arge
Part of things
Posts: 301
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Jan 14, 2013 16:07:59 GMT
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Hello!
Just after a bit of advice.
Details aside, how safe is it to hotwire electric windows in for permanent use?
Ie, power and earth cable straight to battery then straight to electric window switches?
Any advise on what size fuse to use would be great if anyone has an idea?
Or indeed any way that i could use my factory fit electric windows in a way that bypasses the standard wiring in the car.
Thanks!
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CIH
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,466
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Jan 14, 2013 16:13:15 GMT
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I think the obvious quesion is "why ?"
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arge
Part of things
Posts: 301
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Jan 14, 2013 16:58:07 GMT
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Basically a previous owner has done some sort of rewiring and seems to have done away with the factory fitted relay/fuse board that houses the relay for the electric windows. Thus making life a bit difficult.
I cant see any other way for me to be able to use my windows short of doing some sort of hotwiring as described above.
I just want to know roughly how safe it would be to do so and if there was any advice available as to how to go about doing it....
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arge
Part of things
Posts: 301
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Jan 14, 2013 17:07:41 GMT
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On second thoughts another possible explanation is that it has been fitted with an aftermarket electric window kit...
Either way, my query still stands!
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Jan 14, 2013 17:56:54 GMT
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Last Edit: Jan 14, 2013 18:07:01 GMT by ianboyd
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 858
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Jan 14, 2013 18:34:33 GMT
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It was very common for aftermarket kits to be fitted without relays. The cheaper ones (Smiths Servoglide etc) just used the switches. Having said that, the window motors bore a close resemblance to heater motors!! They are quite low power and rely on a gearbox to give the required torque to lift the windows.
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71
2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet
1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon
1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump)
1992 Toyota HiLux Surf
1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty)
1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty)
2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager
2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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arge
Part of things
Posts: 301
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Jan 14, 2013 18:51:46 GMT
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Ianboyd that looks like a good idea.
Would i need to install a fuse anywhere along the line with that?
And how would i go about wiring it in?
I'm new to all this electrical lark!
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 858
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Jan 14, 2013 21:13:04 GMT
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Here you go, circuit using two relays:  |
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71
2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet
1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon
1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump)
1992 Toyota HiLux Surf
1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty)
1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty)
2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager
2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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I used an electric window switch from an old citroen in the scrappers - direct wired as standard  Big fuse from the battery, big chunky cable, job done  |
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You're like a crazy backyard genius! |
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arge
Part of things
Posts: 301
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What size fuse friend?
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I threw in a 30A fuse |
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You're like a crazy backyard genius!
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 858
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Jan 15, 2013 18:52:59 GMT
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This is pretty much the same as the circuit I already posted but with a second switch.
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Last Edit: Jan 15, 2013 18:53:52 GMT by squonk
2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71
2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet
1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon
1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump)
1992 Toyota HiLux Surf
1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty)
1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty)
2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager
2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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Jan 15, 2013 22:18:17 GMT
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Another thought it wire relay via a change over switch that has the non load power input so you can opt for ignition or non ignition control
I must admit I'm always switching off the engine and removing key before realising a window is still open so can understand why you are considering non igniton controled.
Paul h
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 858
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Jan 15, 2013 22:33:26 GMT
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Be even more elegant, do as you suggest but instead of an override switch wire it in to the courtesy light switch so that when the door is open you can operate the windows. Handy if you get out of the car and notice that you have left a window open.
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71
2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet
1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon
1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump)
1992 Toyota HiLux Surf
1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty)
1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty)
2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager
2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Jan 16, 2013 12:34:12 GMT
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I think id be tempted to wire the windows so they come on with the ignition switch but also wire such that when the key is turned to lock the vehicle that it will close any open windows. That features on a lot of moderns and is quite handy. It should be to hard to wire up either if the car already has central locking.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Jan 16, 2013 13:53:57 GMT
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How can you say details aside than ask for acurate ideas on what to do  Early cars (sierra, Mk3/4 escort) don't use relays just H/D switches and i've run them all straight from the battery with a fuse the same size as if they went to the fuse box BUT if you were to follow that plan you "may" need thicker wire . Later cars use relays built into the switch, lucida for instance uses a thermal cut off switch that cuts power when the window is up and is all housed in the switch pannel, some use seperate relays some use body control moduals so can not answer with any accuracy really. |
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R.I.P photobucket
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,609
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I believe fathers car would source the power for 'DOWN' from the ignition-on/accessories power supply so the the windows could only be wound down if the key was in the ignition for security reasons, but direct from the battery for 'UP' so you could still wind them up if you forgot (most annoying when you can't). Some use a timer( ie. 60 seconds after ignition off), 'courtesy' light idea sounds interesting as well.
Some cars are certainly prone to control switch failure (with wreckers charging accordingly for replacements), that may be significantly reduced if they had less power to deal with through relays.
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Last Edit: Jan 17, 2013 0:55:11 GMT by 79cord
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arge
Part of things
Posts: 301
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Jan 17, 2013 12:00:27 GMT
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To clarify, at some point I think my car has been converted from manual windows to electric windows.
This is evident from the existing wiring in the car and the fact that on the fuse/relay board there is nowhere for me to install the new factory fit relay I have bought for it.
As is, the windows are not being used, as I havent connected the earth part of this wiring to the battery.
Wiring consists of the two wires that go from the motors in the doors to the switches, and a live and earth wire that go to the battery, which have been spliced accordingly to connect to the 6 terminals on each switch.
Thats it, no fuse, no relay.
I'm an a total novice with electrics and relays etc so don't understand many of the technical terms being used and really just want to know the easiest option to be able to use my windows.
Not fussed with them automatically coming up, and am happy for them to be usable without an ignition feed.
Sorry if I didnt make this clear.
So basically, if I was to just whack a fuse in the existing wiring that is there, would this "do"?
Or do I NEED to do owt else?
Thanks a lot!
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Last Edit: Jan 17, 2013 12:03:35 GMT by arge
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Jan 18, 2013 12:12:11 GMT
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depends on how beefy the internals of the switch are tbh. It may work if you just shove some power to it, or it may melt in the blink of an eye
Whereabouts are you? Might be someone local who can give it a look
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You're like a crazy backyard genius!
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