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Oct 17, 2018 21:51:17 GMT
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Time to comment from the sidelines (I've been following but not commenting) The status quo up til now gives you and each of your partners 25% of "sweat equity" if I undertand correctly. Would it be an option to offer them a deal of (say) 20% sweat equity for you *and* they pay you £££ to keep the roof over your head? - bonus points if you can persuade them to let you take time out so you can accept other paid jobs. The end result is they still have access to you, and you can afford to pay bills. Not perfect but it avoids you walking away empty handed. Good luck whichever way you decide to go ps. Our family & friends all know a "poddit" is just another name for a pencil, ever since my eldest cousin started using the term (many) years ago when she was a kid pps. You're getting about 860 bhp? Impressive. Care to suggest what jets I need to fit to the SU on my Hunter to boost performance to even half that ? Apologies for dragging the topic back in the direction of on-track. As you were
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For info, I went to look at a Mk1 Cortina "project" a few months ago. Engine & box missing, the shell was so badly rotted the front edge of the bonnet had split open into 3 layers. The car would have snapped if we had tried to tow it out of the field / yard Other Mk1's projects on Ebay were a lot more solid ( 1 even included several expensive repair panels) - and were selling for £600 - £1k. I got offered the rusting heap for £2k as "it's old, it's rare, it's valuable" Nice folk, but their idea of what it's worth was a long way above what better projects were selling for.
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I've had the car running in the past with SU & Stromberg carbs, the factory manual shows both types + webber so I guess any could have been factory fitted. The new carb is labelled for a Hunter but I've never seen a HS4C type before so it took a while to work out why the hex nut at the bottom of the carb was missing. It also made it impossible to follow the well known "adust the mixture using the hex nut below the carb" instructions When I visted vulgalour * to weld a patch, we (he) found out the carb is a HS4C - this soon lead to HS4C setup pages www.scribd.com/doc/32945491/SU-HS-Type-Carb-Kit-Servicing-and-Tuning-Guidesucarb.co.uk/technical-hs-type-carburetter-hs4c-hs8-dismantling* It was good to catch up, the welding & info was appreciated
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Start by asking yourself what's it worth to you? Then add on the time ( years??) / £££ / hassle to get it roadworthy. Does it have a reg & V5 ? Is it economical to get it back on the road, or would you be better off buying a "more finished unfinished project" * Ignore what I do, I enjoy tinkering so buying an uneconmical project sometimes gives me what I want
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This thread has changed direction a lot since I saw it last. Since then I've had some exposure to Scimitars ( ) which makes it a lot easier for me to put the photos into context. Bookmarked for future reference Tip : if you think the oil filler cap is leaking, you can prove it by replacing the cap with a tight fitting woolen sock (it fixed my oil leaks - but my mot tester yesterday insisted I replace the cap before I take the car back for a retest next week )
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Beefy batteries will be needed and will cost £££, maybe look at what other tools you might want in future and make sure they will work with the batteries you pick this time.
I've committed to Makita and have no complaints, but read the spec on sawzalls - Makita do 2 types (lets call one "hobby" the other "serious pro") one has half the stroke* of the other. * Pun deleted - insert your own here
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I'll mention HoTWire here just so he sees this thread
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greencarfritz - the offer is appreciated but I'm hoping I'm sorted, MOT is booked for later this week so I'll know for sure then. Car-related news ... I called into a rather large junk shop and found a set of genuine Halfrauds locking wheel nuts still in the packet for £3* * bargain price as the application list on the back said "Chrysler" (ie Hillman) was different to "Hunter" and both were different to "Hillman", so a 66% chance the nuts wouldn't fit. Worth a gamble, and even better when I found they do fit I also noticed Speedy Spares were selling NOS carbs for £40, a quick phone call later and the rebuilt engine got a shiny *NEW* carb It's too early to tell what difference it will make, but it's already clear that tickover is a lot smoother
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Last Edit: Sept 18, 2019 6:59:22 GMT by nomad
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Sept 26, 2018 20:33:39 GMT
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Any one know what this is called it's a rubbery foam it's 20mm wide and about 5mm thick just glues on or maybe self sticking don't want to take it off till I know it's available If you cant find the exact stuff, search for .... Norton "cafe racer" bikes from the 60s often had a metal strap over the top of the petrol tank, with a strip of rubbery foam (2" x 1/8" ?) between the tank and the strap
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Sept 26, 2018 8:50:57 GMT
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Awesome work as always - loving the way you're making shaped repairs out of flat sheet and basic tools Tip: I don't often fit windscreens but was told a while ago (was it a somewhere in this thread? ) to put the rubber in warm/hot water for 15 minutes to make it as soft as possible before you try to fit it Keep up the good work
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Sept 21, 2018 22:51:19 GMT
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Looking at your original picture on a decent sized screen, it would appear from what I can see that the sleeper is holding everything up! I can't tell from the photo if it's holding everything up (critical) or if it's just extra bracing to stop the wall flexing (so is almost optional), without knowing for sure it's difficult to advise Looking at your plans, I'd be happy to cut the section out as it shouldn't weaken the post too much. Best add the supporting timber before you cut just on case Other ideas - 1. It looks like the trailer will still be a very tight fit, can you make the trailer narrower (maybe make the mudguards removable ??) 2. Is the post actually needed or is it there "just in case" (ie what will happen if you just remove it?) 3. Would it be easier to make a new door opening on the left of the post (ie change the current "front wall" into a "lefthand door" ? (this only makes sense if the new lefhand door would be bigger than the original right hand door.) 4. How difficult would it be to loosen the top of the post (prybar?), drill the concrete around the base (SDS breaker?) and remove the post, then drill a new hole n the floor making the doorway about a foot wider, then refit the original post in the new position?
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Sept 19, 2018 17:06:46 GMT
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Hi. For info, I asked a similar question a couple of years ago*, advice then** was to put the ad in the "Items for sale section". * search for my "sectional concrete garage" thread if you want to see the old ad. ** paging HoTWire - any comments or advice ?
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Sept 18, 2018 11:15:30 GMT
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^ paul99 - my insurers advised the same when SHMBO & myself were sharing a modern car for a few years, I insure it with her as a named driver, next year she insurers it with me named... We also found it's sometimes cheaper if you add a named driver (I guess insurers know how much grief SHMBO would give me if I prang our "shared" car )
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Sept 18, 2018 10:43:35 GMT
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^ Cool toy That must be very strange to drive I had a Fiat camper van many years ago that had the seats ahead of the front wheels - it's an odd sensation when you turn since the vehicle rotates around a pivot point that is behind you
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Sept 18, 2018 10:37:59 GMT
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I had full NCB on a modern daily, when I sold that and started using a classic as my only transport I asked my "new" insurer to make a note of my NCB. The NCB did not increase but when I needed to insure a modern a few years later, my NCB was still "live" as it had been attached to my classic policy. My insurers referred to it as "keeping the NCB warm" - not sure if that's an industry term or just lingo in their office In my experience NCB is wiped totally after 2 years if it's not used (I've never heard of it being reduced every "lapsed" year as mentioned above, but maybe the rules have changed )
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Sept 18, 2018 9:56:17 GMT
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PCV / tuning / carb swap / EV conversion / forum links added above
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Last Edit: Sept 21, 2018 11:38:21 GMT by nomad
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Sept 10, 2018 19:35:44 GMT
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It's quite brave doing all this living with the Hillman stuff trundling around the country. I have total confidence the Hunter will get me where I want to go, worst case I can fix most faults with a screwdriver and pair of pliers By comparison - I bought a nice sensible modern daily last year that has let me down twice so far (1 dead starter that gave no warning, the other fault cleared itself by the time the RAC came out so I don't know what the problem was - it might fail again...) Time for a few motoring hints / tips / thoughts... For touring, try to make sure everything you have works from 12 volts (cigarette lighter etc) and fit at least 2 lighter sockets (1 "ignition live", 1 "permenant live"), and connect a couple of car USB hubs so you can charge phones etc even when the car is parked Make sure you use plenty of insulation tape on any exposed connections to stop the magic smoke escaping - it would be very silly not to. Oops! The overheating is now fixed (at a cost of 2x 2 litre bottles of genuine hi-octane Cola) left to soak in the radiator overnight and shaken regulalry. Temp is now a lot happier - and so am I It's always difficult to decide what spares to carry, when I'm on a touring holiday I try to have 2 spare wheels (lessons learned from RRG'16 ), a spare distributor, and a spare fuel pump. I fitted the spare pump at Jims workshop last week and it fixed the problem of fuel draining overnight which is good I did have a slight problem (possibly on Port Talbot ring road ) when the arm snapped on the "new" pump. I now know I can swap a pump on a busy dual-carrigeway in less than 5 minutes. I also know you get a much nicer class of insults in Wales when your old car breaks down Haematite (not Hermatite !) always appeals to me - you can now get magnetic lumps which are very handy for holding pace notes on the dash (may not work with modern plactic cars). For anyone passing near Haverfordwest (South Wales) I suggest you visit the places on the list given to me by the chap running the last campsite I visitied - all are "a bit special" Expect photos of random seaside places in the next update
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Last Edit: Sept 18, 2019 6:57:33 GMT by nomad
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Sept 8, 2018 16:56:18 GMT
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Hillmanjames got a set of NOS f/g wings from me and fitted them to his Hunter - there should be some info on his build thread. For comparison, I fitted a pair of NOS steel wings to my Hunter, the genuine one is fit & forget, the pattern one is close but the panel edges & flanges are very roughly finished. You might find pattern steel wings are no better than f/g Have another search to see who is making them now and look for comments / feedback from folk who have tried them, I was looking a couple of months ago for Cort mk1 wings and there were a few suppliers. Edit : you can get repair patches for the areas which normally rust Headlight, a-post area, etc
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Last Edit: Sept 8, 2018 17:00:54 GMT by nomad
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Sept 4, 2018 20:57:25 GMT
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As I'm touring in an unfamilar part of the country, I asked if anyone had a workshop and welder I could make use of before my MOT. Many thanks for the folk who got in touch, all offers were very much appreciated ! Special mention goes to scimjim who - out of the blue - let me know I was near him, and he had a spare workshop I could use. I left an IOU for lots of RR brownie points if / when the next batch get handed out One of the main jobs I wanted to do was to make sure the sills were 100%, which involved cutting out a small suspect patch. A few hours on Day 1 were spent sourcing some suitable steel, and using it to make & fit an inner sill patch. The outer sill was cut back to solid metal and more sheet was shaped to fit the hole, then fitted. Day 2 was spent seam welding the outer sill, and minor fettling (looking at the borderline overheating, tightening a distibutor clamp bolt that was loose, reseating a plug lead that was loose in the distributor, tightening a sparkplug that was visibly loose, moving ignition timing to it's "happy place" etc). After the visits to Jims, I made a start fitting the NOS (or just OLD ?) door draught excluders I got from the tat auction at RRG, another small job but well worth doing I also poured a bucket of water over the radiator after a run. Checking it a few minutes later showed a few rad colums are flowing well (obvious as the water exaporates from them quickly), shame the other 90% are doing not-a-lot. It looks like the rad I got a heavy duty core fitted to just a few years ago is now causing my overheating problems. Not impressed
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Last Edit: Sept 18, 2019 6:55:49 GMT by nomad
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