gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Does any body know a company that are competent and used to doing this? Nothing special and only 8 required although I have no technical details on depth of current hardening etc. At the moment I am struggling to find people who can and have done this rather than willing to give it a try. Even people who I have been told did this a few years ago no longer do so, so need up to date info. (Prices also if available all thou this is sort of irrelevant). Thanks
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Feb 26, 2016 22:12:54 GMT
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I can understand why mk1's and mk2's started going up in price 10 years ago as shells were getting rare and if you have £30-50k plus invested in a competitive car or a car you enjoy rallying. Then collecting shells made sense as trying to set up a new type of car to make it competitive is going to take a fair bit of the season and cost a fair bit. How this then translated to the road car price I can sort of understand, but how this has translated to any fast Ford being worth the amounts that are being banded about is, beyond me. But 1 make fans will pay for the best of the breed and there are a lot of Ford fans around.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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There may be some useful info in here. www.saabrally.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=3586Or look at some of Luke's threads as they will give info on Saab engine / RWD application with fully fabricated rear end, as they are Saab based (Obv) but the layout and pickup points may be of use as I presume you are going to basically space frame the rear end ? or completely re-panel? Around page 5 is where it gets to the current setup.
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Last Edit: Feb 9, 2016 10:47:03 GMT by gib
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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You can come and have a look at my Murena but I can assure you its practicality is limited but 3 seats is a bonus. And you can see all the work I have done on the quattro since you kindly help move it for me. ( abandoned it and covered it in junk!)
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Dec 15, 2015 21:17:21 GMT
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Hopefully you will see this as a challenge rather than the headache it has been for me. I need a matched set mid to high end but it's probably going to be wants available. Fronts 2 off 185 55/60 14 Rears 2 off 195 55/60 14 or 205 55/60 14 It's for an oddity and have heard good things about CF2's and uniroyle rain expert?
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Front wings rot out from the inside and good ones aren't easy to source these days. Otherwise just a very capable workhorse. The only other area of concern is if you start using VagCom (VCDS)as the dashboard communications are very flaky but there are various work arounds. Any details on the one you are looking at? PM if you don't want to open post the info.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Dec 11, 2015 14:50:22 GMT
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www.audifans.net/forum-3.html Search here first. Not trying to be rude but your question is a bit vague. I have had quite a few and still use one as a daily (~35K PA) and have worked on many more. What advice are you after that isn't relative to any car of this age / spec ( TD / large / upmarket / estate car )
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Nov 17, 2015 10:35:18 GMT
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Thread drift does any one have or know of any where to get the door handles for a 505 ( possibly the same as a 305/4). Not to sure on which models just the same style as pictured.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Built by Quick Motorsport (As in Graham, Pete, Captain et al(they also sorted out Phil Colins Escort after the moment earlier this year)
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Oct 19, 2015 19:33:02 GMT
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I need some help getting hold of replacement headlight adjusters,as shown above. It's the plastic nut and the steel screw any ideas. They are from a Matra Murena originally hence the struggle.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Oct 13, 2015 10:14:45 GMT
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Many moons ago when I was a part time driver for Brown Bothers we had loads of application books with dimensions so you cross ref various parts.
I need an odd CV boot and have the target dimensions (major ID ~66mm, minor ID ~25mm, length ~100mm but its a bit more involved in the clamping zone) and ideally would like to know what options I can get.
So does any one know an online source for CV boot dimensions with a picture to show number of ribs ??
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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I need to get hold of 2 36 DCNFs for a project. They will be reset as part of the project so I would be interested in any parts as long as they are not damaged. I have cash waiting or can trade for random clutter from the garage ( probably in my previous unsuccessful for sale posts).
The most useful may be 2 ( not a pair) of genuine Weber 40 DCNFs one is a complete working unit on a car ( I can supply full set up on request) and the other has the emulsion and mains missing.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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I need to swap 2 cars around 1 in Oxford the other in Feltham. The problem is one is my G Wagen (the other is my Saab 99 rally car). At 2.5T the G is a pain to trailer as I only have an A6 to tow it with and its to heavy for my trailer / car.
Has any one hired a 7.5T beavertail any where in between Oxford and Feltham? Both are drivable but not road legal.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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I think the internets general views on specials are negative and not that accurate, one offs lasted 10 minutes etc. It was a bit more than that. Rob Daniels is, was (I think he is having a break from the scene) one of the most trusted sources for info although he doesn’t run the 1950sspecial page anymore and Malcolm McKay has a serious amount of info. Most were not copied but developed due to need or available parts or because of splits in partnerships (which happened to mine which was available under 3 different names). One manufacturer would offer a ford based version whilst another would offer the same body on a different base. The similarities of body shape and form can be viewed in the same way lots of moderns look alike As for numbers I have 1 of 32 TWM’s made which was a low volume run and my brother has 2 out of ?? AKSs but I know of at least 3 others. So the majority were making more than double figures at least of each model. I don't know the production figures for Cheetahs but did have a chat about them 6 or 7 years ago at the specials day as a Red / Black ford based one was there, in fact I am sure there are 3 or 4 known in the UK. The chassis with that car looks an original with ford hook up points for the IFS, rear would probably match. The bodies are easy to work on as the thickness of the GRP is pretty heavy and the shapes are simple to copy and mould yourself if you have had some experience of GRP. I had to rebuild the whole front quarter. Price wise they are oddities that don’t follow any market or trend ( thank god). Tuning parts are available but costly. I would try to keep it original or just buy and ship back to the UK as a lot of people would be interested, in fact it is the Historic Specials day at Burford ( Cotswold wildlife park) this weekend which is the premier mtg. for special owners I might mention this find if that is ok with the OP ?? Pictures to make up for lots of words.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Who did the head rebuild ? Where did you get the parts? And what spec did you rebuild to? Thanks in advance
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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To clarify I have actually converted front handbrake systems to rear. The set up for the rear is as below. You use the complete late model rear handbrake beam. You then need too make a top hat sleeve for the bearing then use you 114 99 hubs this adds around 6mm track to each side. Depending on what discs you want you then just space the calliper accordingly. Std front handbrake callipers are curse word even when set up correctly as they have no heat transfer and the swept area is tiny. Trying to get hold of a complete Hub based front hand brake is not going to happen unless your pockets are deep. Trying to get hold of front wheel bearings is going to need even deeper pockets and your own manufacturing plant. You could remove some material from the yoke but that is a serious last resort. For the front as shown you have some room to play with and spare hubs as I said remove the studs and mock up from there which is as simple as it it gets. Remember the knuckles are inset so you with have to juggle the hat height but as mentioned you rim well looks OK. Sorry not the best pictures but shows the areas of concern. If you want to lower the car you may need to make some spring jackers like these. Cutting springs is a nightmare due to the original length Vs a good lowered length ( major increase in rate) Fronts Rears
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Mar 31, 2015 15:09:04 GMT
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Just looked at your trial fit of the cross spoke rims you have the well looks to be tapered. I would knock the studs out of those front hubs (Presumably they are 108PCD) and then get some measurements of them on there as std front hand brake callipers may work. As mentioned the brakes are back from the centre line.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Mar 31, 2015 15:04:16 GMT
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What is the back space clearance on your wheels? Do they fit over the std. rear callipers? if your rims don’t fit over the rear callipers you are fighting a losing battle and as mentioned your wheels are too small for any practical setup on a Saab 99, 90 or 900.
If they do fit , using 114 hubs is simple with a top hat adapter that is easy to make and only increases the track by ~12mm for the rear and the front stays the same. The first stage is to swap out the rear axle for a later 900 with rear handbrake, these are disc by the way . The swap Involves cutting out 2 holes which are stamped but not cut in the rear tub under the seat. And cutting the old hand brake mech. and welding in a rear hand brake mech. Takes a few hours. On the front I can’t remember the lug spacing but its around 100mm from memory but as the lugs are so far back from the wheel centre line you have a lot of room to play with its just settling on the replacement hastle. I.e set it up for of the shelf discs or pick a disc with the correct hat height and get them redrilled. Hyundai for PCD or Merc for high top hats ( brembo on line catalogue is the place to search)
All of the above is simple and pretty quick to do if you have access to a lathe or mill if you don’t then forget it.
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gib
Part of things
Posts: 163
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Mar 31, 2015 12:17:28 GMT
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What saab forums are you using? As if you posted the gist as here i.e must fit under 14" rims must be front handbrake. Then there are virtually no options. People when changing instantly go for rear handbrake conversions as its the only logical ( to most) way forward and if you are improving the braking you are not going to go for a smaller disc as its a nightmare to try and find one due to the hat size. Aren't zantia front calipers the same as CX's?? if so then there leg mounted so of no use.
What is your mechanical ability like ? I am not trying to be derogatory but you have a spare set of hubs which make the hat height clear and locating tabs for calipers even clearer esp. for mock up. If you need help on improving the set up I have converted a few front H/B cars to rear and improved the set up along the way but I can't think of any one who has tried to reduce the braking affect for the sake of fitting 14" rims and would struggle to think of a set up esp for a front hand brake car.
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