unitybonez
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Blowing Pintos
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Ok, thanks. So, swapped the carb and the problem still persists. First crank it fires but dies right after, then nothin, but if i leave it to sit for 10 minutes the first crank will fire and die once more, and then nothing... I'm real puzzled. I need some serious help here tryin to diagnose the problem. How would i detect a vacuum leak without the engine runnin? And what other way i have to check if its an ignition key related problem? thanks all.
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unitybonez
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Blowing Pintos
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Is it possible to have a blown head gasket, craked block or head without any outside leaks? As from outside all seems fine, but I'm just preparin myself for worse case scenario.
Or what about the brake booster. A friend of mine had a mkII Escort that would over rev as soon as it was fired because of a brake booster vacuum leak, so i suppose the opposite is possible??
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unitybonez
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Blowing Pintos
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Say i have to rebuild the engine, and that i have a spare that ran pretty strong 5 years ago when it was taken out another sierra. Would this be enuff:
Full top end gaskets e seals set, including head gasket and valve seats. New valves New pistons and rings
While at it i would upgrade the cam, and consequently the valve springs.
Is there somethingelse i should absolutley get new?
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If it was me, and I had a spare engine that ran fine five years ago I'd just fit it. Unless you store engines at the bottom of a pond, it will probably be just as good as when it came out. You can always fit valve stem seals etc with it in the car IF it needs them.
Second thing that occurs to me, because it did sound very much like a flooding carb causing the bother and putting a new carb on hasn't helped much, have you changed the spark plugs again since putting the carb on? I find many new plugs (NGK, I'm looking at you!) don't cope well with being flooded with fuel, and never work properly even when dried out. Might be worth a go....
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in
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Darkspeed
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Make sure that you only have the dizzy -ve and the supply +ve in the circuit to the coil and not any other components - tacho etc.
Open the points on the dizzy cam and rattle a small screw driver between them and make sure that the spark produced at the coil can jump at least a 6mm gap
If the accel pump works on the carb - you can get fuel in - test some make sure it lights and its not water.
make sure you have compression - stuff your finger in pot one plug hole and turn the engine over making sure that the rotor arm is pointing at the number one plug on the compression stroke
If fuel is getting in - there is a spark in the right place and compression then it will run - One way or another you do not have all three -- so checa again and find out which ones are wrong its a very simple device so you have missed something.
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unitybonez
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Blowing Pintos
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If it was me, and I had a spare engine that ran fine five years ago I'd just fit it. Unless you store engines at the bottom of a pond, it will probably be just as good as when it came out. You can always fit valve stem seals etc with it in the car IF it needs them. Second thing that occurs to me, because it did sound very much like a flooding carb causing the bother and putting a new carb on hasn't helped much, have you changed the spark plugs again since putting the carb on? I find many new plugs (NGK, I'm looking at you!) don't cope well with being flooded with fuel, and never work properly even when dried out. Might be worth a go.... It was always stored in a decently dry warehouse up to 3 years ago, when it got into my garage that in winter is DAMP! a lot of humidity. I plugged all holes with rags but i wonder how it looks inside.. I once left it w/out the rocker cover cause a mate needed it for a couple weeks, and in that time the cam got all covered in surface rust! It also needs dizzy, intake and heders, so not exactley plug n play.
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unitybonez
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Blowing Pintos
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Did the screw driver thing and spark is deffo good.
Is there anyway I can do a leakdown test without any specific tools? Someone suggested something on the lines of: remove plugs, rocker cover, put car in gear, pull hand brake, and crank by hand. But didnt explain too well so I'm not sure what i have to really do and what to expect? I just wanna rule out, or confirm, the headgasket/compression problem before I continue chasing my tail on the simple stuff. thanks.
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bortaf
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TBH it sound like the ign live has gone from the coil, it will get 12V off the starter during cranking but should then revert back to 9V after, on taunus/cortina it's usually the 2 multiplugs on the bulkhead, the ign live post burns out due to the load of usually a seized heater motor or just bad wiring? sorry if i missed it but have you checked for violtage at the coil "after" cranking it over?
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unitybonez
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Blowing Pintos
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Well, no i didnt, but if the engine doesnt fire wouldnt the voltage at the coil be the same before and after crankin?
Anyway, by bulkhead i suppose you mean the firewall right? If so I'm positive i don't have any multiplugs, just 2 holes with a grommet with wiring goin into behind the dash. Might prove difficult to find the right one....
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unitybonez
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Blowing Pintos
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Tested the coil. B4 crankin it reads 12, while two seconds after crankin it reads 11.8. I tried 4 or 5 times just to be sure and gave always the same readin. Is this good?
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unitybonez
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Blowing Pintos
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Anyone? Sorry to be a pain. Its my only drivin car ATM, so I'm really sweatin it ![:(](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/sad.png)
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ive spent a long time over winter with cars (mainly VW's for a change) getting all upset not running properly , failing to start etc. one lad i know had been having issues with what turned out to be a knackered coil, he changed it....as a resault he was awarded with a rocco that wouldnt run, the spark was very weak. after looking at the plugs during cranking it transpired that he was getting a spark from the ground electrode rather than the center electrode, he had only wired the coil th wrong way round. my point being not to treat you like an idiot,or teach you something you know but could it be that a part you have replaced in trying to solve thew issue has compounded the problem due to a small error of judgement?
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barty
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you need to get this checked out by someone who knows what he is doing, all your doing is wasting your time and money on it. Boraf know what he is talking about. it not worth changing engines as the fault will still be there even with an engine change. I know its always good to sort out the problem yourself but as this has been going on for so long and you have been at the mercy of everyones guess you would be better to learn from an expert when he helps you sort it out
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unitybonez
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Blowing Pintos
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If I had a spare 100 it would already be in at the garage. But yeah, if by next week it aint runnin the first 100 I get will go towards towin it.
Now, were would the ignition live post be, considered I don't have any multi plugs at the firewall? Which of the wires do I have to track? From the ignition switch there should be four, 2 red, a yellow and a black one.
And btw, I'm looking at gettin a fiesta or something so that I can properly build this car while still havin something to drive...
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bortaf
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I'd start again from scratch, check timing marks first to make sure the timing isn't 180 deg out, make sure there is 9V at the coil with the ign on and 12 V when cranking, it should then drop back to 9, 12 all the time is probably your ballest wire gone and the coil has burnt out and or the points. Then check for a spark at the plug(they may need changing if they have been flooded a lot) , if thats all ok it must be fuel, i usually disconnect the pump and try some easystart down the carb or a small amount of petrol, try this from first thing so there no chance of the engine being flooded.
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unitybonez
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Blowing Pintos
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Checked timing and its good. Coil reads 12v before crankin and 11.8 right after. Plugs still spark. But i noticed something else while puttin back the old carb, while empting the spare one the fuel that got out was transparent ![:o](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/shocked.png) like water!!! I truly hope its the case even thou the only way water got into the tank would be at the gas station cause the tank is brand new and the filler neck is in the trunk.
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Darkspeed
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Glad to see you followed my advice above ![::)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/eyesroll.png)
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unitybonez
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Blowing Pintos
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I actually followed it, and i gotta admit that the screw driver on the points trick is pretty clever and beats laying a spark plug on the chassis to check for spark by miles. And i also did the finger compression test. I simply jumped the gas check cause i thought it wasnt possible to have so much water into the system. I still cant wrap my head around it, but we'll kno tomo mornin for sure.
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Is there a suppresor on the coil to stop radio interference? Remove it to eliminate it if there is. Water in the petrol, is it a water heated inlet manifold. When I get frustrated with a problem like this, its a good idea to let a mate to look at it, without any advice from you, because sometimes you miss the obvious, I know, I've done it.
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unitybonez
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Blowing Pintos
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Today I had a collegue that restores old bikes e mopeds, and the occasional car, have a look at it. After goin bananas for 2 full hours he noticed that the belt was loose, not loose loose, but enuff that you can push it pull it on the pulley's teeth. Do I make sense? So hes sure it slipped a couple teeth, and tomo morn or sunday I'm gonna go fix it.
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