ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,192
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
Aug 20, 2012 22:51:17 GMT
|
|
As above.
At the moment (as one RR poster may say) the biting point on my Spitfire is laughable. At some junctions ( in order to get it into first) I have to turn the engine off and then engage first starting it with the clutch down (other method is to wait a minute with the clutch down to the floor and hope the lights don't change again!).
Again, changing gear on the move is fun. Overdrive is certainly handy!
However, attempting to bleed the clutch by the book seems nearly impossible with next to no room to move a spanner in, and bleed nipple (at the top) obstructed by the solid clutch pipe.
I did consider taking off the gearbox cover, but it appears that I need to remove the dash in order to remove the centre dash support which sits on top of the gearbox.
So, to cut a long story short, what tips do you have for making bleeding a Spitfire's clutch easier? If it is nearly impossible to do underneath, any tips for bleeding the clutch inside the car which does not entail taking apart pretty much the entire dash?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
|
|
Aug 20, 2012 23:38:40 GMT
|
|
horrid job, i removed the gearbox cover on mine, didn't remove the dash just pulled the support from the bottom and it slid out (once unbolted...)
|
| |
The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,192
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
|
|
|
This may explain why the PO struggled.
I have tried to remove the support (it's 6 bolts IIRC (four on the bottom, and two to secure it to the dash). It would slide out if the CD was not fitted (but naturally, the gearstick is in front of that LOL). Did you remove the crash bar from the dash as well, or does that not make a world of difference?
|
| |
|
|
MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786 
|
|
|
|
|
I cheated when it comes to getting to the gearbox filler plug in the Vitesse - I cut an access panel in the tunnel and then gaffer taped it back in when finished. Could you do something similar or is the carpet an issue?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Have a look at Marina clutch. I had two pick-ups and the bleed nipple was remote ! Red plastic pipe from slave to the top of the engine where nipple was then located making bleeding easy. Don't know if all model Marina's are the same or whether just the commercials (mine were 1.1 & 1.3 A Series)
Paul H
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2012 15:19:24 GMT
|
I cheated when it comes to getting to the gearbox filler plug in the Vitesse - I cut an access panel in the tunnel and then gaffer taped it back in when finished. Could you do something similar or is the carpet an issue? We should rename you Mr Gaffatape!! ;D |
| |
Koos
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2012 22:23:12 GMT
|
|
Making a remote sounds like a really interesting fix....i like that, you can do it by just opening the nipple and let it free bleed....worked fine on my granada coupe with the rv8
|
| |
"No............I think I'll stick with the Maxi"
Arther Daley
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,192
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
Aug 21, 2012 22:27:58 GMT
|
I am tempted to cheat Paul. It depends on if the carpet will lift high enough (today's task was sanding the paintwork back, with some success  . I guess I will find out later in the week. If I do not cheat then a remote bleedoff may well be on the cards! |
| |
|
|
MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
|
|
Aug 22, 2012 10:05:33 GMT
|
We should rename you Mr Gaffatape!! ;D I think we all know we only need 2 things in our toolbox. If it moves and it shouldn't, use gaffer tape (or cable ties) If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2012 11:18:52 GMT
|
|
Mine has a lump hammer too :-)
|
| |
Koos
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,192
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
Aug 22, 2012 18:24:15 GMT
|
Well, it's about time I updated this. Upon taking off the pedal box boot on the clutch master cylinder, it was evident that there was plenty of wear present. The pin has been grounded down in a couple of places with the whole lot leading to quite a bit of play at the pedal (probably an inch or 2!). And so I set out in getting a new clevis pin and master cylinder pushrod. Upon fitting it, the play is now much reduced. But I still have a slightly dragging clutch. Fortunately I can adjust the new pushrod . Saying that the fluid is not too pleasant in the cylinder and the last chap claimed he bled it underneath but that it was a struggle (how he managed at all unless he was Houldini is beyond me!). And so if the H beam turns out to be a pain to remove (the stereo is stopping it from tilting about etc.) I most likely will set about cutting up the tunnel and fitting an access panel  . At least the clutch can be bled properly then. In addition to also checking that the slave cylinder is as far into its mounting block as possible. Keep the tips coming chaps. |
| |
|
|
. I guess I will find out later in the week.
. At least the clutch can be bled properly then. In addition to also checking that the slave cylinder is as far into its mounting block as possible.