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Aug 30, 2012 21:10:47 GMT
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Right, back onto this topic again! This is doing my head in now, so I shall explain. Basically, Ive always had a problem with the car showing that its overheating, dial goes off the scale.Only does this at motorway speeds, say 70 or above.below this is fine.On sat, en route to the gathering, I got stuck for hours in a traffic jam, boiling hot, standstill on the motorway, and it was fine, no hint of overheat.higher speeds on a cold day, dial goes through the roof. I'm trying to work through the system, and so far have done the following; Flushed the cooling system out, with proper rad flush, and had it running clear water whilst flowing the hose pipe through it Replaced the temp gauge sender with correct colour one(white) Fitted electric fan And then today, I replaced the water pump with a new one, and, thought whilst I was at it, change the thermostat. But, when I went to check which temp tstat i needed, found there wasn't one in there at all!  So have put a new one in. I have also now removed the viscous fan, which has also not had any effect in the negative. engine wise, The car is standard 2.0 apart from four branch, and stainless system. It never shows any sign of having a problem, no steam, faultering, and never actually seems that hot. Any further ideas?Last effort will be changing the whole intrument panel, incase the gauge is borked.The gauge never seems irratic or anything, so who knows! The car is a GL, fitted with Ghia instruments. This wouldnt make any diffefrence? The rad looks good condition, flows ok. I know its a bit long winded, but, not sure where else to go with this really. Last thing, I did buy a rad from a 2.3 v6 Cortina. Its bigger, but the in and out are opposite sides.Can I still fit this, or will it not flow the right way or whathaveyou? Thanks! ;D ;D |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Cortina(still)overheatingChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Aug 30, 2012 21:38:13 GMT
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Your radiator may be silted. On quite a few occasions engine flush alone will not flush the system. The core either needs to be replaced or rodded (the latter is a service that a few radiator shops may still offer).
Another thing that can be handy is an IR temperature gun. I got a cheapo one off ebay and it has been handy:). This can help in ruling out the temp sender.
Out of curiousity how long have you had the car and what state was the coolant in when you took it out?
On the basis that it overheats on the motorway (and that your engine still seems fine (I try not to run my cars in the red!)) it could also be down to either a wiring fault or a duff voltage stabilizer.
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Last Edit: Aug 30, 2012 21:43:06 GMT by ChasR
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Aug 30, 2012 21:50:04 GMT
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Ruddy annoying isnt it! The hoses feel hot, but when the fan is on full chat, the centre does feel cold, but thats because of the air rushing through.Ive had the car a few years I suppose, but isn't a daily driver,and usually doesn't get used on long journeys, only really when a show is on. Normally, its local use, and any high speeds are in short bursts, so by the time it get s hot, albeit fairly quickly, the speed has dropped, and so the temp does.The coolant in it wasn't the best, but Ive replaced it 4/5 times, with that rad flush being done too.Heater works better now though!Interested thought about the re-core though.This v6 rad I bought is meant have been re done recently, so double bonus is the flow direction or whatever is correct. I also did think about the temp gun thing, but not sure what normal running temp is meant to be?Then I could wait for it to ' overheat', then jump out and lazer the engine!See what its actually running at. I hope you get your one sorted soon though.Would be interested to know the result.  |
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v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,763
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Aug 30, 2012 21:56:48 GMT
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Rad silted up is quite common, might be the fan shroud was missing from the viscous fan, that can cause loads of trouble, the rad should be sealed to the front panel to stop air going around it rather than thru it, another option is you could be running a 1.3 rad and not knowing it. the fact its overheating at speed indicates this could be a problem, is the rad cap up to the job, is it leaking fluids, as soon as the fluids leak its will run into overheating problems in decreasing circles
Could be advanced too far,
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Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style.
Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Aug 30, 2012 22:32:19 GMT
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timing ok or running weak? both eill cause overheating at speed ?
the dash wony matter they use the same sender but the gauge could be borked, when it goes up does the fuel gauge rase as well? that would point to the reg ?
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R.I.P photobucket
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Aug 30, 2012 23:19:19 GMT
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in the past i've found its either viscous fan &/or blocked rad.
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theres more to life than mpg & to much power is just enough.
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I don't think the fan would do much difference at motorway speeds.
My money is on timing or running lean, but start with a (temporary) aftermarket gauge.
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Cheers for the replies. The system is water tight, cap etc is good.Timing and all that stuff is spot on. It got properly set up on th rollers not that long ago, and nothing has changed since.
The fuel gauge is a bit broken too, showing half on the gauge is actually full, but other wise works as normal, and has no effect on temp gauge, and vis versa.
Think the rad is next in the firing line.I'd like to fit this bigger v6 rad I have.Is the ports being opposite going to be an issue, or can I just get some new hoses made up, and go go go?
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,161
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I#d change the volt regulator, it works the fuel gauge too.....
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Aug 31, 2012 13:25:23 GMT
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Forget the V6 rad if it's a Mk4 it will physicly fit the front pannel but the end caps will need replacing TBH your better off with a Mk2 transit HD (big header rad) and if it's a Mk5 rad the front pannels are differant for those so wont fit anyeway, i'd remove the rad and soak it in sumink to clean it out , cheap cola is, errr, cheap and works lol also i'd deffo change the gauges but first earth out the fuel sender wire off the sender to earth, if the fuel gauge hits the top the gauge is ok and the sender is borked if it doesn't hit the top the gauge or the regulator is borked instead.
When the reg goes it usually makes both read low or high so check the printed curuit on the back carefully for charing or minibreaks, kinks ect
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R.I.P photobucket
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,993
Club RR Member Number: 35
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Cortina(still)overheatingcraig1010cc
@craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member 35
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Aug 31, 2012 17:23:46 GMT
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Could be the voltage stabiliser, could be worth seeing if you can measure the volts at the back of the gauge (should be a steady 12v no mater what the rev's), or take it up the motorway, once the temp has risen up high on the gauge, try coasting for 10-30 sec's and see if it drops back to normal, if the gauge stays high, then thats 1 thing ruled out
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Aug 31, 2012 21:22:49 GMT
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I had the same symptoms with my Carlton 2.0 cdi est. Ran middle of guage until a long hard hill or motorway was encountered then went up into the red, did everything you have, even a tranmission cooler ( it was auto) but eventually traced it to the rad not having enough flow through it. New rad fitted and it was a different car.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Aug 31, 2012 21:35:00 GMT
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I've had dud voltage stabilisers and they do make the instruments go bonkers - but it wouldn't just happen at motorway speeds. The fact you have a consistent pattern suggests it is a mechanical issue.
I'd agree that the most likely cause is insufficient flow through the radiator core. But if you have only just replaced the missing thermostat how is it since you did that? A missing 'stat can cause overheating because it allows coolant to bypass parts of the system.
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djefk
Part of things
Posts: 844
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Aug 31, 2012 22:55:22 GMT
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I'd do two things. Change the rad or get it re-cored. Then change the water pump.
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Aug 31, 2012 23:26:49 GMT
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I changed the water pump on my 1.6L MKV estate and suffered similar symptoms. OK around town but overheated on run despite new rad. Turned out to be a massive airlock. In the end cured by filling up engine with hose connected to the heater pipe until it flowed out the other side. Then heater pipe reconnected, small amount drained from system via disconnecting bottom hose and then adding antifreeze.
On another car, can't remember what (I've owned over 100 !) the water pump vanes had corroded away to just small stubs so virtually no pumping action.
Paul H
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Is the overheating occurring at high road speeds or high engine speed?
i.e. you say it overheats at 70mph or above, what about trying the same engine revs in a lower gear, therefore at lower speed?
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fred
Posted a lot
WTF has happened to all the Vennies?
Posts: 2,957
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Sept 1, 2012 21:54:30 GMT
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If you have done all the obvious, its the rad silted up, best get it recored or get a new one
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'79 Cossie ran Cortina - Sold
2000 Fozzer 2.0 turbo snow beast
'85 Opel Manta GSI - Sold
03 A class Mercedes
Looking for a FD Ventora - Anyone?
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Sept 2, 2012 10:39:56 GMT
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Try starting it up, putting a brick on the throttle, and rev the be'jebus out of it till it explodes. if it doesnt explode, then you will have probably found its just a dodgy sensor or guage
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"No............I think I'll stick with the Maxi"
Arther Daley
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Just a suggestion as these were the same symptoms my van was showing, but I wonder if you might have a head gasket gone or cracked head? Mine was leaking so gradually the coolant level didn't drop significantly but the most obvious sign was a couple of plugs cleaner then the others due to being steam cleaned. A sniff test done at a local garage confirmed it.
What was happening was the water jacket was getting pressurised messing up the flow around the cylinder head but it only became apparent under sustained conditions.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Cortina(still)overheatingChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Sept 4, 2012 22:58:51 GMT
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You said you were interested in how I get on, so here it is. As I said in my thread, the bottom of the Stag's radiator was barely warm. Despite the coolant being (or looking clear for the best part of a year it really did not look too pleasant when I dropped the coolant out. Engine stuff was a little black, but the stuff from the radiator was a nasty rust colour (pretty much what it had been when I thoroughly flushed the rad out last time). Backwards flushing it was not too pleasant either, probably an even worse site. Anyway, the car runs around normal temperature with motorway speeds or at least sticking to the 80MPH 'French' speed limits  . The entire radiator now gets warm too . I do dread to think what a flow test would say about the old radiator mind you... In your case I would still check out the Voltage stabilizer first, and possibly the expansion tank cap. |
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Last Edit: Sept 4, 2012 23:00:02 GMT by ChasR
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So have put a new one in.
. The entire radiator now gets warm too