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I currently have about six of those flourescent lights in my garage with two halogen spot lights if I want more lighting.
It's light enough in the open, but working an engine bay, it is too dark and the spot lights just cast shadows (or rather cast white light everywhere but the place I want to see) and blind me in the process.
Is there any cheap alternative to get decent dispersive light (kind've like working outdoors in sunlight)? I understand why this is tricky as like bounces from all directions like a light globe.
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The most economical way to go is just to install lots more flouro tubes! I work in automotive manufacturing, and I can tell you that all the production lines I've been to are generally lit from the sides and top by lots of fluoro tubes. Put in as many as you can, have them run continuously end-to-end and space them about 1.5 metres apart and you should be good!  If it's good enough for Ferrari...  * Please note that these are not my photos! Unfortunately, we don't build Ferrari in South Australia!  |
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Nov 13, 2014 11:55:20 GMT
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Hi, as waveman 1500 says, supermarkets do the same. Put fluorescent lights end to end down the length of the area at the junction of the wall and ceiling, if there are shelves put them level with the front of the shelves. Any extras do the same down the middle and the front end, over the bench have it/them just over head height and about 12" from the front of the bench. Try on ebay for job lots where people are stripping out buildings, I managed to get my last lot as a set of 30 6ft ones for just over £80. My previous workshop was fitted out with 8ft ones from work where they were stripping out some of the retail area. If you want to buy new although 8fts seem best because you don't need so many, they can be a bit expensive. The best ones for length/cost are 6ft. Also use "daylight" tubes.
Hope this helps.
Colin
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Properly lighting a garagefr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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Nov 13, 2014 12:46:53 GMT
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I guess the main problem with shadows over the engine bay is because you're leaning over the bonnet so ideally you'd need tubes on the walls just above the height of the tops of front wings - although if you work on different height cars you might need to fix them to sliding brackets?!
Or you could get worklights on adjustable tripods
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Properly lighting a garagesowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Nov 13, 2014 14:44:56 GMT
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As others have said, lots and lots of striplights, and paint any free wallspace white, ceiling too if you can.
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Nov 13, 2014 17:49:51 GMT
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I have ok lighting in the garage but for most jobs I find I am working in a shadow so I just wear a head torch. For a £12 investment, I think it worth a try. If it's not enough for you, then go to the hassle of fitting other lights, but you still have a useful head torch anyway.
Try the ones from Alpkit.
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,637
Club RR Member Number: 225
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Properly lighting a garageChrisT
@christ
Club Retro Rides Member 225
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Nov 13, 2014 18:32:45 GMT
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I'd agree with sowen about painting the place white, it really brightens a garage up, helping reflect the light about.
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Nov 13, 2014 19:40:40 GMT
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ive got 4, 2 tube fluorescent lights on the 4 post, main advantage is i have put three strong magnets on the backside of all the lights, so when i am in need of light i detach the light from the 4 post en stick it where i want to. There has to be a fair amount of cable in between the lights to shift around with them, but this has worked for me for a long time now.  |
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Nov 13, 2014 21:51:07 GMT
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Wall are already white!
I don't pay electricity on my place so I can light it up as much as possible. I don't really want it -too- bright as those lights give me headaches after a while!
Will try and get more strip lights though. Thanks
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Wearing sunglasses will stop the headaches.
(sorry)
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There are different types of tubes. I fitted just one of the alternatives and it made a massive difference. www.lamptech.co.uk/Documents/FL%20Colours.htmYou probably currently have warm white whereas cool white might be more suitable for a garage |
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Nov 24, 2014 12:37:54 GMT
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Tubes go yellower over time, new fluorescent tubes are nearly pure white!
I've bought a few of those halogen security lights (the ones in the metal casing) and every one I have (new, old, ones I have bought new, ones that are second hand) have popped, taking the circuit breaker with it. I have six altogether, they're only used one at a time, and they just blow everytime I switch them on (or after a few minutes). WTF?
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Nov 24, 2014 15:22:05 GMT
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Hi, are you sure they are 240v? They sound like they might be 110v building site lights to be used with a transformer. Circuit breakers can trip when something blows because they are reacting to sudden change in voltage or current flow.
Colin
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Nov 24, 2014 18:04:02 GMT
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Its been cold in the morning mate, I think its the extra thermal shock that does for them as it seems to be a problem mainly once it get frosty, - It happens on site all the time, its loads of fun fumbling round in the pitch black on an early morning trying to change bulbs.
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Nov 24, 2014 18:45:18 GMT
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We've got a few of those metal security type worklights at the unit. One on a tripod stand and another on a small floor stand with handle. The downsides of them are A] costly to run (not an issue for you). B] Kick out masses of heat which can be great in winter, but stupendously hot all other times. C] Fragile bulbs, just look at them and they blow...let alone knock one over. D] Expensive to replace bulbs. They are, however, great because they give a lovely flood of bright light and can me moved around easily. The solution? Buy some of these, they are amazing! Tough, cheap to buy, no fragile bulbs to burst, no having to spend out replacing bulbs...and no heat. Just lots and lots of good light. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20W-30W-50W-LED-SMD-Flood-Light-Outdoor-Warm-Day-White-Garden-Lamp-IP65-/261243994398?pt=UK_Garden_Lighting&var=&hash=item3cd35b011eI've been using one on photography shoots and it's been invaluable. The light output is superb and despite being thrown around in the back of cars and dropped a few times, it just keeps working. Proved great for the odd intensive weekend of welding too. With that in mind, I'll be ordering a few of them to replace the heads of the halogen lights at the unit...keeping the bases/handles/tripod. Highly recommended. |
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Nov 24, 2014 23:10:11 GMT
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We've got a few of those metal security type worklights at the unit. One on a tripod stand and another on a small floor stand with handle. The downsides of them are A] costly to run (not an issue for you). B] Kick out masses of heat which can be great in winter, but stupendously hot all other times. C] Fragile bulbs, just look at them and they blow...let alone knock one over. D] Expensive to replace bulbs. They are, however, great because they give a lovely flood of bright light and can me moved around easily. The solution? Buy some of these, they are amazing! Tough, cheap to buy, no fragile bulbs to burst, no having to spend out replacing bulbs...and no heat. Just lots and lots of good light. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20W-30W-50W-LED-SMD-Flood-Light-Outdoor-Warm-Day-White-Garden-Lamp-IP65-/261243994398?pt=UK_Garden_Lighting&var=&hash=item3cd35b011eI've been using one on photography shoots and it's been invaluable. The light output is superb and despite being thrown around in the back of cars and dropped a few times, it just keeps working. Proved great for the odd intensive weekend of welding too. With that in mind, I'll be ordering a few of them to replace the heads of the halogen lights at the unit...keeping the bases/handles/tripod. Highly recommended. Wow, those look ace, I also have the free standing ones which go up to about 8 foot. The garage is perfect, it never gets cold and doesn't leak (especially with the security lights reddening whichever side of your face is nearest), it just needs to be lit better.  |
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Last Edit: Nov 24, 2014 23:11:19 GMT by DavidB
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