ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Sept 18, 2012 20:58:40 GMT
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A friend of mine is rebuilding his Honda D16z6 engine (He has bought this engine to rebuild for some turbo power  ). However, upon undoing the cam cover, this happened:    He is considering grinding it down , and retapping it lower into the metal but he is concerned that it may go into an oilway. So, what would you chaps do in this scenario? |
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Sept 18, 2012 21:03:00 GMT
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Lumiweld?
Its supposed to be tough enough for this kinda thing.
Laser tools do their own version too.
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Koos
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Sept 19, 2012 1:03:52 GMT
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since he's rebuidling for turbo power it's going to all come apart anyway, just send the head off to a proper welder and have them build the lug back up. Just file/grind the shape back into shape (it doesnt really matter) and then drill/tap a new thread into it.
Any other fix will probably do for a while, but won't hold in the long term.
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Sept 19, 2012 9:42:51 GMT
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Get some cam caps,
In fact I have D6 head right here, £30 plus ship /collection.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Sept 19, 2012 10:27:20 GMT
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I thought the cam caps were unique to each head in the case of the D16 (I know that this is the case for many an engine (including my Stag). Or is that not the case?
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Sept 19, 2012 10:28:30 GMT
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Maybe for parts that were cast in some guys back yard, but not on a decent production line with fine tolerances. [imo]
I've build a few engines mixing parts and not had issues. They soon wear to their new partners.
In any case, this head is complete with cam etc if he wanted to go that way.
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Sept 19, 2012 12:04:07 GMT
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They will be line-bored in place so will be unique to each head. Depending on the tolerances you might get away with it, but you might not.
Is that part used to hold the cam box on?
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
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Sept 19, 2012 20:07:46 GMT
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Yeah, as James says they're usually line-bored in place so are specific to the head. Tolerances on any engine produced by a company who actually plan to ever make a profit will only be tight on items that they absolutely need to be tight on. The whole reason for line boring them is that you only have to do the boring to a high tolerance, and the caps fit can be done to a nice low (cheap) tolerance without effecting the reliability/operation. Making them all to a high enough tolerance that any cap fitted any engine would be hugely and pointlessly expensive. Making parts in matched sets is far from unusual, especially with bearings. A lot of con-rods are actually cast/forged as a single piece with the big end cap, and then the cap's 'cracked' away from the rod, this is intentionally done to make sure that it's a perfect mate with the other half, and provide some location in the joint, making each rod/cap combination a completely unique pair. (Not meaning to be patronising to anyone, I just find that kind of interesting  I know that with the VW heads I've played with the caps aren't even interchangeable within the same head, let-alone with a different head, and they're well known to reach 300k regularly on the original valve-train. |
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Last Edit: Sept 19, 2012 20:11:42 GMT by RobinJI
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ChasR
RR Helper
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Club RR Member Number: 170
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Sept 19, 2012 22:17:06 GMT
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They will be line-bored in place so will be unique to each head. Depending on the tolerances you might get away with it, but you might not. Is that part used to hold the cam box on? When you say the cam box, are you referring to the cam/rocker cover? If so, yes  . Some good replies here. I shall let you know what happens. |
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,514
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Sept 19, 2012 22:25:08 GMT
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IF that thread is only holding the cam cover on, the screws for which are not done up to a particularly high torque and there is no question of the cap being dangerously weakened and there is no other reason to get repair work done to anything else and the broken piece fits back in its place neatly so the threads line up then I'd be very tempted to use some sort of 'gunk' to stick the bit back on.
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Last Edit: Sept 20, 2012 7:23:38 GMT by Seth
Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable. |
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sparkyt
Posted a lot
selling stuff
Posts: 1,767
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Sept 19, 2012 22:38:05 GMT
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I'd go with the welding idea . As long as you can get it clean ...the weld would be best
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Sept 20, 2012 6:38:23 GMT
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I'd say by the time that has been welded it'll have moved around so much that it'l be as matched to the head as any other. My advice is get another and look into having the cam bed aligned bored again
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Sept 20, 2012 8:20:14 GMT
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Or just get the entire head inc cam for £30? |
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). However, upon undoing the cam cover, this happened:
.
