redsunbeam
Part of things
I can't hear you .............
Posts: 136
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Jul 26, 2012 20:56:02 GMT
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Can anyone with a P5 or access to one measure the angles of the front wheels when on full lock for me. It was the one thing i didnt measure before i ripped the old steering box and linkages out.
At the moment the inner wheel in a turn is turning less than the outer which gives me negative ackerman. Even though i have the original steering arms, the rack position means the ackerman angles decrease as the lock goes on.
If i can undo the tie rods and move the wheels to the correct angle i can sort out where the ends of the steering arms need to be.
If my calculations are right the inner wheel needs to turn 4 degrees tighter than the outer, but i need someone to confirm this before i cut and shut the steering arms.
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I thought welded steering arms were an automatic MOT fail ? Definatley would fail a IVA test as loads of discussions on various forums about this.
Paul H
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redsunbeam
Part of things
I can't hear you .............
Posts: 136
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The cut and shut arms are only for a template to have new ones made. They will not be used on the road. I'm hoping to get hold of a second hand set so that i can play with them to get it right before i pay out and get a grown up to make some for me.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,714
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Calling all Rover P5 ownersDez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Jul 27, 2012 10:25:08 GMT
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surely youve put the rack in the wrong place?
if the ackermann was correct beforehand, it should still be right now if the steering arms are the same. youll probably find that the rack needs to be closer to the axle centreline, or its massively too narrow/wide compared to the original steering box/draglink width measurement.
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redsunbeam
Part of things
I can't hear you .............
Posts: 136
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Jul 27, 2012 10:31:22 GMT
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You're sort of right Dez, The width of the rack is spot on, as is the height. Its the front to back position that is different from original. The rack ideally would need to go back about 1 1/2" to keep the same geometry. There is no way to move the rack back, so I need to modify the arms. I have room to extend them forwards the 1 1/2" I need to bring them inline with the rack , they will then need bending out to maintain the line through the front hub pivot to the diff.
Because the line is hard to find/measure I need the wheel angles.
I think that makes sense?
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Last Edit: Jul 27, 2012 10:58:25 GMT by redsunbeam
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