stevek
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 728
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Hi,
I want to strip the paint and lacquer from some old alloys. I have the discs for removing paint and polishing up the front faces but I think paint stripper will be the only way to remove paint from the nooks, grooves and backs of the wheels.
Is there any particular type (active ingredient?) that I should look out for or will any old stuff I find do a similar job? Obviously I would like to avoid damaging the alloy so is there certain stuff to avoid too? I did a little research and got confused, apparently 'dichloromethane' was the good (but dangerous) stuff but it became restricted to trade use and is not available for DIY use anymore. I wasn't convinced some of the you-tube videos I watched were worth using as a guide if you know what I mean.
Is the best method to dab on some 'thick' stuff or can they be dipped in some sort of tank/drum?
If I can collect some info together I'll write up a 'how to' as I refurb them, I'd rather avoid having to write a 'how NOT to' ;D.
Cheers, Steve.
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tome30
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,001
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Last Edit: Jul 9, 2012 21:13:54 GMT by tome30
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Another vote for the standard (green tin) Nitro Mors here, used it on 3 sets of '80s and '90s alloys with no problems.
Do make sure you abrade or cut into the surface of the old paint first though, or you'll just waste a lot of paint stripper trying to get thought the lacquer and topcoat.
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sparkyt
Posted a lot
selling stuff
Posts: 1,767
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Having done a few now I just get them refurb by pros as its just takes an age pay for them to be blasted is not a lot .. save you soooooo much time ..
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Nitromors used to be evil stuff and brilliant at removing paint. The new "improved" stuff is absolute wibblepoo!
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Yer the green stuff is rubbish now, l use the cheap stuff from B&Q it's better, l've got mine to do soon might get them done by pro's as it takes so long to strip them properly  |
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Star chem synstrip makes nitromors seem like moisturiser
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Yer the green stuff is rubbish now, l use the cheap stuff from B&Q it's better, l've got mine to do soon might get them done by pro's as it takes so long to strip them properly |
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I struggled to remove the paint from a Land Rover alloy panels using anything available from DIY stores etc. In the end went to motor paint factors and got some of the strongest stuff they had. Still difficult to remove and needed a lot of "elblow grease" as well.
I learnt my leason as the cost of stripper worker out quite expensive and if i was doing wheels then I'd have somebody else bead blast them instead - and probably similar price. In fact a few years ago I had a set of five MKII Escort RS2000 wheels blasted, primed and painted with aircraft paint for £30. To be fair though it was done as a "foreigner" by the local RAF base (MU16) - bet there aren't many wheels finished in genuine Harrier silver :-)
Paul H
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stuey
Posted a lot
ram thruster 4000
Posts: 1,010
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when using paint stripper I tend to wrap it in polythene to stop the stripper drying out- I know it can be hard to do this with a wheel but it does stop you from using so much of the stuff and makes the process much quicker recently did the shell of my fiat with just 4 litres-  (see back of car for inexhaustable supply of plastic sheeting. |
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Last Edit: Jul 10, 2012 8:33:28 GMT by stuey
1987 fiat 126-nearly actually done!
1972 beetle - lawn art
2003 z4 daily-new wheels a comin!
2008 R56 Mini cooper "mental Mickey"
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The more warning sings, skulls and dead animals on the back, the better the stuff. Simple rule ;D What helps with modern paint strippers is to wrap the wheels or whatever you want to strip in sheets of plastic foil to stop the good fumes from escaping (i.e. the stripper from drying out). And then leave em for a day or so. The warmer, the better.
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Jul 10, 2012 19:40:01 GMT
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In the past I've tried Nitromors and some stuff I got from Wickes. Both were pretty much a waste of time even when the surface was roughened.
Por strip from Frost wasn't bad though.
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Jul 11, 2012 12:09:41 GMT
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Dichlormethane aka methylene chloride, was the active bit, but is banned or being phased out from DIY stuff. Strippers using somethng else seem less effective. You can buy pure DCM and use it in a plastic tank, with water floated on top to stop it evaporating. Would need a lot for a wheel though...
I've got 5l of it in the shed, it's very fierce when pure! Going to see if it'll make a glop with wallpaper paste, prob won't work but worth a shot.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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Jul 11, 2012 12:17:15 GMT
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I've got some star chem synstryp to have a go with on my doors and stuff, not done it yet but following pictures convinced me its better than nitromors!    Pictures borrowed from alramone. |
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1977 datsun 810 180b estate |
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Jul 12, 2012 19:10:59 GMT
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When I restored cars we would score the paint all over, lay it on thick and wrap in plastic overnight. Next day wash it off with thinners and scrape with a scraper
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Jul 12, 2012 19:45:27 GMT
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When I restored cars we would score the paint all over, lay it on thick and wrap in plastic overnight. Next day wash it off with thinners and scrape with a scraper Aye, sounds about right...  |
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Jul 13, 2012 14:18:59 GMT
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just had a gallon of por-strip turn up today, i'll report back on it, last tin of nitromors was specially for auto paint, don't remember it being any more effective,certainly nitromors nothing more then hand cleaner, doesn't even burn anymore....lol
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mudpud
Part of things
Posts: 109
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Jul 13, 2012 14:43:42 GMT
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Agreed, used Nitromors professionally for years in the antique restoration trade,wicked stuff
but alas not any more ,I think the elf and saftey boys killed it.Mind you after a day using the old stuff you felt as if you had drunk 10 pints! Happy days.
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Jul 13, 2012 15:30:17 GMT
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when using paint stripper I tend to wrap it in polythene to stop the stripper drying out- I know it can be hard to do this with a wheel but it does stop you from using so much of the stuff and makes the process much quicker recently did the shell of my fiat with just 4 litres- (see back of car for inexhaustable supply of plastic sheeting. Build thread required, NAOW!!!! Oh and +1 for Nitromors, it works well. |
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Koos
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stevek
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 728
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Jul 24, 2012 23:19:00 GMT
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Hi All,
Thanks for all the input so far, a quick bump incase others have more to add.
Nitromores seems to be getting very mixed reviews, everyone seemed to like its old recipe but reaction to the current one seems very mixed. Can people be clear if they are reviewing the current or old version as its seems to be vastly different?
The Star chem synstrip seems to be winning some votes but when I looked for it it said 'for trade use ONLY' everywhere, are people managing to buy it for DIY ok?
Frosts Por-strip has a good recommendation too from mk2polobloke and Hardtop will be trying it out when he gets a chance so we'll see what he thinks.
Rob recons the B&Q stuff is as good as any, I would be interested in anyone else that has tried cheaper options however they turned out, cheap is a nice bonus (unless its rubbish).
As for technique, scoring the surface and wrapping in plastic that seems highly recommended, any more of these tips please add!, I'm looking at doing a set of alloys but lets keep general bodywork stripping tips coming along too. Like I say I'll try to compile at into a guide when I try it out.
-Steve-
PS. Those saying to just pay and get them blasted, you may have a point. I like to try doing things myself where possible but sometimes outsourcing is best. If that's your opinion too then please say after all its a valid option.
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Last Edit: Jul 24, 2012 23:25:49 GMT by stevek
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