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Paint PolishingDeleted
@Deleted
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So, I'm at a bit of a milestone with project Gothwagen. The majority of the paint (Dacrylate Implamel, coach enamel) is at a stage where it just needs a final cutting back and polishing. I now have a machine polisher thanks the generosity of a club member. However, I'm a bit stumped at how to progress. The repeated advice I've found online for this paint is to just use the appropriate colour of T-Cut because the paint is so damned tough that normal cutting compound just won't do much. With how long it took me to flat back the roof by hand I can believe it too.  The final coat is of course a little brush strokey here because it hadn't fully dried, but I'm satisfied it's no worse than the finish you get with some spray paint before polishing and the majority of the car is even better still with the sides of the car only having a slight foggy appearance from the tiny brush strokes there.  The bonnet is the worst panel, still needs work, but even that doesn't look too bad now.  This is his best side, frustratingly close to being properly shiny.  So... very definitely at the polishing stage, but what to use? Should I just wade in with the T-Cut and the polishing machine and see what happens? Trying to get a definitive and affordable answer from Internetland is proving difficult on this one, there are a *lot* of opinions and products. |
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G3 is what i would use with a polisher, although i still think its gonna look brush painted :S
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I'd be tempted to start off wet sanding, get rid of the brush strokes, make it all look matt with no glossy streaks then buff off with some G3 as above. I used to paint narrowboats with the same paint and we used to use gloss rollers, wet sand 1200 grit then polish and they would come out looking like they had been sprayed.
I'll be doing the standard the same way, i've done a few coats on roof now i'm flatting it off ready for a few more. Keep an eye on my thread over the next day or 2 and you should see what i'm achieving.
Polishing isn't designed to remove a large amount of paint to get a flat finish. You look at pro's who do great paint jobs they will still wet sand it before polishing.
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1977 datsun 810 180b estate |
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What Damien said really, I have no experience with this type of paint but I've had every other kind of cack sprayed on cars over the years and you need to wet sand all the imperfections out before you get onto the compounding.
G3 is pretty "old school" but its probably about ideal for the paint you've used.
I thought coach enamel couldn't be sanded and polished once cured though? Tell me more, every day is a school day.
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Normally you can't cut & polish synthetic enamels. Might be lucky if it's very well cured/aged. One of the penalties of it's cheapness.
Normal thing is to flat back and spray the last coat well, you live with the gun finish (or roller etc).
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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barty
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,088
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i sprayed a car a few years ago with enamel paint, i only had a cheap compressor and done all the paint outside in the heat of the summer, it was soo hot and sunny that day that the paint almost dried before it hit the car and the finish was very matt black. Like i said it was a spray job on the cheap and it was my 1st attempt so after a week or two i rubbed it down with wet and dry then used t cut then finished off with a good polish. The finish was really good and i felt really proud of it but it was a lot of work.
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Normally you can't cut & polish synthetic enamels. I've successfully done it when the paint was very fresh and only a light cut & polish. |
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Paint PolishingDeleted
@Deleted
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Is this G3? cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290416913018 It's a polish I've not had suggested to me before. The paint flats down really nicely, especially on the side panels of the car. There's enough thickness of paint for me to be confident that with a fair few hours I can get a good finish. As much as I hate using them, I may invest in a fine roller for the very final coat to see if that helps get a good smoothness of finish before polishing. In theory, the smoother the paint can be before polishing either through application or flatting back or both, the better as I understand it. As for not being able to cut and polish this sort of paint, the opinions I'd been given so far was that applied by roller/spray you don't need to, but that you can if you're willing to put the man hours in. It's certainly been a learning experience, I certainly don't complain about the cost of decent resprays anymore. |
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Thats the stuff they also do a squirty bottle type one, plenty of water and it'll do the job, but you need to get paint flat and upto 1500 grit. I've put some pictures on my photobucket of the paint job on my car, the first few coats I mixed paint up too thick which is leaving me a lot fo work to do, i'm stepping back down to 400 grit to get it flat then going upto 800 ready to apply a few more well thinned coats before final 1200/1500 grit finishing then G3. What I started off with  How first coat should of looked  During sanding can see the orange peel effect   Flattened off with 800 grit    That area i could now go up through grits to 1500 and polish with some g3, if the paint is thick enough. |
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1977 datsun 810 180b estate |
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Paint PolishingDeleted
@Deleted
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That's reassuring, the paint on mine (with the exception of the bonnet) is certainly no worse than the orange peel you dealt with there. I've got up to 2000 grit paper to get everything nice and smooth before polishing. I'm following your build too, I'm quite fond of Standards and the stuff you've been doing to yours.
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Just worked up a bit of a sweat with some t cut hand applied, its certainly easier with polishing machine and g3.  The only other thing i am going to do to it is rough it back up, take it over to garage, pop windows out and do 2 final coats away from dust and wind. But that will wait until shes back on the road. |
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1977 datsun 810 180b estate |
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Paint PolishingDeleted
@Deleted
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At least with a polishing machine you don't end up with one arm bigger than the other  It is a nice finish you've got there, hope mine turns out that well when I get to it. |
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As long as there is enough paint built up it doesn't really matter what the top of it looks like as long as you can sand it back and polish it up without going through. If you haven't its easy enough to put another coat or 2 (thinned right down and rollered on imo) It will be a lot of hard work so it is better to go through the grades than rub it for all eternity with a 1200 grit or g3.
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1977 datsun 810 180b estate |
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As I understand it some types of enamels can be cut to a degree, but synth usually not, it has a cured skin, different structure to other paints. I tried it on some old well-cured Landy paint, it worked OK though not like your full monty 2k shine-up, but didn't work on some other enamel I had. Just went a bit cloudy without your proper deep shine. That was sand, G3, G10.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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the various enamels are a bit of a mystery to me TBH.
I did a Cortina and a Victor in Synth (using celly thinners - what was once called "knacker lacquer") and that polished up OK - but I polished same day or day after it was sprayed, so not on a truely cured paint job.
I didn't say I did it right, I said what I did LOL
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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 That was your SBC one right? I remember that from UK streetracers yonks ago, loverly. Don't get enamels much either, so many names or variations it seems. The original Landy stuff was quality, super tough, not even raw acetone bothered it.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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No, the v8 car was done in two pack. Glad someone remembers that car
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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It is a nice finish you've got there, hope mine turns out that well when I get to it.
That was your SBC one right? I remember that from UK streetracers yonks ago, loverly.