edwell
Part of things
Posts: 199
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Thought this might be of interest in here, especially as I intend to use it for a few car related tasks. This is my home built 3d printer, a RepRap Prusa i3 to be exact. Check out reprap.org for more info on repraps etc Bit of a closer view It has been a lot of fun to build and set up, but has taken up ALL of my spare time for the last two weeks Here is a close up of some of the more successful and useful part I have printed so far. As for car related Items, this weekend if it stops raining at some point, I'm going to measure up the centre caps off my alloys (2.8i pepperpotts) and design and print up a new set as I only have one genuine one and the 3 copies don't fit very well. Ultimately I'm going to try and print an inlet manifold for my throttle body conversion. I already have some nylon filament (which is petrol resistant and has a high melting point as well as being very tough) for this, but I need to get the machine calibrated well first. For an idea of what people are doing with their 3d printers check out thingiverse. there are already some Peugeot 205 related bits on there 205 searchI will post my progress on here if anyone seems interested, I really think these will start to get popular soon and certainly more usefull. And questions feel free to ask.
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gazjon
Part of things
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Always wanted to get into 3d printing but the ones I've seen are big money. How much do you think your setup has cost you in total?
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Mk2 Cavalier saloon Mk4 Astra Van z20let
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edwell
Part of things
Posts: 199
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Always wanted to get into 3d printing but the ones I've seen are big money. How much do you think your setup has cost you in total? About £350 excluding the filament (the material you print with). I'm sure with a bit of shopping around you could have one up and running for under £300 easily.
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This is awesome and I can't wait to see more about this.
When I was teaching (D&T) I had a laser cutter at my disposal which was ace and the school had invested a massive amount of money in a 3D printer just around the time I left (it cost around £25k). It was impressive, but SO costly to run (unlike the laser cutter) so seemed to be one of those machines that would probably end up gathering dust through the short sightedness of not allowing kids to have fun with it due to budget limitations (why buy it in the first place was my argument?). So much potential though...
They've come down a hell of a lot in price since then (around 2005) and I am starting to get tempted with buying/making one. The potential to make stuff is awesome, especially if you get into sand casting too to start making roper metal casts from the 3D printed shapes.
You build looks great and I'd love to see more details on how you built is as much as what you're making with it.
How much are the rolls of material these days? They were exortionate back in 2005 but I'd like to think they are a bit cheaper now?
Booknarked. I'd love to buidl and run one of these. I'd also LOVE to have a laser cutter too....one day, hopefully?
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Nathan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,626
Club RR Member Number: 1
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3D Printer (RepRap)Nathan
@bgtmidget7476
Club Retro Rides Member 1
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I just got into this, well I donated to the Kickstarter for one. Price wise that's amazing as mine cost me 3k and its the same size as that!!!
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randywanger_
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Nissan Bluebird P510 SSS Coupe
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Using your printer, can you make me one please?
"if you've got a RepRap - you can print lots of useful stuff, and you can print another RepRap for a friend..."
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gazjon
Part of things
Posts: 632
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There is some much possibility in this field, definitely could turn a profit if you know how
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Mk2 Cavalier saloon Mk4 Astra Van z20let
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Awesome!! Bookmarked so I can remember to read up on these groovy machines!!
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edwell
Part of things
Posts: 199
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You build looks great and I'd love to see more details on how you built is as much as what you're making with it. As there seems to be a fair bit of interest in the machine I will do a mini build thread below. How much are the rolls of material these days? They were exortionate back in 2005 but I'd like to think they are a bit cheaper now? Booknarked. I'd love to buidl and run one of these. I'd also LOVE to have a laser cutter too....one day, hopefully? The material isn't that much a 110M 1Kg role of the green ABS was £19, the nylon (1lb in weight) was £28 and the other two (premium ABS and PLA 1kg I think) were £26 You can also put a laser on a reprap as they are basically the same thing mechanically.
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edwell
Part of things
Posts: 199
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Using your printer, can you make me one please? "if you've got a RepRap - you can print lots of useful stuff, and you can print another RepRap for a friend..." Yes eventually, that is the idea after all that they are "Self replicating". all the black plastic parts on mine were printed by someone else. The reliability of mine isn't quite there yet though.
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Last Edit: Feb 7, 2014 19:44:46 GMT by edwell
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edwell
Part of things
Posts: 199
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Mini Build Thread Step 1: The Frame There are basically two different types of frame: Single plate and box. as the names suggest single plate frames are made from a single plate of some strong and stiff material, usually aluminium. Box frames are usually wood. I chose to make a box frame as I thought it would be cheaper and easier. You can buy laser cut frames of both types, but a laser cut alloy single plate frame is about £60. I used 12mm MDF. the plans are here Box frame plansI always think woodwork is easy, IF you have the right tools. I didn't have the right tools. Even so it is an easy thing to build being just 4 pieces. just make sure that the front face is square to the base otherwise you will print at an angle on the z axis. This is the only pic I took of the process Step 2: Rods You will need approx.: 1M M8 threaded rod. 1M M10 threaded rod. 1M M5 threaded rod. 3M 8mm plain rod (in some hard and stiff grade of steel). Cut to the lengths on the RepRap site (although I think the x-axis ones need to be longer than they say by 20mm). I used a 1mm cutting disk on the angle grinder, took about 5 mins. Step 3: Hobbed bolt The hobbed bolt is what feeds the filament into the hot end of the extruder. Its basically an M8 bolt with a knurled cut out section. Again you can buy one already hobbed but I wanted to do as much as possible myself. They are ideally made from one of those bolts where the part of the shank nearest the head is unthreaded. I couldn't wait to order some from screwfix (they din't have stock but could get some apparently) so I just bought a pack of two normal m8 bolts from Halfords. It needs to be about 50mm to 60mm long. If you had a lathe then the may well be an easy way to do this, but this is how I did it Put the bolt in the pillar drill and file a grove of about 4mm radius (after checking how far down the bolt it needs to be of course.) Then take bolt out of the drill and put M4 tap in the drill. Slide two 608 bearings onto the bolt. set drill to lowest speed and hold the grove we filed earlier against the spinning tap. it should rotate the bolt and cut a thread into the groove. (remember to lubricate). The finished article The teeth need to be nice and sharp and there needs to be no trace of the original thread left in the hobbed section othervise it will just rip the filament out of line. More later
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I've been trying to talk my boss into buying a 3d printer for a few years now . I work with 3d scanners to create 3d computer models of big things like rail stations and tunnels. might have a go at making my own printer now. thanks for the inspiration
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That’s pretty cheap! How about good quality 3D printing materials with reasonable price? This one is what I found so far--http://www.3d2print.net/shop/. My first order is about to arrive next week. I’m so excited to try the Nylon 618 filament for home furniture replacement. I don’t know that you can purchase 3D printer with filament for only £350, such a good steal.
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I'm currently in the process of accumulating parts to build a Prusa i3 so I'll keep my eye on this thread, any tips?
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
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edwell
Part of things
Posts: 199
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Jun 20, 2014 16:02:53 GMT
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I'm currently in the process of accumulating parts to build a Prusa i3 so I'll keep my eye on this thread, any tips? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Might be a bit late but. You need to get hold of precision ground 8mm steel for the rods. I initially got turned which isn't good enough. Use hairspray and or pritt stick to help prints adhere to the bed. you do need a heated bed If you can build it with auto levelling from the start do so as it means a lot less faffing around. follow a calibration guide I think there is one on the reprap wiki. don't aim for high speeds you will soon learn that getting it to print well is a lot more useful than getting it to print fast. Feel free to ask and specific questions, I will try to keep an eye on this thread.
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