luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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Guys, my Mk 2 has been running at the top of the gauge since I got it. I've just changed the thermostat (there wasn't even one in it) and the temp sender on the side of the block. Still shooting up into the red Connected up an after market gauge and still the same.
The radiator doesn't feel particularly hot, but the heater hoses do, even though the heater never really blows out very hot? I've been driving it like this for a while cos I thought the temp sender wasn't working! Now I'm stumped! (And a little bit worried) Could the water pump not be working?
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Heater not hot = blocked heater matrix or more probably, air lock. If you can, remove/loosen the top heater hose and let the air bleed out. Also check the anti freeze percentage in the coolant, that also raises the boiling point of the water.
Overheating = could be a number of things. Ignition timing off, air lock, waterpump blocked, radiator clogged, hose/s collapsed or constricted, engine block waterways restricted, radiator cap spring weakened (allowing water to boil at a lower temperature that usual)
Personally, I would check the rad cap first, as it's the easiest. Escorts I believe have a 7lb pressure cap. If it is not getting up to that pressure the water will overheat.
Hope this helps
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luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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Thanks George, I'll have a look tomorrow and see what's what.
Pete
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A broken pressure cap won't cause the engine to run hot - but it will cause it to boil over at a lower temperature if something else gets the temperature up that high.
I'd suggest buying/beggin/borowing an infra-red thermometer so that you can check the actual temperature that it's running at - it could be an issue with the gauge rather than actually running hot.
I'd agree about the possible causes mentioned - and add that the airflow through the radiator is essential. Does the radiator have any tinware between it and the grille to force the air into the rad? If not, should it have some?
I'd also sugest checking the ignition timing - if it's too far retarded then the engine will lack power, drink fuel, and run much hotter than it should.
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luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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I thought that too so tried it with an aftermarket gauge and it read the same! The rad doesn't even feel like it's getting that hot, running the electric fan does bring the temp down a bit but not by much. Engine doesn't lack power, unless it's even quicker than it is now which I doubt  |
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luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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Mind you it does drink the fuel at a fairly rapid rate  |
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Can't hurt to put a timing light on it though, just to rule it out.
Did the aftermarket gauge include a voltage regulator, and it's own sender unit?
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my rad had a partially blocked core and that was causing the engine to run hot
it was a 2.1 pinto funnily enough
it was checked at feltham rads who told me the above,and recored, problem solved
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luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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Yep, I'll give that a bash. Just wired the gauge up to the battery and then to the new sender! There is a way of checking the sender, but can't remember waht it is! (I'll have a search later) Thnk I'm going to give the system a good flush through tomorrow and see if that makes any difference. Thanks for the replies chaps  Pete |
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luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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Well, gave it all a flush, seems to be running through ok, topped it back up, still the same  Next week i'll have the pipes off Again, try turning the thermostat round (haynes have different pictures, i'm looking at a Cortina and an Escort manual) and see if that makes a difference. Then it's going to the garage cos I'm running out of ideas  Only thing that still doesn't seem right is the heater hoses being red hot but still not blowing very hot out of the heater. Oh and finally the rad isn't get hot at all, just a little warm at the top! Oh well, out of time now so it'll have to wait until next weekend. Thanks for the replies guys. |
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One thing to try is to bypass the heater completely - just remove the heater out & in hoses from the engine end and connect the engine out to the engine in with a short length of pipe.
If that works then you know the problem is within the heater circuit. If there is no change then you have a problem within the engine cooling system.
Are both heater hoses red hot? or just the engine out hose?
Have you recently had the engine out and maybe connected the heater hoses the wrong way round ( top hose from the engine should go to the bottom of the heater, top hose out of the heater should go back to the bottom of the engine ) - remember - hot water rises and if you are putting hot water into the top of the heater matrix it is fighting physics ;D
Keep us informed
George
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Like I said in your other thread, my money would be on a blocked Rad or a water pump. I've known water pump impellers to fall off before so the pump still turns and doesn't leak but no coolant gets circulated.
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R.S. Autotech. Servicing/Repairs/Diagnostics.
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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The heater is fed from the inlet manifold so right from the top of the engine and will be pretty hot then the WP sucks it back out and into the block, if the air's cold from the heater the matrix is blocked, you can still get a flow through the matrix without it fulling curculating. don't turn the stat round ! it will only work one way the spring should be sticking out into the head as you re-assemble. Heater hose position make allmost no differance, the main rad works against physics after all, IE the hot water in the top cold (ish) out the bottom ! take the fan belt off and spin the WP pully if it spins very easyly and it an alloy aftermarket type the chances are the impellers have fallen off the main drive spindle, it's not something that usually happens with the old OE cast iron ones but the impellers on them can rust away to nowt but seeing as the heater rad is blocked my first guess would be blocked main rad as well mind you if the top hose isn't hot i'd be fitting a new state or back to looking at coolant flow (pump)  |
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Last Edit: Apr 3, 2011 14:56:55 GMT by bortaf
R.I.P photobucket
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If the head has been excessively milled, Pintos run hot, as the head floor is cut too thin. For a competition motor seeing short runs and meticulous attention, not a big deal. It's something you'll have to adapt to on a street motor IF your head's been cut down. Are the exhaust studs almost "right at" the join with the head gasket? Dead giveaway if so.
Rev is right about the water pumps. Some of the aftermarket alloy pumps are right cacca. Did you properly seal the thermostat, and install it right way round? Hot hoses and cool rad mean it isn't circulating or you have some terribly hot localized heat transfer (as with a severely milled head).
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Next week i'll have the pipes off
Only thing that still doesn't seem right is the heater hoses being red hot but still not blowing very hot out of the heater. Oh and finally the rad isn't get hot at all, just a little warm at the top! Oh well, out of time now so it'll have to wait until next weekend. Thanks for the replies guys.
