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Mar 24, 2007 19:10:44 GMT
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Right - Changed Pads of the alfa today in the pishing rain, round at pog towers. Got nice new Ferodo pads - alls a winner fitted in about 1hr for the left side - about 20 mins for tother. Found that afterwards the breaks were all spongy and even more rubbish than before - why? Suspension Q! I know the bits I have to replace, for the MOT - bottom suspension arm bush - see pic below. only the one on the passenger side is kettled - the parts are expensive - should i just do the broken one?
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Mar 24, 2007 19:32:43 GMT
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You'll need to bleed the brakes, if you haven't and it'll take some milage for the pads to bed in properly.
I'd change both bushes, if you can, because it'll make the suspension more accurate and true, rather than being unknown on one side and good on the other.
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Mar 24, 2007 20:36:59 GMT
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always change both bushes together -sods law says the one you don't will perish
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2001 HONDA CT110 (NOT RCV)
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Mar 24, 2007 20:57:12 GMT
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Its not as simple as that. you have to replace the whole assemby = big bucks
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Last Edit: Mar 24, 2007 20:58:59 GMT by Russell
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Mar 24, 2007 23:24:27 GMT
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:)The new pads will need to bed in and will feel "odd" till then. Does the pedal travel seem excessive?
Is it just the anti roll bar link bushes that need replacement?
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Mar 24, 2007 23:59:34 GMT
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don't hammer the new pads until they have bedded in either. What colours teh fluid in your master cylinder if its dirty brown/black drain and replace it and bleed the brakes it will make a big difference
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MaxN
Part of things
Posts: 482
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I am not sure I agree with the 'do not hammer' the brakes statement I was told that you are supposed to break them in fairly hard - Install new pads (swap fluid at the same time), then accelerate to 30mph and brake gently - do this three times, then on the fourth time stand on them. Then repeat this to 50MPH - 3x gentle/progressive stops, followed by a stand-on them. Let them cool and repeat this regime twice. Once you reach the third heavy brake you will be stopping hard than you have ever done. I believe that this will prevent glazed pads and is a real good way to burn of oil and grease that made it onto the pads when you swapped them. I am super-hard on brakes and get to change my brake pads every 12K miles, whenever I do I always do this, the only brake fade I experience on my MR2 is caused by fluid boiling on really hot days (120F or more), when I am belting around Willow. I use Hawk HPS pads for track and street duty, I tried the HP Plus pads once and they where utterly fantastic, but replacing the rotors with the pads is somewhat annoyingly expensive.
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Really? I was forced to change the pads on my 1850 in under 500 miles of driving
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If it is just the anti roll bar bush and you cant get them from Alfa seperately (Which I doubt), then Id have a look at Superflex website and just get some Taper seat bushes from them You have the drop link and the washers etc, just get a bush the right Diameter and bolt it all up Tester sees new bushes therefore happy They might even have replacement Bushes for the wishbones as well - probably cheaper than New wishbones too Seriously Russ, an alfa with sorted handling is an absolute Joy to drive.... car cost you nowt, do it the justice suspension wise that it deserves
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Last Edit: Mar 25, 2007 3:06:22 GMT by CR500Dom
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mrj
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,662
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the suspension parts are the same as the Fiat Tipo, Tempra, Bravo etc... i think the Fiat parts are much cheaper than the Alfa Romeo ones....
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- 1971 VW 1600 TL Fastback - 1978 Passat GLS Variant - 1980 Audi 100 5E - 1981 VW aircooled panel van (sold) - 1983 VW Jetta Mk.I - 1984 VW Polo Coupé - 1984 VW Passat hatchback - 1987 VW Passat Variant - 1987 VW Passat hatchback - 1988 VW T25
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I am not sure I agree with the 'do not hammer' the brakes statement I was told that you are supposed to break them in fairly hard - Install new pads (swap fluid at the same time), then accelerate to 30mph and brake gently - do this three times, then on the fourth time stand on them. Then repeat this to 50MPH - 3x gentle/progressive stops, followed by a stand-on them. Let them cool and repeat this regime twice. Once you reach the third heavy brake you will be stopping hard than you have ever done. I believe that this will prevent glazed pads and is a real good way to burn of oil and grease that made it onto the pads when you swapped them. I am super-hard on brakes and get to change my brake pads every 12K miles, whenever I do I always do this, the only brake fade I experience on my MR2 is caused by fluid boiling on really hot days (120F or more), when I am belting around Willow. I use Hawk HPS pads for track and street duty, I tried the HP Plus pads once and they where utterly fantastic, but replacing the rotors with the pads is somewhat annoyingly expensive. It maybe depends on pad material, and I know its not as important as with older asbestos materials. Any person I know who has driven their car hard with new pads has had a very short life, with poor brake performance. This has been with standard pads and kevlar pads. I remember once on a stage rally at otterburn we had put a set of kevlar pads in my brother in laws avenger and he had been told they needed no bedding in and would work better if used pretty hard from the start. They lasted 3 stages (20 mile) so they were replaced with a half used set of old mintex pads (pre-1144`s cant remember the code) which lasted teh rest of the day. Its very difficult to put a mileage on brake pads between different cars. My wife used to get 12K miles with her 306 diesel (3 months worth of driving) and she wasnt especially hard on the brakes. I have got nearly 20,000 mile out of the pads in my primera and I don't know how long they were in the car before I got it and I am pretty hard on the brakes. Have you got any pics of your MR2 cant remember seeing them. MK1 or MK2 style
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Mar 25, 2007 11:50:46 GMT
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Would this be enough - would it solve my issue? MODERN ALFA 145, 146 & 155 INCLUDING GTV, 4-96 ONWARDS, ALSO FIAT TIPO & TEMPRA SPF2266K Front Wishbone Kit; 4 Bushes, 2 Stainless Steel Stepped Tubes & 2 Stainless Steel Washers 1 only £80.00
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Last Edit: Mar 25, 2007 11:51:06 GMT by Russell
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Mar 25, 2007 11:53:01 GMT
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:)The new pads will need to bed in and will feel "odd" till then. Does the pedal travel seem excessive? Is it just the anti roll bar link bushes that need replacement? yes. Really spongy pedal - no feel don't hammer the new pads until they have bedded in either. What colours teh fluid in your master cylinder if its dirty brown/black drain and replace it and bleed the brakes it will make a big difference Fluid was clean - topped up with new dot 4
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,521
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Mar 25, 2007 12:26:36 GMT
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Would this be enough - would it solve my issue? MODERN ALFA 145, 146 & 155 INCLUDING GTV, 4-96 ONWARDS, ALSO FIAT TIPO & TEMPRA SPF2266K Front Wishbone Kit; 4 Bushes, 2 Stainless Steel Stepped Tubes & 2 Stainless Steel Washers 1 only £80.00 Now I have no idea exactly what kind of suspension the car has but I suspect that that kit is for where the lower wishbone mounts to the chassis/car whereas it looks like you need something for the anti-roll bar.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Mar 25, 2007 12:30:49 GMT
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any ideas? of replacement?
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Mar 25, 2007 15:00:17 GMT
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www.shop4parts.co.uk has bits really cheap, they sell the whole wishbone which should include the bushes
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paulw
Part of things
Posts: 216
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Mar 25, 2007 15:18:37 GMT
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found those pages I was on about hereand there's some stuff on bushes hereThis is where I got the idea that you could do it all with poly stuff. I would try and do it all as the anti-roll bar bushes only work when you're turning and it felt wobbly in a straight line and braking as well. Easy to say now I've moved it on to you now, I know
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Lotus Seven '58 Ford Special 64 Barracuda
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paulw
Part of things
Posts: 216
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Mar 25, 2007 15:22:48 GMT
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I should have used this for the ad
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Lotus Seven '58 Ford Special 64 Barracuda
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