Bodywork Advice, what grade/grit papers?

What paint ? 2k celly or base and clear ?

id go for 2k primer as it more stable and all primers sould be ok for glass as you can treat as like filler but if it plassic it will need adision promoter as for paper for filler 40-80 but finsh 120-180by block old stable paint 240-320 da feather well backto lose edges, after primer personal prefence 400 w/d blocked them 800 w/d blocked the back over 800 by hand at wet flatting keep very clean and dry well if you any powdery bits that is potenal dust prob any bare metal spray with etch

a good 2K primer which is properly cured should be a good base for celly and some 2K primers are non-Isocyanate so you can treat them like any other paint - ie with basic care but not with massive fear LOL.

If its still available and still non-Iso I would recommend Lechler TI Green as a very high build primer. It will need a direct-to-metal product under it like an epoxy but it builds well, sands easy and leaves a nice finish. Its also not bad priced.

I wouldn't go as fine as 800 if I was going on with celly as celly is a purely keyed adhesion when applied over cured primer. 2K and other modern paints chemically bond with the primer in some magical way meaning they need less "tooth" in the key to stick.

I'd probably stick with 600 as final stage of prep on your cured primer for celly top coat.

2K top can be used wet on wet on 2K primer though, can't it?

I hope I wasn't looking like I was saying it needed no mechanical key, just that it needs less than celly or 1K does so you can flat your primer finer with 2K than with old school paints.

I'll try a 2.0 tip next time I use Ti - I think last I used it was with a 1.8 and it was quite orange-peely. But as its easy to sand I was happy enough, but it does mean you waste material!

good info / tips / thoughts.

I've another paint job (or three) coming up, I'm going to get one right sooner or later...