sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Feb 24, 2016 22:09:23 GMT
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This is becoming more of an IVA Q&A thread with added Pop!
Quick question, will the hoodscoop come off for the test as it more or less obliterates forward visibility? Can't remember what's immediately underneath (apart from a massive V8) so don't remember if it was a permanent feature or just for race?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Feb 20, 2016 14:25:19 GMT
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To be honest the rods confuse me too, I ended up cutting off the first 2" of the bellhousing flange and welded it onto a Land Rover bellhousing, that now sits quite happily in my Land Rover and seems to work well. An alternative I've just stumbled on would be a T5 gearbox, and the bellhousing from a Ssangyong Musso... The Ssangyong T5 has a different tail housing from normal rwd T5 boxes, and is an alternative that could be used if you can find the bits? May I ask, the Ssangyong T5 is a manual 4x4 gearbox with an OM603/606 bell housing? If it is would you mind telling me which side of the gearbox the front drive transfer case is on? Beers, H Sorry I don't know for sure, I bought the gearbox minus the transfer box and Google images indicate the front drive goes along the left side?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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It's quite a deep and narrow sump so I don't see sideways forces causing too many issues, yet! The length is of concern hence the priority to put something baffle-like infront and behind the pick-up. If the bowl was shorter then that would require a different approach to oil control. I've read that later Saab engines had oil supply issues because they fitted a finer mesh in the pick-up pipe and that had a habit of getting clogged up and causing bearing failures, no other issues I've read of on oil supply from cornering/acceleration etc.
The test was just plain aviation grade 100LL Avgas poured in a sloshed about, with a coat of etch primer on the outside it's highlighted a few areas which haven't sealed properly. Note to self, pure Argon gas is curse word like CO2 when MIG welding steel! If I can get another Argoshield bottle on the weekend I should be able to complete the sump ready for final sealing on.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Feb 17, 2016 22:37:48 GMT
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The cossie v6 has a pan under the crank to stop foaming, which is handy. I've been looking at doing a keyhole sump, instead of vertical baffles, as that seems pretty simple but fairly effective. Funny you should say that as once I'd finished leak testing the sump today (found some small leaks that need drilling out and welding) I'm left with a sheet of ally which just happens to be cut to shape and drilled to fit! To make things easier the ally sheet has been trimmed and bent about a bit to fit in the sump and clear the rotating assembly to create a simple windage tray, needs some bracing to stop it flexing but it's mostly there in shape now. That'll leave a couple of simple vertical baffles to limit the sloshing front-back, and maybe side to side depending on space available?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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I'm not planning on clever trap door stuff just yet, although a good search through Google images does give some good inspiration. My first idea will be using the braces across the centre of the sump to bolt basic baffle plates down into the bowl, maybe a few extra lugs deep down inside just to hold everything in place. All it needs to do is to stop too much oil sloshing away from the pick-up and getting frothed up by the crankshaft.
The girdle shape was purely accidental, I found whilst constructing the flange that it was distorting, and having some leftover flat bar allowed me to fit some cunning braces which also located the bowl while I was fabricating that prior to welding in place. The plan worked and the sump assembly has remained acceptably flat throughout the fabrication process and requires no further work to flatten it.
It's now sat in the workshop here at work with a plate of alloy sealed and bolted to the top ready to do some leak testing before I continue and finish it off ready to bolt on for good....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Feb 16, 2016 10:21:07 GMT
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V8's, pah! 4 pot turbo's are where it's at I've already mentioned a desire to do it with an SD1, but I'd also say a 5 or 6 cylinder turbo diesel would suit one nicely. Did you ever get any further with the 605 installation? The 605 swap is on longterm hold right now, need to concentrate and get my Land Rover back on the road first, whilst doing the Saab turbo swap on the blue P6 at the same time! Then there's my SD1 which wants some bodywork doing.... For my lack of V8 content have that iconic P6 burnout video
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jeep Grand Cherokee back axlesowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Feb 15, 2016 11:31:39 GMT
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Aren't taxi axles either Sherpa ones on the fx4, or transit on the metrocabs? Sounds like you'd just be better off with a Chevy 10 bolt. You could pick one up that fulfils all Your pcd, width, and locker needs for under 300 quid, and parts are easily and cheaply available. Early axles with the 5x5 pcd mabybe the old Sherpa type? Not sure as details are sketchy and ebay only has the more recent ones predominantly available which look just like the ones I want. Alternative yank axles could be an option, but my heart is set on the period style Salisbury axle, and I understand them!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Feb 15, 2016 11:28:38 GMT
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V8's, pah! 4 pot turbo's are where it's at
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Feb 14, 2016 15:11:56 GMT
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Is there a story behind that one madrover? What to look out for? Rust, rust, and lots of rust hidden under the bodywork! Generally the sills are the main areas to go, lift the rear seat bases and have a look underneath at the back of the sill. Boot floors can rust out, the upper trailing arm can pull off the side of the boot floor in extreme cases, also worth having the elbows properly inspected with a hammer to determine how deep the inevitable rust is on the upper and lower arm mounts by the rear hubs. Those are notorious for failing causing the rear suspension to collapse. Apart from that, rust is the biggest killer. Mechanicals and electrics are standard stuff, nothing particularly special about them. What potential do they have? You can buy go-faster goodies for the V8 and upgrade with later RV8 variants, all pretty mix'n'match stuff really. Use the extra power and transmission failure either gearbox or axle are far more likely. Uprated dampers and arb's are available at a price, Rover SD1 and Jeep Grand Cherokee alloys are popular, any more than that and you're into bespoke custom stuff and figuring it out for yourself!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Feb 14, 2016 14:52:58 GMT
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jeep Grand Cherokee back axlesowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Feb 14, 2016 14:13:20 GMT
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Let us know what you find out. I've been considering the Volvo axle for my Capri, but the taxi option sounds interesting, so keep us posted. The Volvo could be an option, a quick Google indicates they can be found wide, and an LSD option is available, but the ratios aren't right for me. Black cab axles also look wide, from those pics I'm fairly certain they are Salisbury 4HA style which would suit me as I've got a spare 2.88 Powerlock ready to fit. The hub bearing ends are different from anything I've seen before, but chances are the axle would need some minor narrowing so replacement ends could be pressed and welded on to suit custom driveshafts.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jeep Grand Cherokee back axlesowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Feb 13, 2016 20:32:27 GMT
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How wide is the 85-87 XJS - you might find one being broken? The early ovlovs with the 44 are about the same width as a Scimitar Jaguars are IRS and Volvo's are an entirely different axle family altogether. I'm looking into the axles as fitted to black cabs now, clearly the Salisbury variant I want and look to be wide enough for what I have in mind?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Feb 13, 2016 12:38:34 GMT
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More gold; this forum is the business. Thanks Flipping top work! Not sure how I have missed this one :-D I might have to go and investigate this Saab trionic system. Does it do variable can phasers? Thanks , no idea on the Trionic, lots of people love it, I'm sticking with Megasquirt as I've already got it, it's fitted and I understand it! The sump flange is now done to suit my B234 longblock engine, I'll tidy up the outer profile as and when, welding gas is getting low now! Because the sump flange has been made in short sections of 6mm steel I was able to use a section of 60mm bar mounted in the lathe to put the oil feed hole in and make a recess for the O-ring that seals against the timing cover face This is a normal Saab shortblock steel sump flange laid over my sump flange The next priority is to get the pick-up pipe mounted and beginnings of the internal baffles before welding the bowl over the top...
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jeep Grand Cherokee back axlesowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Feb 13, 2016 12:16:18 GMT
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I did a bit more hunting and it appears the Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ series did not in fact have the Dana 44 axle fitted, but the D44A so will not work with what I had in mind.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Feb 11, 2016 10:48:50 GMT
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Impressive as always, and thanks for continuing and explaining how you're making the Pop IVA compliant, those pics of the polystyrene ball are very helpful in giving a real-world example of how they apply the interior radius rules
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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V12 coffee tablesowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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I like that a lot, the LED's, stilts and the Snap On worktop, brilliant!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Feb 10, 2016 22:14:37 GMT
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Top stuff! Very inspiring. Very, inspiring.....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jeep Grand Cherokee back axlesowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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There is a cadburys sticker missing from that diff cover ! [sigh] I only want the casing to fit Jaguar internals to if it's suitable....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jeep Grand Cherokee back axlesowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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If it's the axle from the late 90s one (think ours was called an orvis?) with the 4.0l straight six boat anchor, don't bother. We destroyed one of them, pretty much all of it died, and shredded the diffs, them bought another cheaply as we wondered if they were all that cack. Killed that one in short order too, again, pretty much all of it including the diffs. Considering how pants the engine was, and the fact it was on an awful slush box, the diffs should really have fared better. There's no drain hole in the diff casing, so I yanked the pan off, only to find bits of gear tooth in both of both cars' diffs. You need a special additive to keep the ATB diff happy, which I'm guessing had been missed out at various points in their lives, and biggest issue of all, THERE IS NO CENTRE DIFF!!! There's a direct chain drive. What the actual ferk? If you tried to park it in a tight space, the nose would bounce up and down as the wind up found it's way out through the inside front tyre. Tyre squeal all over the shop, power steering howling like a wookie that's caught it's cock in it's flys, and wobbling about like a fat drunkard on a waterbed. It was so bad I'll avoid driving anything that's been parked next to one, let alone using any part of one. Absolute bobbins. That's not the one, early 2000's models I'm thinking of. It's the Dana44 I'm after, which copied by Salisbury gave us the 4HA axle type, Jaguars etc. Diff cover that looks like this:
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Jeep Grand Cherokee back axlesowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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You need to understand which Grand Cherokee you mean. The ZJ went 93-99 & have bearing issues. Also a different PCD to the later ones. The WJ/WG went 99-05 & are much better. Just had mine rebuilt with new diff bearings. These are 5 x 5" PCD the V8s have Quadradrive & LSDs front & rear. Useful info here:- www.wjjeeps.com/service/maintenance_wj.htmThe 99-05 WJ, should be 5x5" and apparently about 62" wide? I've been reading so much conflicting info on these, the American sites say they had different axles depending on engine and towing pack option, and also the Dana44 used in them had an alloy centre housing? I did find one reference that the alloy housing was just for home markets and that the UK should have the regular steel centre casing? I'm not interested in the internals as if it's closely related to the Salisbury then in theory the Powerlock unit I have should drop in? I just want a suitable axle casing to work with so I don't have to have one of my spare Scimitar axles re-tubed/widened if there's an off the shelf donor. I've seen a few on ebay that look about right to me, just need some positive info before committing to having one delivered...
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