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May 31, 2011 19:38:06 GMT
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These are my alloys. 3 out of 5 have curb rash, some of which is my fault. One has a fairly big chunk missing on the rim too (which isn't my fault, was like that when I got them). I'm thinking I'd like to sort out the rims before I repaint them, but I'm a bit lost as to what's the best way to go about this.      Plan is to keep the alloys in the same colour as they are with polished faces to the spokes. That should mean I don't need to worry about whatever I fill the rough rims with looking off colour since I shan't be polishing the rims. I know this has been asked before, I'd be very surprised if it hadn't, but I can't seem to find the relevant post here and other locations on the internet seem to be a morass of confusing advice and info. Any advice given here will be gratefully received. |
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May 31, 2011 19:45:10 GMT
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If you can wait until after the weekend of the 17th-19th June I should be able to send/show you some pics of a kerb-rash remover that VIP & I are planning to make in order to rectify the kerbing to his wheels.
If it works out, I'd be more than happy to post it to you (if you cover postage costs) because I reckon it'll save a LOT of elbow grease and should also be more accurate in getting a nice even finish.
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May 31, 2011 19:47:48 GMT
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I'm in no rush, and you've piqued my curiosity now. I'm guessing that my wheels are going to take a fair bit of time to refurb anyway so if I do get fidgety I'll set to redoing the two good ones and it'll be mid-June by the time I get to the bad ones.
I've also invested in curb feelers, because I can't park for toffee and the curbs here are nearly as high as the bottom of my doors.
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May 31, 2011 21:15:05 GMT
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Seeing that, I'd probably just wap some chemical metal in and sand it back til it was nice.
That said, I've repaired a lot worse with normal filler because I had to work with what I had within arms reach, and it has lasted years, and sanded back a hell of a lot easier than chemical metal would!
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May 31, 2011 22:01:22 GMT
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Any particular brand of 'chemical metal' that's best to use? When I've asked in motor factors for it they've usually just looked at me like I'm from Mars or that I've made it up.
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Ash
Kinda New
RAWR
Posts: 8
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Yellow Box, Red Label, Plastic Padding Logo.
Made by Loctite.
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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what i would do is file off the rough curbing with a medium grade file, this will remove all the loose chunks and give a better idea of how bad the curbing is. (from the look of it though, they don't look that bad to me) once the rough shap is obtained, you will be able to see which bits require filler. (as others have said, chemical metal is best for any bit chunks (like the bit where your tyre valve is) the rest could be done with regular filler. once done, sand the filler smooth, then key the whole wheel using a scotchpad, then prime if required and repaint. on cheapo alloys I tend to use a single stage, all in one paint, which is self priming and doesnt require lacquer unless you want a gloss finish. www.car-spot.co.uk/item/50668/Tetrosyl+Heat+Resistant+Aluminium+Paint |
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I've always found Chemical Metal a bit like a glorified filler (slightly tougher and slower to set but ultimately nowhere near as strong as I was hoping for) which is probably fine for what you need on the wheels if you go the filler route. My preference for a 'chemical metal' (as in a very strong glue/filler/sealer for metal) is JB Weld.  It's quite expensive in comparison because the tubes are quite small, so maybe not so useful for repairing a set of wheels, but as a general 'metal' repair I've always found it far, far superior to the Plastic Padding stuff. I've repaired radiators, sealed metal fuel pipes and joined metal plates etc....all with great success. I even used it to fill/drill/tap for bolt fixings in fibreglass where my snorkel is fixed to the Delcia. It's bloody strong stuff! It takes 24hrs before it's properly set (quite a long time for a 2 pack process) but well worth it for decent strength. It is quite good for shaping (sanding/forming) too. Sorry if this doesn't answer your wheel dilemma, but if looking into buying a 'chemical metal' then this is worth considering keeping some on the shelf for those odd, awkward jobs. I couldn't be without it! Along with a tube of Loctite thread lock, Araldite 'original' (not the rapid stuff), some liquid gasket and a pot of tippex - all of which go to make up my little tin of emergency fixes/repairs ;D |
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I'd go for the JB weld too, but don't get the fast setting one as its not as good. Ive used JB weld to fill the inlet ports on my cylinder head to make the ports smaller. after a few years running its still good, it has good adhesion to aluminium alloy (with suitable preparation).  |
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I saw a mobile wheel refurb guy doing some once, he used normal body filler.
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1985 Bedford CF2 camper 1991 Volvo 240 Turbo |
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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what you need is some type of "thing" that bolts to the wheel nuts tp cetralise a grnding "thing" to get an even skim of the damaged area? a grinder holy thingy would be prefect (if and when invented) start the grinder swing it round, job jobbed (well in my head it is)  |
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R.I.P photobucket
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Thanks guys, this has been much more informative than other forum trawls. bortaf: That would be a very useful thing, a bit like a really wide lathe combined with a grinder. |
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ratta
Part of things
Posts: 377
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My discs will get rid of that no probs ;D PM me |
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ratta: you're the chap whose name I couldn't remember! I'll be in touch about some of the pads you've been pimping out to the RR masses, but I'm going to wait and see what Mystery Machine has planned first... and probably buy a new exhaust... and other stuff... you know how it is 
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LOL - please don't think it'll be anything particularly fancy....it won't be. But it should be good at dealing with that sort of damage accuratley.
Imagine something a little along the lines of Bortaf's idea, but different at the same time - with a big dose of Heath Robinson thrown in for good measure.
Despite how rough it might sound, I am confident it'll work.
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Last set I did were similar damage to those....
tyre off,
jack up one wheel of the car and put it securely on decent axle stands.
chock the other wheels.
Fit the rim to the raised hub.
start up, put it in 3rd and let the clutch up.
Get out and hold a file to the spinning rim.
Keep hand / hair / clothes clear.
Win.
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1986 Panda 4x4.
1990 Metro Sport.
1999 Ford Escort estate.
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Last set I did were similar damage to those.... tyre off, jack up one wheel of the car and put it securely on decent axle stands. chock the other wheels. Fit the rim to the raised hub. start up, put it in 3rd and let the clutch up. Get out and hold a file to the spinning rim. Keep hand / hair / clothes clear. Win. That's how i skim drum brakes and i've polished laser 4 spokes the same way, the rim only obv ;D i put the sandpaper/polishing rag on a broom handle when i get near the spokes though  |
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R.I.P photobucket
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