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So I'm going to uni in a few weeks, and won't be able to take the car as I'm staying in halls and have nowhere to park it and can't afford to pay for it to be parked somewhere. So it will be left at home in the garage. What can I do to keep the mechanics and engine from seizing up, my course at uni is about 7 years in total so might be out of use for a while. Car is a Triumph Herald with a 1500 spitfire engine. Am I best to get my dad to take it out for a spin every so often, say once every couple of weeks, and generally keep it going (will probably cost me keeping MOT'd and in working order etc.) Or do I just leave it, and if so what should I do to preserve it? Like do I need to drain it of oil or anything like that? (it will no doubbt drain itself after that long but still  ) |
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Last Edit: Aug 28, 2011 0:56:18 GMT by yantorsen
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7 years with current yearly prices? sounds ridiculously expensive!
Perhaps remove the wheels and cling wrap them to stop the tyres perishing?
If you plan to lay it up, that is.
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7 years is the length of your course, but won't you want to come home and drive the car every holidays? So the actual layup period will be something like 6 months at a stretch? To be honest, if you are truly not going to drive it at all for 7 years then I would recommend selling it. I'm sure your parents don't want the thing filling up their garage for 7 years and never being used!
If you are going to drive it on holidays and so forth, then 6 month stretches of storage are not too much trouble. Probably just put some fuel stabilizer in, fill up the tank, take the battery out and put it on a trickle charger. Also make sure that the garage is DRY if possible and wash the car and allow it to dry outside before you put it away.
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Few things i've picked up from folk over the years.
Dry garage, then get some of those moisture traps, they wont last the whole 7 years so get the folks to change them when they're spent (Depending on size and dampness). I've used them and cant rate them highly enough, u'd be suprised what water they collect even from a car you think is dry.
If it's not going to be run at all, leave the oil as it is. But be ready to change it as soon as it's back on the road. Turning the engine by hand when you're home is always good. If the battery is charge and ok, disconnect it. Hard to say what condition it will be in after 7 years doing nothing, be prepaired to change it worse case, Mine have been alright for upto 3 years but never tried any longer than that.
A brake fluid change before it goes away wont go amiss. Brake fluid is (somefancylongword) and likes to hold moisture, which over time will help to sieze all the brakes up good (did with me). Fresh fluid will have less moisture and help keep the brakes free.
Parking brake off, would help if when u're home u work it on and off a few times to help keep it free. Same for clutch, On that subject, grease on all the bits that should be greased to help keep them free, linkages, cables, joints etc.
Covers on the body can cause the paint to craze, even breathable ones (i've actually had this happen to me first hand, that's why I don't cover anymore). All I do now is keep dusting the car and it's been much better.
Tyres could get flatspots after 7 years, But then add 7 years to the current age of the tyres, do u want to be rolling on X many year old tyres when u get back? If not don't worry and be prepaired for new ones, if u don't mind. Maybe get some curse word ones to sit it on, stack the good ones and put a breathable cover on like hesian sack material. I actually had an email from a chap at Avon tyres called Ken Tucker about this when I asked about best storage for my winter tyres. But since deleted the email.
That's all I can think of at the mo
*edit* and watch out for mice, they can write a car off!
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Last Edit: Aug 28, 2011 8:45:23 GMT by Deleted
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ezzysi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,189
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You'd probably want to be changing all fluids before laying it up too, especially coolant and brake fluid etc (old brake fluid absorbs water and plays havoc with cylinders etc)
Pop it up on stands in the garage to get the weight off the suspension and get a thick coat of wax on the bodywork/chrome etc but don't polish it back off. And fresh grease in any grease points etc
An old pillowcase filled up with rocksalt left inside the car is a cheap way to soak up any damp and prevent mold forming on your interior, keep an eye on it though when your at home and recycle the salt by shoving it in the oven to dry it out if its got too damp.
Basically the more work you put into prep before it goes in the garage will be repaid 10 times over when it comes out in 7 years time.
"edit" beaten to it by weblefeck,
I think the term for brake fluid is "hydroscopic" which basically means it absorbs water.
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Last Edit: Aug 28, 2011 8:59:31 GMT by ezzysi
1991 Mk2 Golf Gti 8v
2005 Passat tdi (daily)
1971 Mk1 Escort
2004 Touran (her's)
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If you have the option of getting your dad to take it for a pootle round the lanes every couple weeks then I'd just do that.. If insurance doesn't allow that, then I'd be at least be getting him to start it once in a while. As Waveman said, leaving a car for a couple months at a time isn't going to do much harm. Just leave the handbrake off  |
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring. |
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Aug 28, 2011 10:28:16 GMT
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I'd leave it up on axle stands (front & back) to prevent tyres developing flat spots. Do a complete fluids change before laying it up and give the ignition system a dousing in WD40, and it should be OK for months at a time.
Just budget for having to change the apparently unworn tyres at some point due to the age of the rubber.
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1953 Minor (Long term project)
PT Cruiser
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Aug 28, 2011 14:30:20 GMT
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Awesome, cheers for all the tips everyone, very useful, hadn't even thought of most of these ha.
Basically I will be back in the holidays (christmas, easter and summer) and insurance doesnt run out til feb anyway so will keep it on the road with my dad taking it out for day trips occasionally in term time. However when my insurance runs out, I'm not sure it's worth paying ~£400/year insurance + mot + mot work + other maintenance just for driving in the holidays. Is it possible to get like temporary classic car insurance?
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Aug 28, 2011 18:35:53 GMT
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Not sure but you might fall fowl of the new continous insurance rules if you have it taxed by only temporarily insured.
If the car is taxed it must also be insured. If not insurance, it must be SORN.
Lewis
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Sept 1, 2011 18:35:37 GMT
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If storing for more than a month or so at a time, I'd strongly suggest changing the oil - when used it contains moisture and acids which can cause corrosion in a stored engine. There are 'fogging' oils which care supposed to release a rust inhibitor. Get the engine warm (take it for a good 30 miles drive ideally) , change the oil, and run it until warm again.
If, when you come to start the car, it's low on compression it's possible that the valves have a little rust on the seats - it should clear up after a few miles.
Changing the brake fluid is - as already suggested - a great move.
Fresh coolant might help (since antifreeze contains a corrosion inhibitor) but isn't quite as important.
Over-inflate the tyres too - 45psi should help to reduce flat spots.
If you still use points (as opposed to electronic ignition) some WD40 on them before you go away should help to keep the contacts clean - it helps to gently turn the engine so that they are closed too - they can corrode in storage and when you come to start it you won't have a spark.
Putting the battery on a trickle charger is essential - check the electrolyte level at the beginning of every holiday if the battery has removable caps.
Just a thought - your course is 7 years, but will you be staying in halls for all 7? Most universities (campus universities excluded) will only provide hall spaces for the first year, and you move into private rented accommodation after that - in which case, parking is much easier.
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Sept 1, 2011 18:39:50 GMT
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clutch can get stuck on over long periods, not much you can do about that really, not sure if a squirt of brake disc cleaner would help or if it would effect the friction plate?
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Sept 1, 2011 21:41:21 GMT
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Doubt it would do either TBH - it's just a very volatile solvent, so wouldn't stay there for more than a few minutes.
If the clutch is cable operated you can prop the pedal down to prevent it sticking - however, the herald is hydraulic, so that won't work (the master cylinder is likely to be damaged if you do).
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Sept 1, 2011 23:40:41 GMT
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Wow, lots of excellent information here guys, thank you very much.
jrevillug, like you say the course is 7 years but I will only be in halls for probably the first year, maybe the second year (it is a campus uni, of sorts) but not after that. However either way I'm likely to be living near to the university i.e. less than a 10 minute walk, and there isn't actually any parking nearer than a 10 minute walk away from the university because of it's location, so realistically a car isn't going to be much use. Also if it goes wrong, I won't have my dad, or his tools to help me lol.
I think I'm certainly going to keep it going and iunsured until my insurance runs out in feb, but get my dad to take it out occasionally and do some of the things stated above.
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mk5tom
Part of things
Posts: 15
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From my experiance the thing that you have to worry about more than anything else is damp/rust if the car is going to be just standing around. I'd get the car on axle stands, take off the wheels, hose off all the mud etc from the underside, arches etc, check all the underseal to see if theres any lifting up and remove if nec. Then once dry waxoil(or cover in oil) the underside. Most mechanicals are easy to fix or replace (and cheaper), old engines will be happy if left for months at a time as long as you are carefull when starting them back up. ie take the plugs out, oil down the bores, turn over to get oil pressure, plugs back in (new ones if you are on it + new oil + filter) blah blah... I've left a pinto over a year and it's started straight up no problem and a cossie YB 2 years and both been in perfect working order. If its just going to sit in the corner outside by the end of 7 years it'll prob be pretty rusty if not completely fubar'd, if its in a DRY garage I wouldn't worry about it too much and just leave it till you are ready to use it. Good luck with it anyway  |
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If you can get a dehumidifier this will stop damp getting in, put it in the car for best result and open the windows a bit. Would be good to take it out once a month just to stop clutch sticking and brakes seizing. Oh and disconect the battery if no one has already said. Funnly the worst that could happen is that it becomes a winter home for mice as they racke havock with interiors and wiring looms  l know! |
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Sept 2, 2011 10:15:44 GMT
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get your dad insured with you as named driver,
the insurance will be much less and it'll be covered
correctly too afaik.
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Sept 2, 2011 11:54:11 GMT
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make sure dad doesnt take it out when the roads are wet /muddy
and consider that a quick start up will make the exhaust damp inside , i like to park mine up after a nice run so that the exh is hot all through and hopefully dry inside , if you cant run for a good while id just spin it on the starter to get some oil round it and work the clutch pedal
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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l know!
