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Sept 17, 2012 9:05:16 GMT
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Morning all,
Okay, my car (Metro Turbo is so, so close to its first half-decent MoT attempt in five years. But, after all the prep’s done I can’t get it to start!
Now, this follows the last stage in the recomissioning process by a good mechanic friend of mine who has done a sterling job of getting it up to scratch and who has been a technician/mechanic for the last 35 years.
After sorting all the bearings/brakes/exhaust he spent a good few hours giving it a bit of a tune – or as much as he could do – and it sounded the best it ever had, starting instantly and amazingly didn’t blow up etc. The only thing he said was “just have to see if it starts when cold now!” The answer I’ve since found out (a week or so later), being “no”.
Now, I know he’ll be able to sort it out no problem but I just wonder if there’s something obvious that I could do before I call on him again. It’s turning but just doesn’t catch. I sprayed some carb cleaner down the air filter housing and it did a little cough but other than that a big fat nothing. It was run quite low on fuel so I’m wondering if the fuel filter is clogged but to be honest the tank was cleaned out a few years back and it’s done a handful of miles since.
Despite me giving it plenty of choke and pumping the pedal it didn’t smell ‘fuelly’ or flooded either, so I really am wondering if the fuel’s getting through.
Other than that, I’m thinking timing?
Any thoughts are much appreciated. And yes, I have already tried the special "car starting words" that I learnt from my Dad and will pass on to my son when I feel he is capable of using them responsibly and only for such important occasions.
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hamps
Posted a lot
www.medwayrscentre.co.uk
Posts: 2,077
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Sept 17, 2012 10:40:43 GMT
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Is the electric pump working? lay on the floor and put your hand on it while someone cranks it over, if it's not then it's the pump or the pump relay. good starting point if you can't smell fuel.  Good luck |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Sept 17, 2012 10:55:56 GMT
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I guess that you have a spark? IIRC these have a funky dizzy arrangement on them (with an air gap that needs to be correct).
Can you hear the fuel pump running? They are a high(ish) pressure item on the Metro Turbos.
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Sept 17, 2012 11:26:43 GMT
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Yep, pump works as it should...
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Sept 17, 2012 12:28:36 GMT
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Just a thing but these run out of fuel when they reach the last indicator on the gauge not like some cars which will run when the needle has gone past empty, l found this out with a relatives metro had to push it for fookin miles!!!!!!!
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rodney
Posted a lot
https://www.facebook.com/RD-vehicle-transport-and-recovery-services-525622614268010/
Posts: 1,677
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Sept 17, 2012 19:32:42 GMT
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is the choke working?? have you pulled the choke out?? silly to ask but gotta ask , while chokes out check the connection to the carb , it may not be pulling it out enougth,.
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facebook: rodney dean / rd transport  |
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Macoli
Part of things
Posts: 181
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Sept 18, 2012 11:13:31 GMT
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Check there's oil in the dashpot - I've seen a similar starting problem in a Montego turbo that was cured by adding oil to the carb's dashpot.
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Last Edit: Sept 18, 2012 11:23:53 GMT by Macoli
Wanted: mk2 Cavalier front valence
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grahamj
Part of things
Old enough to know better....
Posts: 274
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Sept 19, 2012 23:27:16 GMT
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In the day, the metro turbo .. they used to suffer from over active fuel pumps/ duff relays.. i remember some serious flooding problems working on them years ago. Draining fuel from the oil/sump! Rip the plugs out and see if they are wet...
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2005 VW T5 Dayvan
1997 VW T4 Dayvan
Vauxhall Nova 2 Litre Redtop
1970 Moggy Van..
94 vw Passat Bus
1985 Vauxhall Nova Base show car
1987 Vauxhall Nova 1.4 16v XE Rallycar
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Sept 20, 2012 14:47:17 GMT
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Okey, dokey, time for an update.
So, car still refuses to fire... Still doesn't smell fuelly/flooded after plenty of churning and the only smell is from the back of the car where I presume the fuel is returning to the tank? There's no traces of it on the floor.
But, looking at the inline fuel filter it's bone dry after turning the key, so I don't think fuel is coming through. I have a tested, used OE pump on its way - didn't want to mess with the different connections on the new ebay ones - and will probably change the filter too.
In the meantime is there any kind of product that could help shift a blockage in the pipe?
Thanks for all the help so far.
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rodney
Posted a lot
https://www.facebook.com/RD-vehicle-transport-and-recovery-services-525622614268010/
Posts: 1,677
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Sept 21, 2012 21:31:32 GMT
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have you checked the relay for pump is working?? could just be sticky due to standing etc , same with pump probe it up , don't buy random bits till you test stuff,.
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facebook: rodney dean / rd transport |
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Sept 23, 2012 22:20:44 GMT
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have you tiried the obvious like put a couple of cans of fuel in it
Dave
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Macoli
Part of things
Posts: 181
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Sept 26, 2012 12:12:35 GMT
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Buy a can of Easystart/Start-Ya-curse word, and squirt a little of that into the carb. Take the air filter housing off and squirt it directly in, just incase of a back-fire that splits the piping and air fliter housing.
If it fires up no problems but dies soon after, it's most likely a lack of fuel. If it fails to fire, it's most likely an ignition problem.
If it's a lack of fuel, fill the carburettor float bowl up manually and see if it will fire like this, it should do and should run until the float bowl is empty.
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Wanted: mk2 Cavalier front valence
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Sept 27, 2012 6:05:32 GMT
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Squirting into the carb will be fun with the plenum chamber on it, which links up to the turbo and prior to that is the air filter.
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Oct 15, 2012 19:56:24 GMT
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Well, it runs... sort of.
Had it running yesterday - pump is fine, fuel pressure regulator seems to be doing its thing and fuel is getting to the carb. Only problem is it tends to be staying there... the plugs are dry and to get it to run means gunning a load of carb cleaner down the air filter.
So, we're thinking that there's muck in the bottom of the carb. Would you agree? Next job is to get the carb off and drop it off at my local garage for them to give it a blast through with the air line - good idea or not? Cheers for the help so far, much appreciated.
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Oct 15, 2012 20:08:06 GMT
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Well, it runs... sort of. Had it running yesterday - pump is fine, fuel pressure regulator seems to be doing its thing and fuel is getting to the carb. Only problem is it tends to be staying there... the plugs are dry and to get it to run means gunning a load of carb cleaner down the air filter. So, we're thinking that there's muck in the bottom of the carb. Would you agree? Next job is to get the carb off and drop it off at my local garage for them to give it a blast through with the air line - good idea or not? Cheers for the help so far, much appreciated. Thats ok if the air blows the crud through,however there is always the risk the air will just compact any crud, or force it somewhere it should not be. |
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Oct 15, 2012 20:12:26 GMT
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Spose you could always take the carb off and check needle and float chamber, and that the 'butterfly' actually works ?
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Oct 17, 2012 11:00:02 GMT
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Thanks optimusprime.
Carb is now off the car and with the bemused old school mechanics of my local garage. They're going to give it a once over...
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Oct 18, 2012 13:46:22 GMT
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the SU's are lovely simple things If it's the original turbo carb, ask if they can replace the bi-metal strip that holds the jet, with a bit of plain steel. Basically, when the engine's hot, it raises the jet, leaning out the mixture (a kind of auto choke function) but it can cause massive headaches when adjusting the mixture, as it will be different when hot or cold! Usually resulting in horrendous hot-starting, or a ridiculously rich mixture at low engine temps |
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You're like a crazy backyard genius! |
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