andyborris
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Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,161
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Jul 20, 2012 21:15:07 GMT
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Plumbing a BMW engine into a Triumph.
Plan to use one of those “in hosepipe” tubes that will take the original Triumph water temp sender, that way the dash gauge will still work.
And thinking about the same thing for the Rad Fan sender, trouble is, only room for one tube thing in the top hose!
Will it matter if I put fan one in the bottom hose?
The gauge will still show me the engines temp and the rad fan will switch on if the coolant leaving the rad is too hot.....or am I missing something?
Thanks
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Jul 20, 2012 21:48:43 GMT
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Is the rad fan one a switch or a temp sender? If a sender, is it the same scale/range as the Triumph one? You'd be able to use the same sender for both if so, I presume? If not, you could maybe get something made up with 2 sender bosses side by side.
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring. |
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andyborris
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Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,161
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Jul 20, 2012 22:27:12 GMT
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Pretty sure that the rad fan sensor is just a switch, (on @/ off@).
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Is the rad fan one a switch or a temp sender? If a sender, is it the same scale/range as the Triumph one? You'd be able to use the same sender for both if so, I presume? If not, you could maybe get something made up with 2 sender bosses side by side. Don't think that would work as both the triumph dash and the BMW ECU would want to supply the sender with current. They would have to be kept separate I reckon. After a lot of fannying about last year with senders and fan switches, I reckon the best place for the dash gauge sender is close as possible to the thermostat and for the fan sender/switch either in or near the top of the rad if the fan's on a switched supply, or put a boss in the rad about half way down or at the bottom if on a permanent live feed. If you have the fan switch in the top hose with a live feed it runs on for ages after switching off the engine. |
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Ah, hadn't considered that. In that case, given that originality isn't a concern.. I would probably find a radiator with a boss for the fan switch conveniently built in. Intact, when looking at something like this before, a Volvo 740 one was perfect for my application but for the unusually high price for the fan switch it used. It was a push in one that had a screw on collar to compress it into place.
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Last Edit: Jul 21, 2012 1:43:48 GMT by ben711200
...proper medallion man chest wig motoring. |
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,161
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Really just wondering if the bottom hose is an OK place to fit the Rad Fan sender, it'll read the water temp as it leaves the rad and so will only switch on if the rad can't cope, i.e. traffic jams etc.?
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Copey
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Posts: 2,845
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The fan switch on the golf rad in my Capri is at the bottom of the rad, so I can't see it being a problem in the bottom hose
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1990 Ford Sierra Sapphire GLSi with 2.0 Zetec
1985 Ford Capri 3.0 (was a 2.0 Laser originally)
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djefk
Part of things
Posts: 844
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Jul 21, 2012 13:28:23 GMT
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So basically - Will it work? Yes. Is it the ideal place for it? Probs not as you want the rad fan coming on as soon as the engine hits a predefined temp, I can't see how you can accurately control the coolant temp if you're waiting for it to go through the rad before measuring it.
Let us know what solution you decide to go for - The alternative would be using a thermostat switch with a copper probe that goes into the top hose where it's connected to the rad inlet. Kenlowe (And I'm sure many others) do one that you can adjust yourself. - This would be my preference in your situation.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,161
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Jul 21, 2012 16:07:40 GMT
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Let us know what solution you decide to go for Won't be any time soon, hit a major problem. Need to source a idle pulley wheel for a Poly Vee type belt. Had to remove the power steering pump from the engine to get it to fit, now find that the auto tensioner won't work, need to put a idle wheel in place of the power steerings pump pulley! I'm going to start a new thread, I think (from looking at fuzzy pictures on Ebay!) that a Mercedes 190 idler pulley might work, but I need someone with a 190 to get some dimensions for me. |
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What's wrong with the original engine fan bolted onto the engine or is this a different motor to the m50/52?
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,161
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Jul 22, 2012 10:07:58 GMT
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What's wrong with the original engine fan bolted onto the engine or is this a different motor to the m50/52? No space unfortunately, so got a huge electric fan in front of the rad. I couldn't keep the Triumph rad either! Now got a E30 325i rad. |
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Jul 22, 2012 14:11:13 GMT
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Jul 22, 2012 14:27:05 GMT
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Ah the old top or bottom hose debate ;D bottom will work but top is better IMHO (and 90% + of manufacturers agree with me here), i've used the inline fan switches before with no problems a few times before  mainly Pacet ones with a OE switch then alterd as i run the vehical in, mainly cos ive been using a totaly differant rad to the engines origional so some tweaking of the on and off temps are usually needed. |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,194
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Jul 24, 2012 10:09:28 GMT
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Ah the old top or bottom hose debate ;D bottom will work but top is better IMHO (and 90% + of manufacturers agree with me here), i've used the inline fan switches before with no problems a few times before mainly Pacet ones with a OE switch then alterd as I run the vehical in, mainly cos ive been using a totaly differant rad to the engines origional so some tweaking of the on and off temps are usually needed. Whilst I agree why is the top hose a better bet? I guess it is to do with the temperature the engine is actually at? Regarding your radiator switch what radiator are you fitting? That may have a provision for a fan switch. |
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Last Edit: Jul 24, 2012 10:10:54 GMT by ChasR
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mainly Pacet ones with a OE switch then alterd as i run the vehical in, mainly cos ive been using a totaly differant rad to the engines origional so some tweaking of the on and off temps are usually needed.