might be a tad expensive but its all there is between your legs, and the muppets without brake lights or indicators!
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blower
Part of things
Never mix Cider and Red Wine , Thats 1 of my Life Lessons . J.C.
Posts: 252
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Sept 17, 2015 22:02:24 GMT
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In the good old days , they would just get patched up with a patch , cheap fix
The metal back in the 1970s was a cheap alternative to cardboard
Roll forward 10 - 20 - 30 years , and the patch work has swelled with water ingress
Replace what you can with new
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mad
Part of things
Posts: 126
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Sept 20, 2015 15:08:25 GMT
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So continuing on with the front i have made up a jig that locates the front chassis rails at the crossmember. Before i lop the whole lot off i have taken a load of measurements to triangulate the rails so hopefully they will go back in square. Is there anything else worth doing? In the mean time i thought i would have a look at getting the drivers A post sorted. So peeling back the patches No my problem is i don't know what this is suppose to look like as its been mess with so much. Can i cut all that out leaving just the hinge panel? Do i need to brace anything here or since there is still lot of metal in the bulkhead and floor can i leave it?
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Sept 20, 2015 15:29:43 GMT
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Go online and look at hadrians panels or magnum panels , something like that and it will have a exploded diagram which will help .
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