Del
South East
Posts: 1,448
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Sept 25, 2011 21:12:22 GMT
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I can do a few bits and pieces, such as change a starter motor and fit a new head gasket (with a bit of help), but so far I've been lucky with wheel bearings.
But the rears on my Fiesta are on their way out, there was a 'ticking' which has slowly got louder and become a 'crunching'. I'm planning to get them done in a couple of weeks (it's payday then), but am I risking them giving way?
How can I tell when they're about to let go?
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Sept 25, 2011 22:12:05 GMT
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When you see the wheel go past you at speed, thats how you know youve left it too late.
Seriously, theres no way of telling. If they're making a noise then they need changing.
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R.S. Autotech. Servicing/Repairs/Diagnostics.
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Sept 27, 2011 21:49:28 GMT
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Jack it up. Grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o' clock, and try to rock it. Any movement and they need changing. If no movement, spin the wheel and listen for ANY grating noise - if your unsure, spin another wheel and listen for any difference, i.e it's noticeably quieter and sounds smoother is operation.  You can tell when wheel bearings are worn when driving anyway, the grating noise get's alot worse when more weight is put on that particular wheel, i.e when cornering. |
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1992 Sierra XR4x4
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Sept 29, 2011 21:59:10 GMT
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Bearings are only about £10 a side, so its worth doing them just as a precaution
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I don't WANT TO DIE A GROWN UP!
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Sept 30, 2011 5:59:09 GMT
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A duff bearing can also cause a wheel to lock solid mind.
The grating noise your hearing if a wheel bearing should get louder the faster you go and be unaffected by what gear you are in or whether braking or accelerating
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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bmw156
Part of things
Posts: 796
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Sept 30, 2011 11:49:05 GMT
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a while ago on my renault 19, i had a rear wheel bearing "go".
driving along, suddenly the car felt like it was being slowed. then crunch, and fine again, slowing, and crunch,
I had no idea, it was on its way out as i always have music on! managed to get it home about 1 mile away, but it was scary lol.
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Del
South East
Posts: 1,448
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Sept 30, 2011 12:03:56 GMT
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Thanks everyone. Just been to get the bearing kits and they're getting sorted Sunday.
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Del
South East
Posts: 1,448
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Holy thread resurrection, Batman!
Well, I did these bearings a year ago, with a mechanically-minded mate of mine, but when I went to get some new tyres fitted last week, the service centre said that the nearside rear bearing was noisy.
Now, I will admit that we only changed the bearings themselves, not the cups (I trusted my mate who said they were fine). Will that have had an effect on the new bearings?
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They are matched when they are made, so they will run true and smooth (thats easiest way to explain it)
Mismatched items wear quicker,and eventually fall apart.
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Its advisable to change both inner and outer bearing races at the same time otherwise it can wear out quickly again.
If the bearing has become noisy once more change it again.
I suspect your mate didn't want to change the outer race of the bearings I'm assuming they are taper roller type here as the cup part has to be pressed in and out of the hub and that can be a bit of a pain if you don't have access to a press. My advice is to take the hub of and get your local friendly garage to press the bearings in and out it will take them seconds and should cost very little.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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Del
South East
Posts: 1,448
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Thank you fellas!
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Oct 10, 2012 21:45:22 GMT
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Right rear bearing removal
Remove hub
take out the old taper bearings
clean out the old grease
look inside the hub and you will see 2 x silver looking rings these will have to be removed....very easy to do at home.Look agian inside hte hub and you should see between the 2 silver rings what looks like a channel.right what you have to do now is to use a cold chisle and a hammer to drift one side out at a time,turn ove rand do the other side.
Fitting of the new silver rings off the NEW bearing is relativly simple.
Place hub on somewhere like a workbench and place silver ring on the hub where it sit,tap it down evenly with your hammer making sure it is level,now you will notice that you can not hammer it as it is now inside hte hub so you will now need the OLD silver rings place this on top of the new ring and hammer home making sure the old ring does not get stuck,if you are afraid of htis then CAREFULLY use a drift or a socket to tap it home,repaet on the other side,GREASE the new wheel bearing and fit on hte cer NOT forgetting the split pin,if no split pin is required then tighten the retaining nut to the specific tourqe.
Road test
if ok
the award yourself with either a cup of something or a BEER
Dave
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Oct 11, 2012 17:06:28 GMT
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Right rear bearing removal Remove hub take out the old taper bearings clean out the old grease look inside the hub and you will see 2 x silver looking rings these will have to be removed....very easy to do at home.Look agian inside hte hub and you should see between the 2 silver rings what looks like a channel.right what you have to do now is to use a cold chisle and a hammer to drift one side out at a time,turn ove rand do the other side. Fitting of the new silver rings off the NEW bearing is relativly simple. Place hub on somewhere like a workbench and place silver ring on the hub where it sit,tap it down evenly with your hammer making sure it is level,now you will notice that you can not hammer it as it is now inside hte hub so you will now need the OLD silver rings place this on top of the new ring and hammer home making sure the old ring does not get stuck,if you are afraid of htis then CAREFULLY use a drift or a socket to tap it home,repaet on the other side,GREASE the new wheel bearing and fit on hte cer NOT forgetting the split pin,if no split pin is required then tighten the retaining nut to the specific tourqe. Road test if ok the award yourself with either a cup of something or a BEER Dave What he said, but might I add ....... When fitting the new rings, if you are a bit dubious about getting them flush, i use a club hammer placed 'flat' over the ring, then i tap them in by hitting the club hammer head, this gave me an even surface to hit, plus the club hammer head didn't slip like a large socket can do. Also tighten the retaining nut up (a bit tighter than hand tight) give the hub a good spin to 'settle' the bearing, this will allow you to enure the bearing is properly located before final torquing. |
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Oct 11, 2012 19:44:36 GMT
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Right rear bearing removal Remove hub take out the old taper bearings clean out the old grease look inside the hub and you will see 2 x silver looking rings these will have to be removed....very easy to do at home.Look again inside the hub and you should see between the 2 silver rings what looks like a channel.right what you have to do now is to use a cold chisel and a hammer to drift one side out at a time,turn over rand do the other side. Fitting of the new silver rings off the NEW bearing is relatively simple. Place hub on somewhere like a workbench and place silver ring on the hub where it sit,tap it down evenly with your hammer making sure it is level,now you will notice that you can not hammer it as it is now inside the hub so you will now need the OLD silver rings place this on top of the new ring and hammer home making sure the old ring does not get stuck,if you are afraid of this then CAREFULLY use a drift or a socket to tap it home,repeat on the other side,GREASE the new wheel bearing and fit on the Car NOT forgetting the split pin,if no split pin is required then tighten the retaining nut to the specific torque. Road test if OK the award yourself with either a cup of something or a BEER Dave What he said, but might I add ....... When fitting the new rings, if you are a bit dubious about getting them flush, I use a club hammer placed 'flat' over the ring, then I tap them in by hitting the club hammer head, this gave me an even surface to hit, plus the club hammer head didn't slip like a large socket can do. Also tighten the retaining nut up (a bit tighter than hand tight) give the hub a good spin to 'settle' the bearing, this will allow you to enure the bearing is properly located before final torquing. As Mechanic of over 30 years I would NOT advocate this at all and I will explain WHY Hitting Hammers together is a right recipe for disaster as Be live you ME the shrapnel that comes off a face of a hammer is like a bullet going off...I Will find a vid of this and prove it ... Secondly OVER tightening a wheel bearing is really a stupid thing to do,all you need to do is as I said and make sure the outer rings are fully in their place,you will know when this is done as the sound changes when tapping the outer home,difficult to put into words but it is true. Over tightening a bearing to settle is as you stated can severely damage that bearing without your knowledge and will without a shadow of a doubt shorten it's life and could cause a catastrophic accident if it collapses in use Dave |
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Oct 11, 2012 20:49:30 GMT
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Who mentioned overtightening?
I completely agree, over tightening a bearing is never a good thing.
However just a quick nip, to spin the hub and settle the bearing first, isn't (unless you are daft enough to use a breaker bar) going to be anywhere near the torque setting.
imho it is completely pointless to re-attatch hub fit all the nuts washers etc, tighten to spec torque,fit locking device (if any) then when you refit the wheel you find the hub is loose?
Oh and ref the hammers ... not an issue if you use copper and hide mallet ...... (should have said in original post)
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Oct 11, 2012 21:08:13 GMT
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I'm with optimusprime on this - hitting hammers together doesn't make them explode - It's a myth - they're not like chisels with mushroomed heads, and the metal just isn't hard enough to explode
Every taper wheel bearing I've ever fitted (that would be specced up to not a lot more than finger tight) has been nipped up quite a lot tighter to make sure the whole thing is settled, then backed off. From memory a lot of manuals specify finger tight, plus a turn, then back it off.
In use the bearing will feel a hell of a lot more force over potholes etc etc, it's really not an issue. I know a few time served mechanics who've each changed a dozen wheelbearings a week for the last 25 years and both of them tighten them up a lot harder than I do and have never had an issue.
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Last Edit: Oct 11, 2012 21:11:37 GMT by cobblers
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Sorry hitting hammers together is a bad idea, at college I tried this whilst training and I was very glad college insisted on safety goggles because the shard of metal left a definate mark on the lens and without them I would probably be blind. I still advocate using a press it will go in square and smoothly if used properly. Only yesterday I got the local garage to press in a spigot bearing into my flywheel and they charged £2. Yes you can do it with drifts and hammers but a press is so so much easier!
As for overtightening I don't think anyone suggested it just nip em up hand tight and then apply the torque wrench.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Hitting the hardened faces of hammers together does make them explode. My dad used to teach metalwork and some idiot in the class banged two hammers together - the resulting shrapnel went into my dad's eye landing him in hospital for weeks, off work for months, and twenty years later he still has poor vision in that eye.
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