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Aug 28, 2013 20:40:49 GMT
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I've just bought my first diesel its a peugeot 106 1.5. A real high miler (250k ). I didn't think about it at all when I was buying it. I thought I'd look up more on the internet about the old pug since I will be commuting just under a hundred miles a week and wanted to see what regular maintenance they needed. But I got distracted while on the internet...Very distracted, and not by the usual suspects (grown up stuff, e-mails,2facedbook), but by posters on a lot of forums saying "you know those 106 dervs'll run on veg oil". And there didn't seem a lot more info than that, but I did more research and I see "you'll need a bosch pump". Yup. I got one. But after that there's a lot of mixed info you get some saying "I just run veg oil all the time, I never put in diesel" to "50/50 veg/diesel will work or 1/3rd petrol to 2/3rd veg oil" to "veg oil will freeze in winter you need to heat it" and "you need two separate tanks and it has to be bio-diesel." Leaving me scratching my head thinking "is there any point? If I have to spend a load of money so I can run it on veg oil whats the point? and 5 litres of veg oil in Asda was £1.10 per l. About 27p less than diesel right now but if my engine dies then I haven't saved a penny! and I didnt plan on converting this old thing to bio deisel" So my questions to you from a confused 106 owner: "can I run it on vegetable oil?", "should I?" and "how do I do it?" Thanks for reading my waffling post!
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Last Edit: Aug 28, 2013 20:43:00 GMT by Deleted
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Aug 28, 2013 20:58:05 GMT
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I ran my 200k mile mk3 golf on 100% veg for about 1500 miles. It drove fine but was a bit more clacky when cold. however the veg oil made my diesel pump leak from the head seal - Apparently they all leak a bit oncee they have some miles under their belt, but diesel evaporates when it runs down the block so you don't notice. Veg oil makes the leak worse due to higher pressure and presumably affecting the seal, so it turned a barely noticeable "slight wiff" into a real issue leaving big puddles under the vehicle when parked and affecting economy.
I just got unlucky on that front, but if it wasn't for that I would have probably got bored of running on veg not long after (I put a new pump on and just switched back to dino)
On top of that, getting the stuff into the vehicle was a pain in the backside (even with the best funnel and perfect execution, you always end up with sploshes and dribbles all over the place), as was disposing of the containers since the local tip wouldn't take any more than one at a time, and my wheelie bin is always full.
To start off with I was all for it, I could get veg for just under £1 a liter from costco, but in the end the hassle of driving to get it, pouring it all down the side of the car when trying to funnel it in and the risk of upsetting my diesel pump again pretty much stopped it being worth the hassle to save about £18 every 500 miles.
If you have a rough old beast of a car, work at some kind of filthy mechanical place who have a big bin you can chuck any old stuff in and a greasy carpark you can slosh veg oil all over, and you pass costco on the way to work then it's a no brainer. Otherwise it's a lot like spending hours on the net to find the garage 15 miles away selling diesel 2p cheaper, and then getting a load all over your hands when filling up.
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Last Edit: Aug 28, 2013 21:08:42 GMT by cobblers
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rodney
Posted a lot
https://www.facebook.com/RD-vehicle-transport-and-recovery-services-525622614268010/
Posts: 1,677
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Aug 28, 2013 23:42:17 GMT
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for the hassle just put biodiesel from a local supplier in , my place is about 1.20 a liter , runs fine and lasts well,.
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facebook: rodney dean / rd transport
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In the summer you can run on 100% veg but in the winter you will want a mix of about 50% veg and 50% derv to help it start when it's cold.
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youll see 65 to 70 to the gallon out of it anyway, might not be worth the bother.
depending on what you paid for the car, there is a much better and cheaper option however...
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Last Edit: Aug 29, 2013 8:15:56 GMT by ax16vts
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I've done tens of thousands of miles running on veg oil and diesel mix in a variety vehicles. Only problem I ever had was with a Peugeot 205 that had already done over 200,000 miles with the CAV injector pump leaking and was a sub £5 fix for a new seal. This was when veg oil could be bought for under 50p litre. Now veg oil is only a few pence less than diesel from supermarkets I wouldn't bother. Ease off your right foot and drive carefully will get better mpg that far outweighs the few pence difference between veg oil and diesel.
Paul H
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In answer to your questions "can I run it on vegetable oil?" yes you can run it in your car without any modifications "should I?" If you want to save money on fuel bills yes "how do I do it?" just pour it into the fuel tank
I've used a lot of veg oil in lots of cars had Astra 1.7TD, pug 306td, corsa d, and old transit van 2.5di all ran veg oil and went better on it In warm weather 100% veg is fine, when it gets colder at nights 50/50 mix When its cold the veg gets a bit thicker and not only does the vehicle have to crank for a while to start the fuel pressure inside the pump is higher and can cause issues.
Yes the perfect solution is to have two tanks, one small one with diesel in which you start on and run for the first couple of minutes. Then you flick a switch to an electronic valve and that switches you to fuel from the main tank (veg) You also need to switch back to derv for the last couple of minutes each day to purge the filter and pump. That way its sat overnight with derv in it and will always start. This is the ideal solution but only really worth it if you're using a lot of veg and doing a lot of miles in a van, where there is room for it. The savings are worth it if you're doing a high enough mileage as it uses very little derv But in reality for most users its not worth the outlay to fit to a car unless you're doing a lot of mileage and can do the fitting yourself
If you are close to a Costco or other cash and carry it makes sense as veg oil is currently 86p/litre when bought in 20litre barrels compared to £1.40 ish for diesel So a 10gallon tank on derv is about £63 and on veg is £38, so a £25 saving per tank full. So as far as i'm concerned its well worth it to save 1/3rd off your fuel bill.
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In answer to your questions "can I run it on vegetable oil?" yes you can run it in your car without any modifications And this is not entirely true... SVO (straight vegetable oil) or WVO (waste vegetable oil) has a different viscosity than diesel (or biodiesel/ RME at that). SVO/WVO is less liquid, so to speak. The injection equipment is mechanical and injection timing etc. is based upon the viscosity of the liquid runing through the injection lines, the liquid's pressure to pop open the injection nozzles etc. Many people notice that the engine runs quieter on SVO/WVO. Which is a symptom of just that... If you alter the viscosity of the fuel, which you do so by using SVO/WVO, you need to tweak the injection equipment in accordance. Advanced timing, and higher pop-pressure for the injector nozzles is required to regain efficient burning of the fuel and regular operation of the engine. The engine will run without alterations, this is true. But it is a risk, unburnt oil may find it's way in the sump over time. And since SVO polymerisates it may cause damage. May! It's a risk, not a fact. Your decision. However, with the altered timing you can't run pure diesel anymore; or not for prolonged time. Early injection will cause excessive combustion heat and may damage the engine. It is however possible to find a "inbetween" tune that enables you to run both fuels, more or less good. Mixing of fuels. This is done to thin down the SVO/WVO to make it's viscosity similar to pure diesel. Which is required if it is cold anyway; SVO/WVO looses viscosity much eralyer than pure (summer) diesel. Simple indicator: store a bottle with some SVO/WVO outside and check how liquid it stays. Not all SVOs or WVOs are the same! Some stay liquid even with negative temperatures... Two-tank systems enable you to run pure SVO/WVO in winter, but the engine needs to start and SHUT OFF on pure diesel. Which in turn causes some milage on diesel and is considered economical only for long-ish distance drivers. It's basically a choice of how you use your car and how much you want to save/how much you'd liketo invest in runing SVO/WVO. Not more, and not less. Both ways work; either mix fuels or run two tanks. In summer it's not relevant, but if you use the car all year, it gets relevant. Waste vegetable oil. This is the stuff you can get for free with a bit of luck. But it comes with a price... The injection hardware is manufactured with 1/1000th mm tolerances. ANY dirt in the fuel will wear down the injection pump and nozzles, even if they are made by Bosch. It is therefore required to VERY carefully clean the WVO. By now it showed that simply filtering the oil to 1 micron is NOT sufficient. The current approach is centrifugal cleaning of the oil. This get's out ALMOST any polution. The filters in the car are by far not good enough, neither do they have the capacity required; they'll clog withhin a few miles if you just pour in untraeted WVO However; one problem remains with WVO; water and acids. They have a similar density to the oil and are mostly emulsified in the oil; resp. can't be separated easily. Cooking is in many cases not a 100% success. And water contents WILL damage the injection hardware! Even if it's make by Bosch. Many WVO users hoard injection pumps Thanks for reading, this was my view on using vegetable oils with diesel engines. Fueling up with 1l bottles from Lidl or Aldi is - a) time consuming, b) not as cheap as it used to be and c) produces a HUGE amount of plastic waste!! 60l fuel tank leaves you with 60 empty plastic bottles. Count 5 minutes for every bottle (to realy drain it empty)... Have fun with that! In the end, I decided it's not worth it... I'll continue to run on dinosour juice for now... Long story short: you CAN just burn SVO. But it's not the best way to do so, even if the whole internet does think so. Few have realy read they'r way into how exactelly diesel injection works...
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In answer to your questions "can I run it on vegetable oil?" yes you can run it in your car without any modifications And this is not entirely true... While i don't disagree with any of the techy things you've said (not least because i don't understand the science behind some of it) what i said is ENTIRELY true, his engine CAN run on svo The question was about the ability of the engine to run svo, not about any risks Yes there is a risk of damage to the engine (a very very small one in this case), but there's also a risk a meteor will drop on your head when you step outside. Life is all about the size of the risk and deciding to take it or not For relatively unstressed engines in good running order with no pre-existing issues, running svo when you have a bosch pump and doing relatively low mileage is unlikely to do any damage. If you're really concerned about it don't do it or run a 50/50 mix all the time On the other hand if you are running a highly modified TD engine that is putting out double or triple the original power then i wouldn't recommend running svo without adjusting the timing etc Same as the more modern common rail injection engines, they can't run svo I only ever run new veg oil, i buy it in plastic 20litre containers that when empty crush down flat and take up very little room in a bin bag I firmly believe some of the people on the internet who have run svo and then had issues with the engine, had issues with the engine before but hadn't actually looked at it. Others are from the science/engineering side and can baffle me with techy speak about why it won't work. But have never actually tried it themselves These people also say you shouldn't chop springs, paint cars from rattle cans/ with a roller, or put narrow tyres on wide rims
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See I did not disagree with your statement. But it's not just a matter of pouring some SVO in the fuel tank & it's done... To do it properly, there's some tweaks required. Yes, the engine can run it. And yes, it needs a new tune to run properly. And for this some tools are required few people posess, hence they just go on without any tweaks. Which in MY eyes (as I stated) is not the best approach on the veg-oil-burning-thing... But each to theyr own I guess. I'm just pointing out that there's more to it than first meets the eye. And whilst we're at it I felt like pointing out. And yes I have ried it myself. And I'm sort of involved in the "hardcore SVO fraction" The newest trend is to feed FAT (chicken fat, vegetable fat, cooking fat etc.) to those engines. And it works. But it's even more complicated... And the same statement is true: the engine will run on fat. But it's not a matter of just take a shovel and scoop that solid sh!t in the fuel tank... There's again a bit more to it (a LOT actually). I never said it won't work. I just said that there's a finer, a less redneck approach to it. No offense! That's all. And this is my final word in this thread.
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And yes I have ried it myself. And I'm sort of involved in the "hardcore SVO fraction" The newest trend is to feed FAT (chicken fat, vegetable fat, cooking fat etc.) to those engines. And it works. But it's even more complicated... And the same statement is true: the engine will run on fat. But it's not a matter of just take a shovel and scoop that solid sh!t in the fuel tank... There's again a bit more to it (a LOT actually). Goat industriies were doing that about 10? years ago with an old merc van, twin tanks one with a heating element + heated fuel lines etc that you shovelled the solid stuff into then change over once it got up to temperature/ viscosity. At the time it was mainly because nobody wanted the solid stuff.
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FACT? Saloon83 does 100 miles a week in a 60-70mpg car. So he will be paying circa 6 quid per week on Dino and possibly 4 quid a week on veg (70ppl, WVO). He will save apr 12 quid a month.
RISK If he is unlucky and works 5 days a week, he does a 20 mile round trip. So the chances of running the oil in his system warm is limited, the pump will be working HARD for about the first 2-3 miles each way or 30% of its duty.
WORTH IT ON BALANCE? Is this duty-cycle going to increase the chances of failure? Can he install a fuel heater and recover that money quickly enough on a high-miler? Fuel pump repairs can be expensive if he is not trained or capable in diesel wrenching - Diesel engineering can be a black art - can he self repair or get mates-rates? If the car fails, does he have another easy mode of transport?
I had to take these into account: I do 400-500 a week, I run a £800 1986 Mercedes 190D, I use straight WVO at 70ppl and 38-40mpg. I save about £25-30 a week, nearly £100 a month (apr 45l @ 136 vs 70 ppl) and have run it since this January. I have 2 other cars to use if this goes boopsy and has to go offroad for repairs.
Personally, I wouldnt touch WVO or SVO for your particular circs, unless its purely an academic interest.
Hope all this helps, I would be a VERY poor puppy if I had to depend on Dino. Thank God for Mr Diesel and his peanut oil!
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Colonelk
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,740
Club RR Member Number: 83
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Basically theres the "techically correct" way of doing it (fiddling with pumps, twin tanks etc see Diesel Weasel) and the "it'll work but it wont be optimum" way of doing it which is gradually increase veg amounts up to running 100% veg in summer. Some people go diesel veg mix in winter, I used to go 15% petrol 85% veg and it seemed to be ok most of the time. Only got caught out by fuel gelling once, limped to a petrol station, changed the fuel filter and put some more petrol in and she was sweet Only thing I will say is CARRY SPARE FUEL FILTERS. Veg cleans out all the gunk from the tank. Pump seals seems to be a luck thing. Ive never had a problem with them in the cavalier, but others have had big leaks. The choice is yours. You should be able to get SVO for £1/ltr without much effort. Pump diesel is £1.40 round here so still a decent saving. Go to a big cash and carry and you might find it a wee bit cheaper and in big 20ltr drums.
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Colonelk
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,740
Club RR Member Number: 83
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Chasesdragons also speaks sense /\
Also, don't use a fuel heater with an SVO / petrol mix
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Aug 30, 2013 16:36:28 GMT
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Thanks for the replies, got some good information on running oil, I think what I'm looking for is a balance of convenience/economy. I'm sure running a heater element with twin tanks works for some drivers, personally it's too inconvenient even if I saved money eventually.
For me it would be a mixture of diesel/SVO, there's not a costco as was suggested nearby but I'm sure somewhere sells large containers at low prices, I'm thinking starting off on a really small mix 1/4 SVO 3/4 diesel and see how it goes carrying a spare filter of course. if its good then I'll probably run it like that slowly increasing the veg.
But yeah a lot of good points made and in reality I've saved a fortune already on fuel, since I've just got this 106 diesel and before I was driving around in a standard Vauxhall Chevette which did about 25mpg, so hunting for even better fuel economy seems a bit greedy!
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m1keh
Part of things
Posts: 278
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Aug 30, 2013 17:01:23 GMT
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Using 50/50 in summer and 80/20 (Diesel:SVO) in winter in an old Audi 80 TDI, except when it's really cold, and then I don't put any veg oil in. 185k miles on the clock now.
New SVO bought from Costco in 20 litre barrels, and a hand pump bought from ebay with bit of radiator hose on the end, makes the filling operation a lot easier - faster and less spillage. The empty containers are a pain but you can get rid of them in communal bins one or two at a time. I reckon I'm saving £15-ish a tank and MPG is more or less the same. I tried a richer mix in the summer - about 75% SVO - but it was taking a lot of churning to start it - I figured that couldn't be doing the pump any good so didn't do it again.
I haven't advanced the timing but may tweak it into the more advanced end of the spec.
It's a £500 quid car so if the pump goes I'll decide whether to look for another pump or break the car and buy something else. The car had a 'fuel pump fault' when I bought it, so I reckon it'll go at some point.
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Last Edit: Aug 30, 2013 17:04:00 GMT by m1keh
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jomfun
Part of things
Posts: 214
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I'm running approx 65/35 dino/veg at the moment but as it turns colder I'll reduce the veg if it gets harder to start. It runs better on this veg mix than just on diesel. The engine sounds quieter and feels like its running smoother. I buy the oil from Tesco £10 for 2x 5l bottles but I intend to start buying filtered wvo at 75ppl from a guy in Leicestershire unless I can find a supply nearer.
The only problem Ive had is that before using veg I was getting biodiesel from the local bio maker. After the first tank it sprang a leak from a few of the diesel injector return pipes. As I understand it , as rubber gets old it gets brittle. Diesel in the pipe swells the rubber. The first tank of bio I used shrank the pipes and made them all crack. Was leaking in about 4 different places. Replacement pipe was about 6 quid from halfrauds. This rubber problem is the same thing that can happen to pump seals but once changed and you continue to use veg and diesel it shouldn't happen again.
The bio place is all legal and tax paid etc but at £1.30pl it's not much of a saving. I can't believe the gov charge full duty on bio. They should be doing everything they can to promote this as an industry in order to help reduce CO2 emissions and reduce dependency on fossil fuels.
I twin tanked my old mitsi rvr but was having probs with air getting in the pipes but with a slightly different design I think I'll be able to convert my a4 tdi without any problems. I reckon I can do the conversion for about 60 quid using manual lever valves instead of electronic ones
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MK2VR6
Posted a lot
Mk2 Golf GTi 90 Spec
Posts: 3,328
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Your 106 is a mega miler and if it were mine, I'd leave it well alone. For the sake of saving a few quid a month, I'd run it on what's it's been used to for the last 15-20 odd years. Why risk reliability? * * If the car is a plaything and you don't need it for daily duties, have a play around and see what happens
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I'm running approx 65/35 dino/veg at the moment but as it turns colder I'll reduce the veg if it gets harder to start. It runs better on this veg mix than just on diesel. The engine sounds quieter and feels like its running smoother. Its quieter and smoother as its running slightly retarded timing wise on the veg mix. You can advance it a bit on veg.
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Dave_Q
Part of things
Posts: 32
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If you have a local supplier that does biodiesel this is much better than running straight oil and can be nearly as cheap.
£1.05 a litre near me.
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