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Jul 18, 2012 16:06:27 GMT
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Afternoon,
I’ve got a 1986 Metro Turbo. I guess someone’s got to, right?
Now that the body has been welded from lips to bumholes, I’d like to try and revive the hard rubber grey bodykit/bumpers/boot spoiler. In my time on RR I’ve noticed Linseed oil is the weapon of choice, so I go on the ‘bay to look for some.
So, what do you use ‘Boiled’ or ‘Raw’? Or is there little difference? How do you apply it too, I presume just a dab on a bit of rag and run it over?
Ta muchly.
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Linseed oil queryBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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Jul 18, 2012 16:13:57 GMT
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I've only heard of boiled linseed oil being used, and that's what I've used. It works great - get a clean rag, get some on the cloth (I tend to just put the rag over the top then tip the bottle up), then apply it by rubbing it into the plastic. I tend to go in little circles to "massage" it into the plastic. Take care with the rags afterwards, as apparently they can spontaneously combust under the right conditions! Note: I am the worst at car cleaning. Someone else might have a better technique than me! ;D The difference is amazing, and it lasts too. Certainly longer than that Back to Black toss. Edit: I think most DIY shops would sell it, if you don't want to wait / pay for postage. Also, Metro Turbos are cool.
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Last Edit: Jul 18, 2012 16:15:17 GMT by BenzBoy
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Jul 18, 2012 16:17:19 GMT
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You're a gent. Thank you.
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Jul 19, 2012 10:20:39 GMT
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I use boiled too but I have a mate who used plain because he found it in his shed, the effect was much the same. You can see the effect in this pic: This was done a month ago and it looks much the same now. My technique is much the same as Benzboy's but once I've gone over the whole area, I go over it again with a clean rag to remove any excess. It stays sticky for a while so is best done when you're not planning on driving for a couple of hours and when it doesn't look like rain (good luck with that one).
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Jaguar S-Type 3.0 SE
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Jul 19, 2012 10:45:34 GMT
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Linseed oil is great, but another option is peanut butter. Honestly!
Work it in with a soft cloth or even a toothbrush on more detailed areas...and buff up with a clean cloth afterwards. The oil in it works in much the same way as linseed oil. You're best using smooth too, chunky peanut butter is best left for eating. ;D
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tome30
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,001
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Jul 19, 2012 11:27:19 GMT
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On my bumpers. I cleaned, back to blacked, buffed, rubbed linseed (quite thickly) then wiped of excess. Looked lovely, and lasted well. Oh it was boiled I used.
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Lawsy
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,615
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Jul 19, 2012 11:42:11 GMT
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Peanut butter too.. And it lasted months too
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Jul 19, 2012 12:07:52 GMT
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The other thing about linseed oil is that it's hard to shift the smell off your hands so wear gloves.
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Jaguar S-Type 3.0 SE
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Jul 19, 2012 12:47:23 GMT
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The other thing about linseed oil is that it's hard to shift the smell off your hands so wear gloves. I think that's another vote for peanut butter.
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Jul 19, 2012 12:50:14 GMT
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The other thing about linseed oil is that it's hard to shift the smell off your hands so wear gloves. I think that's another vote for peanut butter. I hate peanut butter. The smell and texture makes me heave so I stick with linseed. I'm told ground nut oil works very well too and that's dirt cheap and easily available. I imagine that it is the active ingredient in peanut butter for our purposes.
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Jaguar S-Type 3.0 SE
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Jul 19, 2012 13:05:20 GMT
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Excellent replies and thanks for the info. Hmmm, what's cheaper peanut butter or ground nut oil...
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Jul 19, 2012 13:13:23 GMT
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Following the above... Asda have Sun Pat on offer at £1 for 340g. Unfortunately, all the even cheaper value stuff is crunchy...
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kcchan
Part of things
Posts: 127
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Jul 21, 2012 18:23:29 GMT
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Just a note, be careful to keep linseed oil to just the plastics. I've got some on the paint before and it hardens leaving a residue that needs a fair bit of rubbing to get off. Easier to be careful than to have to rub loads of it off after.
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drdick
Part of things
Posts: 359
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