niwid
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Dec 17, 2013 16:53:13 GMT
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This may be a bit premature, but Emmas 205 is playing up. The engine seems to run very well, but it's done 165k, and by the look of the oil that came out of it when we got it, it's not been maintained to the highest standards before our ownership. After replacing the radiator, thermostat, coolant, and flushing all the radweld out of the system, it's started overheating. A lot. I'm just wondering how long the pathetic little carbed 950cc motor has got left. If it's not dead this time, how long until it is?
I don't have a lot of knowledge about these cars, but I know that these TU series engines were used for several years in many other cars. My thoughts are turning to swapping the engine out for a a 1.1 single point injection unit from a 106, as it would probably be the same block (is it? I have no actual idea!) and would bolt straight in, still be good on fuel and be cheap to insure. I'm guessing that parts of the fuel system will have to be changed also.
So I'm after knowledge about these engines, which ones will fit? With how much work? Which engines are a better bet? etc.
Thanks in advance
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ChasR
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Posts: 10,198
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Dec 17, 2013 23:32:00 GMT
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Before you consider engine swaps, did you bleed the air out via the relevant bleed points? I know that on previous 205s, 106 and 306s I have worked on with XU and TU engines they tend to have bleeding points on the radiator, thermostat housing in some cases along with the heater matrix pipe (the matrix pipe IME is where the vast majority of the air seems to accumulate). My 106 GTi with a TU5J4 engine which used to come close to overheating (the PO forgot to mention this to me unsurprisinglyy...) even during the depths of winter was cured by simply bleeding it from the heater matrix bleed screw (as a bonus I gained a warm heater and an engine that was not trying to chuck out its coolant. The same mistake almost occurred on our 205 when my friends overlooked bleeding the cooling system (despite having the Haynes to hand (it details that well surprisingly)). If it has been bled, I apologise  . One thing I will say is to use some half decent antifreeze assuming it is a mixed metal engine . Regarding the oil I would be tempted to perform a few more oil changes over the year to try to slowly flush the rubbish out. The oil cannot be as bad as what came out of my Passat!. Regarding your original question Welshpug may be your man to ask . But changing bits over may still have an effect on your insurance even for a small cc increase. I would also consider buy a complete donor car (there must be a few 106/306 MOT failures for sale in running order  as the loom would be require, along with the ECU, fuel pump along with many other small bits. It is possible but possibly not easy (ECU may require unlocking unless you can circumvent the immobiliser issues another way (strapping the original key around the immobiliser sensor ring maybe?). If you were planning an engine swap I would look to a carb'd TU engine (be it 1.0 or the 1.4 variety:). As for the mileage my 205 is on 173k on its original engine. In that time I think it has had another head, but when lasted checked the compression values were good and within spec with it still holding good oil pressure . It is I admit a 2 owner car with a full Peugeot service history up to 120k after which it was owned by a motor factor manager who was the nephew of the first owner . |
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Last Edit: Dec 17, 2013 23:39:48 GMT by ChasR
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edwell
Part of things
Posts: 199
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Dec 18, 2013 11:44:02 GMT
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The 954cc (TU9) and the 1.1 (TU1) blocks are shorter than the 1.4 (TU3) and 1.6 (TU5). I think the TU9 and the TU1 are the same, and the TU3 and TU5 are the same. So if fitting a 3 or 5 you need the top mount from a 1.4 205 I think. Also 205 TU engines tend to be wet liner whereas newer 106s etc. aren't, I don't think it makes much difference apart from weight though.
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Last Edit: Dec 18, 2013 11:46:38 GMT by edwell
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edwell
Part of things
Posts: 199
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Dec 18, 2013 12:08:25 GMT
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There was also an injected TU9 205 called the 954i, which would probably be the easiest swap but finding one will be a problem
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niwid
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Dec 19, 2013 16:06:16 GMT
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Before you consider engine swaps, did you bleed the air out via the relevant bleed points? Damn it! I remember a friend saying something about bleeding the system on his Saxo, I should have looked it up. Is there a quick how to somewhere? |
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niwid
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,743
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Dec 19, 2013 16:07:23 GMT
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The 954cc (TU9) and the 1.1 (TU1) blocks are shorter than the 1.4 (TU3) and 1.6 (TU5). I think the TU9 and the TU1 are the same, and the TU3 and TU5 are the same. So if fitting a 3 or 5 you need the top mount from a 1.4 205 I think. Also 205 TU engines tend to be wet liner whereas newer 106s etc. aren't, I don't think it makes much difference apart from weight though. Thanks for that mate, that's really helpful. Were all the injected ones the same as the carbed ones? |
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ChasR
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Posts: 10,198
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Dec 19, 2013 21:41:24 GMT
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Before you consider engine swaps, did you bleed the air out via the relevant bleed points? Damn it! I remember a friend saying something about bleeding the system on his Saxo, I should have looked it up. Is there a quick how to somewhere? The Haynes details it well. Without looking at the car I cannot comment, but IIRC the official procedure is to: 1) Fill the cooling system to the max (I will fill (and keep it full) to the top of the cap opening here to avoid getting air in (some will put a makeshift bottle on top of the header tank here as a belt and braces measure)). On some 205s you can actually remove the header tank from its location and raise it for this very reason (on mine I can but have never had the need to). 2) In the following order open up the taps and close them when the air has been dispelled if there are bleed taps present: - Radiator (This IME tends to be either a screwdriver or one which can be opened with your fingers) - Thermostat housing (allen key: I would leave this if it feels too stiff) - Heater matrix (this tends to look like a tyre valve cap, or it needs a screwdriver). 3) Assuming the coolant level has not dropped too much (if it has you have to start from 1 again) refill to the max level and refit the coolant cap. I would also check the level for a week or so after if the air has not gone out. On the 205 mind you I have never had to top it up. This IME tends to do the job. As said in some situations I have only ever had to remove the matrix bleed cap which tends to be where all of the air collects. |
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Last Edit: Dec 19, 2013 21:44:13 GMT by ChasR
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You could get a 1.1 multi point engine out of the later 106's, you'd have to swap the pump as well, but the engine is reliable and economic
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. One thing I will say is to use some half decent antifreeze assuming it is a mixed metal engine 
as the loom would be require, along with the ECU, fuel pump along with many other small bits. It is possible but possibly not easy (ECU may require unlocking unless you can circumvent the immobiliser issues another way (strapping the original key around the immobiliser sensor ring maybe?).
