tdipd
Part of things
Posts: 121 
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Feb 28, 2015 21:24:38 GMT
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I'm considering soda blasting the underside of a car, but I've never painted the under side before, so actually don't know the order!
so once its bare metal i think its
etch prime
seam sealer
high build primer
Colour
Stone chip? (is there such a thing as clear stonechip?)
Or do you just use black stonechip, and put that straight over the primer?
Should seam sealer come before or after the etch prime?
I persume if you use clear coat that'll all just chip off.
Any recommendation on brands and products to use as well?
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Seam sealer can go before or after primrer.
Personally I just do the primer, then seam sealer, then I just use black stonechip/underseal.
I do this for a living, that's the method I prefer
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I use wurth sealant, but any would do. Can't remember what make underseal, stay away from wurth underseal. And don't get 'wax underbody protection' it never dries properly, washes away and also melts near the exhaust
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I did back to the body, seam sealer, stonechip, body colour then clear waxoyl. Can be seen in my '1986 chelsea' thread!
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v8
Part of things
Posts: 302
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v8 - that looks better than mint.
Is it possible to achieve somewhere near this but with the car up on a lift - or should the car be stripped completely?
(i'm a noob but wondering how I can protect the underside of my new retroride whilst only having a driveway workspace and possibly renting time/space in a garage unit with a lift)
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Fungus
Part of things
Posts: 960
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Doesn't quite compare to v8's Sierra but I used this method; Bare metal Etch primer Seam sealer Gravitex (UPOL's stonechip) Body colour Came out pretty good  I'm planning to use Dinitrol 1000 (clear wax) over the top. |
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v8
Part of things
Posts: 302
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v8 - that looks better than mint. Is it possible to achieve somewhere near this but with the car up on a lift - or should the car be stripped completely? (i'm a noob but wondering how I can protect the underside of my new retroride whilst only having a driveway workspace and possibly renting time/space in a garage unit with a lift) It would not be easy, but it is possible. You would be better off concentrating on one small manageable area at a time, I had the luxury of a spit and still had to do it in sections - I'm not good enough with a spray gun to do it all in one go! You can go straight onto bare steel with the epoxy mastic chassis paint if you like, it is a PITA to rub down though... |
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Last Edit: Mar 1, 2015 16:16:18 GMT by v8
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fungus - that finish also looks very tidy. I see you have that on extended jack stands. Did you do all that work set up like that?
v8 - thanks for the tip. Will split it into sections. Probably each quarter area.
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Fungus
Part of things
Posts: 960
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Yep, did it all up on stands with the suspension off. I only did the boot floor and inner arches.
Now that the suspension is fitted I'm going to jack it up on suspension points and do the floor (after masking everything up)
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tdipd
Part of things
Posts: 121
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Cheers Guys, those shots look great. How does the finished colour hold up to stone chips etc?
My car is Mercedes 199 blue/Black, which is a metallic colour and quite expensive, i'll like just end up going for a base gloss black on the underside. Single pack be grand?
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I don't know if sodablasting will be aggressive enough to get it to bare metal. Factory seam sealer and undercoating can be very tough and the blasting media will just bounce off. You'd probably need to remove most of it by hand (grinder etc) and finish up with the blaster.
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Iain
Part of things
Posts: 351
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I went with: POR15 black paint over whole underside UPOL seam sealer Dusting of primer 3M Stonechip Dusting of primer 2pack paint mixed up with no thinners and brushed on Pretty pleased with the result, it's held up well over 3+ years, although it remarkably less white and a pig to clean so don't bother:   |
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Last Edit: Mar 6, 2015 13:49:06 GMT by Iain
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I am mid way through this at the moment myself.
Strip (B&D powerfile has done most of the work)
Zinc rich primer
Epoxy primer
Tiger seal as seam sealer
Dinitrol stone-chip
I would always say seam sealer after primer if there is any existing rust, as a zinc primer needs to be in contact to offer any protection.
It has taken ages to strip back all areas while on axle stands with axle, prop suspension still on. Stripped on a spit would be a dream...
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