|
|
|
Jul 29, 2012 10:31:56 GMT
|
|
I intend to have a go at rebuilding my X flow over the winter, Iv'e never done the whole thing myself and i have a few questions.
Duplex timing gear, I know its stronger and with a vernier the timing is more acurate but is it a given that i should fit it or not?
Stronger rod bolts, same again should i fit them or not?
Rocker posts and shaft spacers. yes or no?
Recomendations for somewhere to get the machining done (South yorks area). I need a rebore, crankshaft regrind (if it needs it) Possible balance (shaft pistons rods atc)
I have been gathering a few parts together so far i have oversize pistons to give 1660cc, Kent BCF3 Camshaft (this is the max without piston mods) double valve springs and new lifters. Ive just won an engine stand on the bay too. I'm not looking for massive revs and power output nor do i want to throw daft amounts of money at it hence the questions.
Oh I'm thinking of going the bike carb route too.
Any help ,advice or opinions welcome.
|
| |
|
|
Anglia68
Posted a lot
Powered By Boredom.
Posts: 2,049
|
|
Jul 29, 2012 15:10:59 GMT
|
|
I've built a few x-flows for myself over the years and with the spec you're talking about and only using it for fast road you don't really need things like duplex timing gear or steel posts and spacers.
I would use the money on an uprated oil pump instead and if you're going for bike carbs remove the std petrol pump and use a blanking plate with a "deflector" to replace it and that will drastically reduce the amount of oil that crossflows usually throw out into the atmosphere but it has to have a deflector and not just be a plain plate to work.
New or stronger rod bolts are entirely up to your budget,they certainly won't hurt but as long as the ones you've got are in good condition and properly torqued up then there's really no need.
Getting the engine balanced is always a good idea but making the flywheel too light can make the car easier to stall.
The one part you don't mention,which is where the biggest gains can be had,is the head.Until you have a decent flowed head with bigger valves then you won't get the full benefit from your other mods.
Also don't forget the ignition side of things,a decent electronic set up is so much better than points.
Hths.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2012 16:30:03 GMT
|
|
Hi I'm gathering bits to build my crossflow aswell, was just wondering if any knows anything about the stories of fiesta diesel cank and rods that Iv heard people have used to use which in theory give big displacement, can anyone shed some light on this please
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2012 20:43:47 GMT
|
|
Iv,e not heard about the diesel fiesta mods to be honest so cant comment.
Iv,e not forgoten about the head its just that iv'e never done a bottom end before so thats where my understading is lacking.
Iv,e seen the pump blanking plates but had assumed they just covered up the hole left by the pump.
I think it wise to leave the bike carbs untill iv,e got the engine run in i don't what to be messing with getting them to run right while the engine is fresly rebuilt.
Iv'e got electronic ignition on the car.
|
| |
|
|
Anglia68
Posted a lot
Powered By Boredom.
Posts: 2,049
|
|
Jul 30, 2012 22:02:59 GMT
|
|
The bottom ends are pretty straight forward,just follow what it says in the manual and you can't really go wrong.
Make sure you keep the con rods and end caps together as you remove them,you don't want to mix them up,the same with the mains,make sure they go back where they came from.
Check the crank for any scoring.Fine scratches can be polished out with some wet'n'dry paper used with fine oil,bigger ones might need machining so you could end up needing bigger bearings.
The pistons and con rods are both marked as they only go in one way.
I'ld change the core plugs too and flush out the waterways if they need it.
Use engine assembly lube on all the bearings when you put it back together to protect it on initial start up.
Hths.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
X Flow rebuildDeleted
@Deleted
|
|
|
|
Regarding the fiesta bits you're on about.
What you're thinking of with this is offset grinding of the crank to get a increased throw with a reduction in big end size. It's the rods you need, as they have a smaller big-end size to the crossflow ones, as to CVH ones and several others. They need a few mods to fit crossflow journals, but nothing major. Pistons generally need a bit of machining down too, to compensate for the longer stroke.
It's a well proven way of increasing engine displacement - an extra 1mm of stroke will give you an increase of about 45cc over 4 cylinders. Making the engine more undersquare in this way will give you a more torquey motor, but will make it less revvy. You can, of course, offset grind the other way to give a shorter stroke more rev happy motor.
Joe
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2012 19:38:18 GMT
|
|
Thanks Anglia 68, I think i might do a build thread on here when i do the job then i can show people like you what i find and you can tell me what you think i should do regarding having the crank regorund ETC.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2012 21:43:58 GMT
|
|
Hi again, just back to that diesel fiesta crank iv been told that the journals are all coincidentally very similar to the standard xflow ones but a much larger throw on them and the same guy has said that there an engine builder up north builds these engine some of them being close to 2.0lt and other say over 2.0ltrs is possible using a chambered head but I want more evidence of this so any more info would be good cheers.
|
| |
|
|
