sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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What's the thinking with the tube spacers around the flange studs? Is it just to make the nuts more accessible, or is there more to it? Can't be 100% sure as that's how the engine came to me but yes, they do help make it easier to fit the nuts. Without the long studs and spacers some of the nuts would be too tight to clear the cast manifold in it's new position. Just started making a new oil pick-up pipe to fit in the sump I'm building. My plan is to bolt the pick-up pipe to the inside of the sump as the timing cover pick-up port is integral to the original sump flange. Still waiting on a suitable section of steel to finish making the sump flange before laying the sump bowl over the top and tacking it in place prior to full seam welding.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jeep Grand Cherokee back axlesowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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I've got Dana 44's both front and rear of my Mahindra. Massive units compared to the ones under my Disco ! Only negative is the cost of shafts / different ratios is very expensive even before you start adding shipping from USA and import duty / VAT. I'd say they're comparable in size to the normal Land Rover differntial, unless you've got the larger Land Rover Salisbury which is based on the Dana60? I've already got a Scimitar SE6A Salisbury 4HA axle casing but that's too narrow to start with, and had a quote of somewhere around £400 for a set of spangly American made shafts made and imported for me depending on exchange rate etc. As long as the axle is the right width then dropping my 2.88 Powerlock in assuming the Dana and Salisbury/GKN centres are close enough then I don't foresee any major issues before making mounts etc.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jeep Grand Cherokee back axlesowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Anyone have any knowledge/experience of these?
I've been doing a bit of research and I believe they are basically Dana44 which is very similar to Salisbury 4HA and about 62" wide hub face to face? I've been after a stronger axle for my Rover SD1 for a while, and really I want it to be a Salisbury 4HA as a period style mod. The Jeep Grand Cherokee also shares the same stud pattern so it's almost too good to be true! I have a spare Powerlock differential unit in 2.88 ratio that I want to use, although I understand the splines will be different so would probably need custom shafts making/importing to suit.
Is it too good to be true or not? The American sites have some info on them but apparently they had an aluminium bodied axle, but being export spec the ones over here should be steel?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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I was interested to read about your starter experience, I have a tr7v8 with a sd1 engine and starter which turns over quite slowly and a range rover efi which whizzes over I was worried it was lacking compression! The little Marelli starters are great, something I'd do on any RV8 as well as ditching the dizzy for coilpacks
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Well that's been an interesting read. I've had a fancy for an SD1 as a long distance cruiser for a while, although my mind had drifted more toward a modern diesel and autobox. The Audi V8 looks an interesting prospect though. I'm undecided with the Audi V8 right now. Since messing around with the injectors then doing the rolling road day that Chasr organised and finding I had about 170bhp from the little 3.5 with a very rough fuel map (lambda sensor had failed a month before whilst road-tuning), I'm more tempted to stick with the RV8 and get a spare set of heads skimmed to up the CR to something more suitable like 10.5:1 and shooting for more power/efficiency. Plans are still there to fit a Salisbury 4HA axle with LSD and disc brakes (still on the lookout for a suitably wide 4HA axle case) and carry on driving. With it being winter-time and the route to work literally an off-road course of broken concrete and a flood the SD1 has done very few mile the last few months.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Ooh I like this, just started throwing stuff and junk together to make myself a self-propelled vehicle with the intention of taking it to the Gathering myself
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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I may have to slightly copy you're red/yellow lever mounting plate, much much better than my horizontal plate above the propshaft
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jan 31, 2016 15:27:10 GMT
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wow, just read all five pages, what a great rebuild thread. Thanks The bellhousing looks a lovely construct. Something you could rightly feel very smug about. It's been mostly welded together for a few years now, been meaning to finish it off! I'd be happier if it didn't need to have the welds ground down, MIG is easy but very messy and keeps putting more metal in. TIG would be far better but it's still beyond me. Sorry, but I believe you have that bar wrong. The axle cannot move at all now. With your bar, the axle would need to turn as it raises or lowers. It cannot do that. Also, when you compress the springs the axle will move back and the shackles will take up the movement. The axle cannot move rearwards at all now. Also a leaf spring axle wil move sideways when one wheel goes up/down and it cannot do that either. You will need a rose type joint at both ends. I agree it's not the most conventional of designs, but I'm limited with the space available so the design is a compromise. There is a shackle on the crossmember below the engine, polybush on top with rose joint below. That part I know works from jumping up and down on the chassis and raising the front with the farm jack. The springs are quite soft now so will bend to allow the axle to pivot around an arc from behind, better than tramping uncontrollably. Any twisting and lateral movement of the axle should be taken up by the three polybushes I've used, that is as of yet untested but before I attached the bar to the chassis shackle there was some sideways deflection which I consider to be acceptable. Time will tell if I'm right or wrong, and the fun is in finding out
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jan 31, 2016 11:13:59 GMT
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jan 19, 2016 14:53:39 GMT
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There's a reason I've converted my P6 turbo from twin blow-thru SU to full efi, I'd simply hit the limit of what the carbs were reliably handling. Performance was stunning, no flat spots and minimal lag, really worked well for a pair of carbs thrown on the side of an engine and fed with pressurised air! Ultimately, the fueling could've been a lot better, I ran them rich to be on the safe side, even so it was still relatively economical.
Carbs are fun when you can get them working right, and also very satisfying to make them work well. Downside to carbs is a smaller capacity well tuned efi lump will make more power, use less fuel and be a nicer runner in comparison.
Fitting something like full Megasquirt or one of the other aftermarket ecu's will allow you to monitor the fueling and log it if you have an AFR fitted too, which I'd also say in an absolute must have with any home-brew forced induction. As I've seen some people do they've made a very basic fuel map based on the readings from a carb using the MS TunerStudio making the transition from carbs to efi slightly easier.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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You'll want the Malpassi fuel regulator that Dave Dorson mentioned and a high pressure fuel pump, Bosch 044 etc with fuel return line. To make the carbs work under pressure the fuel pressure must remain about 3-4psi above atmospheric or boost pressure, so if the supercharger was to pump 10psi into your V8, you'll need the fuel pressure to be 13-14psi. I don't know how well an external float SU carb would handle that, I was getting some of the dashpot oil pushed out at 10psi boost and a slight weep from the HIF44 base seal at the bottom of the float chamber. Seriously HIF44's are proven to work, and I've been told a single SU can handle 200bhp, standard Maestro turbo was about 150bhp. Have a pair of them and in theory you've got the fueling capability to support 350-400bhp on the Rover V8 using a standard intake manifold
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Last Edit: Jan 19, 2016 8:02:44 GMT by sowen
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jan 18, 2016 19:33:05 GMT
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I'm sure the Jaguar bypass is vacuum operated, my Jaguar M90 throttle body stuff has a vacuum bypass built in. Best thing by far is to ditch the dizzy and go coilpack, Megajolt would work well, not sure about Nodiz if that can handle positive manifold pressures happily? Or go all out and buy something like a Megasquirt ecu, even if you only use the ignition side of things and keep the carbs? Seriously leaving the distributer on will make it a right dog of a runner, the advantage of fully mappable coilpack ignition is that you can run healthy advance off boost for economy/driveability and then it retards however much you want as the boost builds. Really really really get rid of the distributer.... Also ditch the 2" SU's, you'll struggle to get the needles right, then you'll run the risk of blowing the fuel line from the float chamber to the venturi off, very high risk of catastrophic fire there. Find a pair of stock RV8 HIF44's and fit the turbo seals and needles, job done. With the fuel and ignition sorted all you've got to do is mount the blower any way it would fit, turn the key and drive. Doing it any other way I see you being stuck struggling with something that doesn't work, and if/when it did work, would have it's wiped clean by a bog standard 3.9efi.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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If I still had a spare carb manifold I could mock something up in the garage if I cleared a bit of space, sold the last of my carb spares a few months back, only got efi kit now. Outlet at the bottom would push the charger up and clear the dizzy (I think you're still living in the stone age running a dizzy?), outlet at the top could work well, then depends which side that big triangular lump sits and how it clears everything?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jan 17, 2016 14:33:37 GMT
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If you're bolting a supercharger on tuned intake lengths kinda become a secondary concern! The supercharger should sit in any orientation, depends on how it fits each way whether you have the outlet on the top of bottom? Weird looking? Just watch Mad Max Fury Road then get working on the car! Best thing to do is grab the blower, lay it in the engine bay and figure out how best it could fit, then start making brackets and plumb it in and test drive it
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jan 17, 2016 12:24:56 GMT
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Do you have the Jaguar outlet then? If you have, bolt it on and lay the blower over the engine to see how it could fit I reckon you could space the carbs a few inches and not notice any difference, bonnet clearance could be an issue, function over form and all that! Make the throttle and choke linkages and fuel lines longer, new throttle control to replace the P6 rod arrangement, I don't see it needing any specialist or highly skilled know-how or tools doing it the way I've described. A pair of Metro turbo plenums or fabricate your own carb plenums (don't bother with any 'restrictor plates', they're a bodge and not how the factory setup runs).
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jan 17, 2016 10:59:32 GMT
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If it was me I'd make it all out of something like 2mm steel apart from the flanges which you'd get away with 4-6mm steel and a rubber gasket to take up any warpage, all easily do-able with a basic mig welder setup and hand tools. It would be really trick to get a pair of those alloy outlets and have siamesed outlets, but then again it would be underneath and out of view. I reckon you could knock up a really cool looking air intake similar to that of the original Mad Max Interceptor, simple boxy scoop, filter hidden inside somehow and an elbow at the back to the supercharger. It could be quite a shallow setup, yet still sit nicely proud of the bonnet and not obstruct forward visibility Or whack a big single turbo on feeding the standard twin SU manifold
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jan 16, 2016 22:46:54 GMT
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The plenum/manifold on the outlet of the charger would probably only need to be 1.5"-2" deep, as long as it allows the air to flow freely out to each carb the shape shouldn't matter too much. A bypass valve on each side of some description would probably be the biggest challenge. I plan on using a simple mechanically controlled bypass system on my supercharger build, basically another small throttle plate that is open at idle and shut at what. I really think you should reconsider the HIF44, the parts are available to rebuild them to near turbo spec, main difference is that you won't have the o-ringed dash top (mine started leaking close to 10psi). It could work with the 2" SU's, I've not seen it done but doesn't mean they wouldn't work under pressure? There you go, no excuses to start bolting the supercharger on
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jan 16, 2016 20:54:29 GMT
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Not really answering your questions, but a bit of out-of-the-box thinking for you.... How about running the twin SU's blow-thru? It's a well known and proven MG/Austin/Rover SU carb setup, and the standard HIF44's can be rebuilt with turbo spec parts. What I'm thinking is that you're planning on fitting the Eaton in the middle on top (so any excuse to justify cutting a hole in the bonnet ), why not use a standard twin SU manifold, space the carbs outwards enough to mount the supercharger between them with the outlet pointing down and the nose/pulley lined up to run off a belt on the front of the crank pulley. From the outlet the air-charge can be ducted either side then directed into both of the carb intakes/plenums. The intake to the charger out the back can be a simple 180 degree elbow to point forwards from above, giving you the classic supercharger scoop, completely functional and bolt on
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jan 10, 2016 13:52:46 GMT
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Wakes you up when the front prop lets go though, doesn't it?! Good to see some progress, yours are amongst my favourite builds. It didn't happen to me, but the dents in the footwell could do with being bashed back down to give me more space for my left foot! Thanks, they're my faves too Tiny bit more progress I cut some 6mm thick plates out to sit over the top of the axle, welded some 6mm plates onto the chassis to hold the shackle end of the anti wrap bar and a mate donated an old tractor link for the lower shackle joint which has had one threaded end cut off and welded into the end Plates welded onto the axle and the front end of the bar bent and re-welded down to attach to the bush I've run out of thick plate steel again so need to do another metal run sometime early in the week to finish the front off and have plenty to crack on with the back axle too
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