bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,901
Club RR Member Number: 71
|
|
Apr 28, 2014 23:23:46 GMT
|
I'm going to start this thread with a post from Blackpopracing Here's a quick guide for joining wires, first make sure wires are clean and strip back equal amounts of outer sheathing. Then push the two wires together making sure that they interlock well - this will splay the strands out. Note the two strands of wire on the vice - this is just taken from some heavier gauge wire and they are around 40mm long. Use the two strands of wire to bind the strands of your wires back together again as tight as you can. Then solder the wires together. Finally use heat shrink tube to finish off the joint - adhesive shrink is best as it seals properly but also strengthens the joint as it holds it together and is stiffer than non adhesive shrink. I've struggled with soldered joints for years and ^ that was a brilliant way of doing it and solves all my issues If people add their own tips or tricks maybe the thread could become as useful as the "Making Panels" Thread? Mods/Admin - Can we leave it in the general board for a while see how it grows - maybe bump it over to the useful section later? I've bookmarked it so I can find it again if it sinks without a trace
|
|
|
|
|
hairymel
Club Retro Rides Member
avatar by volksangyl
Posts: 1,081
Club RR Member Number: 207
|
|
Apr 28, 2014 23:49:51 GMT
|
make sure you put the heatshrink on the wire (but not near the area to be heated) before you make the soldered joint. i have made this mistake more times than i should have
|
|
Last Edit: Apr 28, 2014 23:51:04 GMT by hairymel
whats that burning smell?
oh curse word :-(
|
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2014 11:56:55 GMT
|
make sure you put the heatshrink on the wire (but not near the area to be heated) before you make the soldered joint. i have made this mistake more times than i should have Story of my life!
|
|
1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
|
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2014 12:16:56 GMT
|
make sure you put the heatshrink on the wire (but not near the area to be heated) before you make the soldered joint. i have made this mistake more times than i should have haha...wise words ....we've all done it
|
|
|
|
jonw
Part of things
Can open a Mouse with a File
Posts: 768
|
|
Apr 29, 2014 12:33:54 GMT
|
Many automotive plugs and sockets are based on standard crimp contacts. Rather than buying new sockets for a lot of ÂŁÂŁÂŁ pull them apart and replace the crimps.
|
|
Suzuki SV650R The good Triumph T20 The Bad BMW G650GS The Ugly Matchless G12CSR The Smokey Toyota Hybrid One pint or Two?
Ingredients of this post Spam Drunken Rambling of author Bad spelling Drunken ramblings of inner voices Occasional pointless comments Vile beef trimming they won't even use in stock cubes
|
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2014 14:37:45 GMT
|
If people add their own tips or tricks maybe the thread could become as useful as the "Making Panels" Thread? Potentially more useful. I can't be the only one who's terrified of metalwork and welding but happy to have a go at things like wiring, though not always with brilliant results. The opening tip has already made the whole thread a win. I saw Edd China (divisive figure but I have genuinely learned by watching him over the years) using the interlocking wires method but they didn't show how to deal with the splaying wires. My first few attempts at this were awful. I don't have pics to hand but I have a few of these in-line fuse holders wired up with croc-clips for extra piece of mind when I'm doing something on a car or bike I need to use to get home. Saves embarrasing phone calls to my special lady friend.... I usually find somewhere to unhook a wire and clip this on in-line. Used them more on bikes than cars to be honest but they were really handy when I discovered the non-standard wiring colours behind the stereo of one of the W124s.
|
|
Last Edit: Apr 29, 2014 14:54:37 GMT by Battles
|
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2014 14:45:04 GMT
|
Many automotive plugs and sockets are based on standard crimp contacts. Rather than buying new sockets for a lot of ÂŁÂŁÂŁ pull them apart and replace the crimps. ^^^ this Invest in a 'de-pin' tool so that you can extract the crimps cleany. Makes joining wires a thing of the past if you can replace the the whole wire. or at least move the join away from the plug
|
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2014 14:52:05 GMT
|
is it just me that doesnt struggle to solder wires together then? never ever seen anyone doing whats going on in the pics
|
|
91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
|
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2014 15:23:01 GMT
|
Spiral binding is the correct way of proper joints for cables. There is a proper wire for doing this as well, but the method I have shown above is fine.
Another tip for wiring (especially if wiring a car from scratch) is to use a low output battery charger (trickle charger) to test any circuits. Theses have the 12v required to test the circuit, but such low amperage that if you short it you won't burn any cables out or damage anything.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2014 21:33:58 GMT
|
Many automotive plugs and sockets are based on standard crimp contacts. Rather than buying new sockets for a lot of ÂŁÂŁÂŁ pull them apart and replace the crimps. ^^^ this Invest in a 'de-pin' tool so that you can extract the crimps cleany. Makes joining wires a thing of the past if you can replace the the whole wire. or at least move the join away from the plug Never heard of a de-pin tool but often use a tiny flat-blade screwdriver from a cheap-n-nasty toolkit to prise the barbs off the pins to dismantle the plug. If you've never been inside of multi-plug, have a look here blog.machanon.net/2010/05/19/180/
|
|
Last Edit: Apr 30, 2014 21:53:17 GMT by nomad
|
|
|
thooms
Part of things
Posts: 96
|
|
Apr 29, 2014 23:10:05 GMT
|
If you're buying solder, leaded is absolutely the way to go!
Don't let them fob you off with the lead-free / RoHS stuff...it's much less forgiving.
For automotive stuff, you want a reasonably chunky iron - a little 16W PCB iron with a pointy tip makes things much more difficult. Bigger tips hold a lot more heat, you can make the joint much more quickly and stand a much better chance of not melting the insulation.
|
|
1991 Saab 900S Aero 1992 Fiat Panda 1000CLX 1981 Fiat 238 / Laika MP6
|
|
|
|
|
I've tried using a soldering iron and TBH I did get usable results. it was a pain to do and I didn't get as clean a result I do now.
Now I just use a tiny blow torch, something like a chefs blow torch, so much easier.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If you're buying solder, leaded is absolutely the way to go! Don't let them fob you off with the lead-free / RoHS stuff...it's much less forgiving. Oh yes! absolutely!! forgot that one. Also NEVER use acid based flux on any electrical soldering - it will continue to eat into the cables - that lovely green 'fluff' on your solder joint.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
As an electrician the above method is fine to use but it can often make the wire quite bulky which if you've got to pull through grommets etc can be awkward or even impossible. The neatest way IMO is to twist both ends individually, "tin" the end of the "bit" , heat the wire then simply touch the solder onto it. It should run neatly down and coat the wire. Do this to both ends, rest them ontop of each other, quickly heat it and pull the iron off the second they melt together. This way the cable, even once heat shrunk appears pretty much the same diameter as the original. Another top tip is to use the solder from the reel rather than melting off a smallish piece to do the job, this honestly makes it a lot easier, you can even use the reel as a "third hand" for awkward jobs.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I knoiw the basics of soldering - but I never got the grip on it. But; I found a way to join cables easy & neatly, in situ (I always felt like missing at least 2 hands when joining cables). www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solder-Heatshrink-Butt-Splice-Terminal-Connectors-Auto-Electrical-1mm-6-0mm-/221323072330You could still bind the cables as shown above. But you just need to heat them with a heat gun or lighter and it solders, shrink wraps and glues (pull relief) the cables together. The main problem with these is that they'r rather expensive... Cheers, Jan
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I knoiw the basics of soldering - but I never got the grip on it. But; I found a way to join cables easy & neatly, in situ (I always felt like missing at least 2 hands when joining cables). www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solder-Heatshrink-Butt-Splice-Terminal-Connectors-Auto-Electrical-1mm-6-0mm-/221323072330You could still bind the cables as shown above. But you just need to heat them with a heat gun or lighter and it solders, shrink wraps and glues (pull relief) the cables together. The main problem with these is that they'r rather expensive... Cheers, Jan Clever that but as said a bit pricey!!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hi Jan, I respectfully disagree, my way keeps the wires the same diameter as original, whereas the way you suggest creates a bit of a z in the wires where they are laid on top of each other. Splicing as I have shown keeps both cables in line and only the heatshrink increases the cable diameter.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Already many useful tips! Hope we'll see ideas on planning and making up project looms and sub looms, logic and safe routes (heat and damage), easy to use donor fuse boxes with maximum number of fuses to accommodate EVERYTHING inclusive of sound system components etc, stealth looms and what else is needed for security - alarms, fuel cut offs etc, calculating battery size, kill switches and/or in line battery cable fuses. Trip switches in stead of fuses, dash tell tale light for bulb failure - the list goes on! Thanks!
|
|
1986 Mercedes 200 (W124) (Standard and daily) 1976 Peugeot 404 1800 Stickshift (Standard - awaiting complete resto, engine done) 1984 Ford Cortina (P100) LDV - Cab and chassis restored, interior and glass not fitted, brand new 3 liter engine (last 110kw Sierra XR6 engine fitted and married to 5 speed Toyota Gearbox), load body needed.
|
|
thooms
Part of things
Posts: 96
|
|
Aug 26, 2014 21:21:41 GMT
|
Gravedigging a bit here, but thought this was rather cool. While I was attempting to make the electrical things work on the 900, I kept finding horrid black corroded wire, thusly: However! By the power vested in you by chemistry, you can dip them in vinegar for a while, which causes the corrosion to fizz off the wire after a couple of minutes... Leaving you with this. A hasty dip in some baking soda to neutralise the acid can be a good idea. It's not a complete cure - these still wouldn't solder that well (in the end I decided they were too far gone and just replaced the lot), but could be worth a try before getting too agressive...and it's quite cool, which is the main thing.
|
|
1991 Saab 900S Aero 1992 Fiat Panda 1000CLX 1981 Fiat 238 / Laika MP6
|
|