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Jul 24, 2013 12:08:09 GMT
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Jul 24, 2013 12:14:00 GMT
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Looks great, only question is, are you intending to somehow make the heads so the new "studs" pull up like 'normal' ones do (and if so how?), or are you going to drill and tap the hubs and screw the bar directly into the hub flange...?
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Jul 24, 2013 12:22:38 GMT
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Good, thanks or are you going to drill and tap the hubs and screw the bar directly into the hub flange...? This, really The hubs are already threaded, it's a fairly old trailer. the original studs are all screw-in I need to replace and make them a little longer Another question: is Locktite, or similar, suitable for securing the stud in the hub? Do i need to or will the wheel hold them?  The original studs have a 'stop' around 1cm from the base to tighten them up against, so i'm not sure Ta, |
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Jul 24, 2013 12:53:00 GMT
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Get some proper extended studs.
Wheel studs should be 10.9 high tensile or more.
Better to spend a few quid than risk cheap threaded bar failing and the potential consequences of a trailer without a wheel when, say, at speed, in heavy traffic, on motorway, on holiday etc
Take a wheel nut and over tighten on a proper stud - it will strip the wheel nut thread first. Do the same to threaded rod and the rod threads will fail quite quickly
Paul H
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,517
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Jul 24, 2013 12:59:18 GMT
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I really don't think you should use that stuff.
If your existing hubs are tapped 3/8UNF and you can't find new proper threaded studs then why not drill them out to accept proper press in 7/16 studs?
Edit:
On second thoughts even proper press in 3/8UNF studs probably get pushed into a hole larger than 3/8s and you're much more likely to be able to find push in studs of the correct length.
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Last Edit: Jul 24, 2013 13:01:45 GMT by Seth
Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable. |
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Jul 24, 2013 14:20:46 GMT
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Thanks, This is the hub in question   I'm not even sure how to remove the drum! |
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Jul 24, 2013 14:45:33 GMT
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Looks like you have to back off the brake adjuster then remove the nub nut and take the whole lot off for access.
paul h
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Jul 24, 2013 17:17:51 GMT
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if the car is never to move off axle stands - the threaded rod would be fine
If you intend on even letting the car sit on its own wheels(let alone drive it!) then dear god NO!
Threaded rod, if unspecified, is usually akin to a grade 4 bolt....
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You're like a crazy backyard genius! |
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Jul 24, 2013 17:22:50 GMT
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Yep, ok, thanks  |
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barty
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,088
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Jul 24, 2013 19:41:34 GMT
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why not use wheel bolts rather than studs
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Jul 24, 2013 19:45:10 GMT
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I would if I could find any,
The thread is 3/8 unf and wheels are either 10 or 12" mini steels
I would love to know where I could get some for that
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Jul 24, 2013 20:09:23 GMT
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I started a whole response about drilling out and splined studs, but threaded bolts sound like the easiest option. There are a couple of online suppliers whose names I can't remember who maybe could supply to the right thread? Ebay?
Are some of the trailer spares companies worth a shot. I know some Scimitar guys have used what are essentially trailer studs, dunno if bolts are an option from them too?
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omega
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,060
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Jul 24, 2013 20:27:26 GMT
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DO NOT USE THREADED BAR
to remove drum,remove dust cover,remove split pin,undo, big nut then pull of drum.
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Jul 24, 2013 23:04:59 GMT
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Jul 24, 2013 23:31:12 GMT
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If you really can't find any bolts, then I'd be inclined to cut the head off something that you know is suitable in order to effectively make a short threaded bar, but of known quality. Mini's use 3/8th wheel studs, so you could buy some that are way too long, and then cut the head/press in section off and screw in the remaining threaded section, or do exactly the same with a long 12.9 grade bolt. Basically anything that's a 10.9 or preferably higher grade. Just try not to get lots of heat in it as you cut, I'd probably use a hacksaw/hand file over power tools, just to be on the safe side.
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threaded bolts sound like the easiest option. Agreed to remove drum,remove dust cover,remove split pin,undo, big nut then pull of drum. Thank you Thanks, i've emailed them Mini's use 3/8th wheel studs, so you could buy some that are way too long, and then cut the head/press in section off and screw in the remaining threaded section, or do exactly the same with a long 12.9 grade bolt. Basically anything that's a 10.9 or preferably higher grade. Just try not to get lots of heat in it as you cut, I'd probably use a hacksaw/hand file over power tools, just to be on the safe side. Thanks, yes i thought the same. i can't find any mini studs with a long enough thread (they extended the shaft and not the thread) but i am considering some bolts. I have found some 2" bolts which may be long enough, that's 3/8" longer than the studs i have If i cut the ends how do i shape them able to take a bolt? Someone told me by undoing a nut over the end it usually allows a nut to be put back on, but by what Composimmonite says /\ the thread will be harder than the nut? |
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If you put a nut on any thread before cutting then when you undo it simply reshapes the existing thread if it's been slightly distorted by cutting.
What nobody has asked is why you need longer studs anyway ? Are the existing ones damaged or is it to enable different wheels to be fitted etc.
Paul H
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Yes, the wheels are currently 10" mini steels. The tyres are worn and I want to use the 12" mini steels I have
The 12" are a different offset so touch the swing arm behind the hub
So to fit them I need to bring them out a little and fit small spacers
It's also a lot easier to find 12" tyres, so as time goes on I can replace them. Having more thread would allow me to fit a variety of wheels with the mini stud pattern. Including the alloys I currently have which I could use if necessary
Edit: The current studs are also damaged so need replacing anyway
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Jul 25, 2013 11:20:43 GMT
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Jul 25, 2013 18:18:04 GMT
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Hi Paul,
Yes but i still need to convert to press-in
There are lots of press-in studs available
I haven't removed the drum so i have no clue what the hub is like
Don't press-in hubs have splines to match those on the studs?
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