Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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ill be going for a sleeper theme as I want to throw away the boat anchor and stick a new engine in. something already rwd thats fast, and that I can make fit. I was thinking nissan turbo or a bmw engine. maybe a vauxhall v6 but fancied something different and a bit exciting. any ideas or suggestions more than welcome Here's an unusual idea, a Nissan 350Z motor. RWD, manual tranny, light, very powerful and fits in some small spaces. My mate is building a Locost with one. Just make sure you get the ECU, 'fly by wire' gas pedal, key and full starter switch to avoid problems with the immobilizer. -Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Dec 10, 2011 20:52:28 GMT
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Dang it! Had the 1st intake and unbolted and pulled out and stripped the head of the fuel line fitting. Plus, forgot my wire cutters and a 13mm spanner I needed and my wheelbarrow tyre keeps deflating. Gave up for the day ... *angry man*
I found another 1990 740 so I'll have another go at that another day. The fuel rails look very beefy. The 740 has a TPS so I suppose I can just use that for Megasquirt. Saab 900s also appear to have a Bosch TPS that looks the same. Going to pull the distributor from the Volvo too, I think it's a Bosch LH2.2 which can be made to work with the Megasquirt.
-Steve
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Last Edit: Dec 10, 2011 20:53:06 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Great colour. Looks to be in really nice condition too ...
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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More reading. I found out I'll need a TPS as there isn't one on the intake. People are using the TPS from later 850s. I think I saw one in the wreckers. I'm thinking this Sat is wrecking yard day.
-Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Roamed around a local wreckers today and there are four mid 80s 240s, one 86 740 and even one 240 turbo with mechanical injection. The latter was for curiosity sake, but I might pull the turbo and see what kind it has for later. Or not ...
The NA 240s all had reasonably complete looking intakes, but two seemed cleaner and more complete than the rest. Later this week I'll put a pile of tools together with my wheel barrow and go pull the two best looking intakes. In the meantime I'll think a lot about what parts I want. Ideally, airbox to fuel lines and fasteners and wiring with pigtails as long as I can snag.
-Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Nice! Is that poo keeping it from rusting?
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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What gets me is that even though the ECU reports back digitally that the intake air temp is somewhere in the region of -15 C when it is actually about 10 C... quite why it is not richening the mixture up to -15 C levels is beyond me. Pull out the sensor and do the boil/freeze/room temperature trick and see if it actually does work. If you have the spec's on the sensor they should tell you the resistance at particular temperatures which is easy to check. -Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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This time I think I found the leak. Only 7 of the 8 intake manifold nuts were on, one of them is difficult to get to so I presume the PO didn't put it on when he replaced the cylinder head. When I sprayed the started fluid looking for the leak it over-sprayed onto the cylinder head around the missing nut and my leaning on the intake probably closed the gap when I was blocking off the suspected fitting.
I found this after pulling the intake off, which gives me a few options.
The cheapest and easiest is to just bung it back on, obviously. Another option is to jump straight to the Ford 5.0HO engine and T5 transmission which I've had trouble finding. Weird, because it's one of the most common Ford V8s around. Lots with auto transmissions, which I just don't want.
Yet another option is to get the EFI intake, injectors, TPS, wiring, etc. from a later model 240/740/940 and jump straight to a Megasquirt. I found a three mid-80s 240s in a local wreckers that would be great donors so getting parts should be easy. Option C is a lot of work and a lot of tinkering and some expense but would pave the way down turbo route. I'm leaning towards this option because tinkering is what we do and I think the turbo route will be about the same cost as the V8.
I think I'll bung the intake back on in the meantime and put all the nuts on to see if that fixes it.
Tinker on ...
-Steve
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Last Edit: Dec 1, 2011 20:55:13 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Found a vacuum leak here: Not sure what this hose does, but it disappears into the firewall in the general area of the air conditioner/heater. Anyway, when I sprayed starter fluid in the area the revs changed. Even blocking up the fitting still did it. I removed the fitting, put some plumbers dope on the threads and put it back in. Waiting til tomorrow for it to dry so I can look again. When I took out the fitting, restarted the engine and plugged the hole in the plenum with my finger the revs dropped to about 750rpm. A good sign ... Edit: Well, that didn't change anything ... there's still a leak around that fitting. -Steve
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Last Edit: Nov 30, 2011 4:42:18 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Fixed the stereo. The drivers side speaker didn't work. Took the speaker out and found no wire. Slapped in some speaker wire and now have 4 speakers working. Went for a drive, window down, arm on the door to listen to tunes in celebration.
The arm on the door thing brings up a question. The outside lower window trim, you know the stuff that is supposed to stop water running down the window and into the door, is very dry and hard from the sun. So hard in fact that it's cracking off and it's like a knife on my arm. Anyone know what that trim is called, where to get it and how to replace it?
-Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Nov 26, 2011 21:56:16 GMT
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It's sulking. You talking about a V8 swap = toys out of pram! John Hah! Think you're right, it started playing up as soon as I thought 'V8'! Sussed it! She runs! The fuse holders in the fusebox under the drivers side kick panel are a little corroded. This car has the bullet style fuses, which were curse word even when new, and the connects from the fuse end to the holder seem marginal. I'm tempted to pull out those fuse panels and replace them with modern style fuse panels such as: www.delcity.net/store/8!way-fuse-block/p_10823.a_1 Several of those should just replace the panel that's there now. -Steve
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Last Edit: Nov 26, 2011 21:56:52 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Strange. Now it won't start with the screwdriver trick or with a new relay. Semi-intermittent problem then, the best kind ... ... more voltmeter/wire tracing action required ... -Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Nov 19, 2011 21:06:26 GMT
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Chain drive and current plans for reverse involve a ring gear on the differential and a gear reduction starter motor to turn it. No ideas on the radiator. It was delivered to a friends shop by mistake and the vendor told him to throw it out as it wasn't worth shipping back. I pulled it out of the trash and gave him $5 for it. It is brand new and unbelievably compact. Even has mounts for standard slim fans to mount up. Well lookie there. I googled the only number on the side and it shows it to be a radiator for a John Deere Gator utility tractor. Thanks, mate! I asked about the rad because it looks prefect for a Locost, which I am also building.
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Nov 19, 2011 20:49:58 GMT
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Got the Haynes manual for my car and troubleshooted the starting problem. Tested the fuel pump relay and it was bad. Shorted the relay socket and I could hear the fuel pump run. Cart started immediately. Tried the same thing later and it wouldn't start. She's in the naughty corner while replacement relays show up and I work on my truck this weekend.
-Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Nov 17, 2011 17:21:09 GMT
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Are you going to run a chain drive? No reverse?
Do you know what the radiator is off of?
-Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Nov 17, 2011 17:11:22 GMT
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Now, if I actually liked math I could look at the markings on the screen, the width of a pulse, the timebase of the scope and work out the frequency the thing was pushing at. Given that I try to avoid sums where possible, I decided on an easier route, seeing as I was equipped. Lazy bu66er! I have that (or a very similar) scope ... don't use it often anymore but when I do it's definitely woth the few quid it cost me off ebay.
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Last Edit: Nov 17, 2011 17:11:52 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Nov 12, 2011 21:33:58 GMT
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Thanks! Fixed my Miata/MX5 which had a leaking clutch flex line. I replaced it with a 'long' braided line which does away with the difficult/impossible to get to lower flex union.
Anyway, this frees up Service Bay #3 so I can get the Volvo in to work on. More progress at some stage!
-Steve
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Four cylinders of fury .... Charge the battery and it'll likely quit.
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Last Edit: Nov 11, 2011 3:45:49 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Now the curse word won't start. Had an issue at the emissions test place that it wouldn't start immediately but it eventually did. I checked for spark and #1 plug fires away. I removed #2 injector and put it in a ziplock back and cranked the motor. No squirts.
I don't know much about these injection systems so I'm just following good practice. I'll try the fuel pump next. If not that then I'm not sure how to test the mechanical injection pump. Any ideas?
Might just crack on with the V8 conversion or converting the fuel to EFI/Megasquirt from a later model Volvo.
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1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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Sven
Part of things
Posts: 341
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Thanks! I should be tinkering the next couple weeks. Managed to get it registered and an Arizona title today. A bit of a drama as the PO had signed the California title in the wrong spot. One of the supervisors at the licensing office (DMV) said I needed a bonded title, power of attorney, etc. I didn't like that answer because it would be a bureaucratic nightmare so asked for a second opinion. The manager told them to put an arrow on the old title from the current signature to where it needed to go and issue a new title. Sweet! I also got a 90 day permit to drive it pending the emissions exemption. Now I have all the paperwork I need to apply for that. The transmission is really acting up. Not sure how long it's going to last, maybe a long time or maybe next week it'll blow. I'm going to run it until it does, call AAA to tow me home and replace the motor and transmission with a Ford 5.0L (302ci) V8 and a Tremec T5 transmission from a Mustang GT. Probably fit a rear axle from a Mustang too. I wonder how hard it would be to graft in some Mustang struts in the front and run Mustang PCD wheels. The parts to add performance brakes, strut inserts, springs, shocks, motor power adds and suchlike are very available here for the Mustang. This would be just the ticket: www.ebay.com/itm/320778399468But it's expensive and it may be too wide for the engine bay ... ;D
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Last Edit: Nov 4, 2011 7:22:35 GMT by Sven
1969 Chevrolet 4x4 C10 Pickup 1969 VW extended cab pickup (doka) 1980 Volvo 240DL 1995 Mazda Miata MX-5 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2011 MK Indy R (building)
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