sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Modifying a fuel tank for efisowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Apr 26, 2016 15:50:02 GMT
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Sounds like a good plan , I have two Bosch 44.s fed through filters direct from the bottom of the tank facing back wards as mines mid mounted so they can't starve and works a treat , Return line fed into the pot and is say it's a winner Sounds promising I guess I could make a small swirl pot to fit somewhere under the rear, return from the engine to create a swirl and then another return from the centre back to the tank, or keep it simple and have a return from the engine direct to the tank?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Modifying a fuel tank for efisowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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One thought that springs to mind is the lack of internal baffling could lead to one outlet sucking air under hard cornering / low tank levels. Could you not just use one outlet (plus return) and just mount the tank on a slight angle, towards the outlet? I could fit some baffles, to fit the outlets without welding I'd need to cut a hole in the top and fit an access plate which I could drop the baffles in from. The tank fits the hole it sits in perfectly, they slide in and are clamped in place. My thinking was that two outlets feeding a remote reservoir 12" lower than the base should prevent air being sucked through even under low level and cornering when one outlet could suck air above the main feed to the pump?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Modifying a fuel tank for efisowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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On my Rover P6 which I've converted to run Megasquirt efi I want to change it from a low pressure pump feeding a swirl pot and high pressure pump to a single high pressure pump fed direct from the fuel tank. The tank itself is very wide, almost cylindrical in a way and sits widthways above the back axle between the bot and the back seat. My idea is to attach two large gravity feeds to each side and run them downwards, probably about 12" vertically to a sump/reservoir which has a single feed to the high pressure pump, is this a good idea or is it incredibly flawed? I'd rather not go around welding the tank as internally the plating is still spot on (a rarity) and in my mind cutting an access hole in the top and sealing in a pair of AN8 hose fittings to the bottom is a quick, simple, and possibly workable solution. Any ideas/opinions?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Apr 24, 2016 17:12:15 GMT
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Last Edit: Dec 3, 2017 10:50:40 GMT by sowen
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Apr 22, 2016 20:17:04 GMT
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Last Edit: Dec 3, 2017 10:56:23 GMT by sowen
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Apr 16, 2016 16:35:01 GMT
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Last Edit: Dec 3, 2017 11:18:14 GMT by sowen
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Re the higher ratio 5th, i spotted an anomaly in that to accomadate different ratios without casing clearancing issues the 0.77 5th of a vitesse can be changed to 0.63 ish via the usage of a van gear pair I'm not sure if the r380 has the same issue The reason for the strange gear setup is that the van gearbox has a lower ratio input to the layshaft and a slightly higher 5th ratio to end up short of a cars fifth so in the lt77 case fitting a car/petrol 5th gearset to a van box would see a 1:1ish fifth I never would've thought of that on the LT77, but yes does make sense! I have a suffix G LT77 from a van and the input shaft from a Land Rover was a direct fit, and from memory the saloon LT77's have a completely different set of ratios. As far as I can tell the van and 4x4 R380's share the basic gearsets/ratios too, I guess I won't 110% know for sure until I pull it apart...
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Apr 14, 2016 21:33:40 GMT
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I remember the neighbors complaining when I had my last V8 with four branches and twin 3" stainless pipes especially at 5.30 am I had to roll it down the hill then start it. My last V8 was built by Dave Porters racing team mechanic, 3.5 with 3.9 injection off a Range Rover that was chipped etc, It was extremely quick. The gearbox I had was an LT77 with 2/3rd gears from a Sherpa diesel fitted pulled like a train and literally wiped the floor with all the boy racers in the area. Sourcing parts myself for my 6 pot, with its engine in bits while I sort the head gasket then onto welding and paint. I'm after an off side rear arch repair panel if you ever come across one, managed to land a ns off eBay last week. There's got to be something about the sportier SD1 exhaust manifolds because even my old Land Rover V8 with a straight through 2.5" side exit was never as loud! I'm certain I've got a Land Rover cam in my SD1 now as that's what I would've bought all those years ago for my last V8 and salvaged it when I parted the engine out. I think it's hurt the top end performance but on a little rolling road session it made about 170bhp as is and needing some more fine tuning to the fuel and ignition tables. With a higher compression, mild cam and spot on fueling I reckon it could possibly get close to the 200bhp mark. I've never seen any repair panels for the SD1, only nos replacement panels from Rimmer's. My rear arches are bubbling and it's had some bodywork repairs on one side in the past so my plan is take the whole rear outer off and put a new one on, save rubbing it all down!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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1984 Rover SD1 Turbo V8 sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Apr 13, 2016 17:10:19 GMT
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I was wondering if this bruiser was still around. Still rebuilding mine at the minute. Yep still about, not really done much with it recently apart from waking the neighbours up when I start it up Still gathering spares as and when I've got the money and I think/see something I want, now got a pair of front inner wings to go in the pile with the new rear quarters and sills, and planning on a set of door skins too Also got a replacement gearset for the R380 to put a 0.73 ratio 5th gear in, which would bring the cruise rpm down to about 2000rpm at 70mph I've been thinking about squeezing some more out of the little 3500, it's running well since I chucked an old spare cam in. I've got an idea to skim a pair of spare heads to bring the compression up (can't be bothered with the time/effort/cost of pistons) and just port match the heads and manifold to suit. It's not an immediate plan as I have a P6 and Land Rover to put back on the road first.....
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Last Edit: Mar 9, 2018 21:22:05 GMT by sowen
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Mar 25, 2016 21:42:00 GMT
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Mar 23, 2016 22:52:04 GMT
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Last Edit: Dec 3, 2017 11:24:26 GMT by sowen
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Mar 22, 2016 10:32:17 GMT
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Ive had a look inside a suffix G and a D to come to a conclusion that anything older than a G is noticably weaker, namely as the G and H recieved 20% wider gears as per the r380 but retains the lt77 bearing and synchro architecture I ragged a G suffix continously on the 'wrong' sae 80 oil and only killed it 40k later because the oil level unnoticeably dropped enough to cease lubricating the input shaft bearing which relies on splash lubrication unlike the pressure feed to all the other ones, now ive got a D suffix fitted, ive less faith in its robustness but its easily up to normal use Imo a late R380 will live beind a turbo Saab comfortably if maintained well Yep that's what I've seen by pulling them apart. Upto suffix C they had quite small bearings throughout and were more or less standard fit with all the BL cars including V8's apart from the SD1 Vitesse that had the marginally better suffix D which wasn't in reality much of an improvement. Suffix E and F were I think the Land Rover equivalents so pretty poor too. I have a spare suffix G LT77 from a Sherpa van and those are quite chunky in comparison to the earlier rwd variants. I think there was then a dual synchro variant upto the mid 90's when the R380 superseded the LT77, and they cope happily behind most of the mid to late 90's Land Rover's when used, abused and tuned! I think it's just the old myth of running atf with the early suffix C 'boxes that gives them the poor reputation with many people.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Mar 21, 2016 21:41:17 GMT
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I have finished off 2 LT77s behind a std 3.5 RV8 in my TR7 so they are definitely not up too much the latest thing people have started using is the RX8 6 speed which is supposed to be bomb proof and dirt cheap, there was a guy selling adaptor plates for various engines at the nec classic car show. What suffix were they and what failed? Also what oil was in them?
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Last Edit: Mar 21, 2016 21:45:19 GMT by sowen
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Mar 21, 2016 17:14:22 GMT
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I've seen r380s behind some fairly tuned v8s, and they're really abused off road. It seems to cope quite well, but there are a couple of problems that turn up after a fair few miles - the bearing on the 5th gear lay shaft doesn't get enough oil, or the casting's not quite perfect or something, as it ends up with the bearing spinning in the case, making a racket and a mess. Not heard of many getting properly destroyed though, so that's hopeful I've come across a few people claiming to have shredded early LT77's behind V8's, and likewise, not really seen anything bad about the R380. I have one in my Discovery behind the tdi, I drive it hard, foot down hard all the time and it's not bust yet, and no extra volume coming from the transmission tunnel either. Quality gear oil rather than atf is probably the key ingredient! The alternatives are the usual T5, or go more exotic with a BMW 530d gearbox with a custom welded casing. In my situation, having a few R380's spare and the fact that there's already one in the car makes it a no-brainer to fit a custom bellhousing to get it running. The clutch is most likely to give out long before the gearbox fails.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Mar 20, 2016 17:37:26 GMT
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Looking good , how will the box cope with some boost up it ? I'll find out when it breaks! It's an R380, apparently rated at 380Nm, in the real world I don't know how long it'll last? They are damned heavy, larger gears inside compared to the preceding LT77 with all of the larger bearings as standard. The usual Vauxhall R25 and R28 I've read are only rated at 250Nm and 280Nm respectively, and I've read a few people are killing those with hard use with higher power so hopefully the Rover gearbox should fare better for longer.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Mar 20, 2016 15:37:34 GMT
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Last Edit: Dec 3, 2017 11:34:02 GMT by sowen
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Mar 17, 2016 22:24:19 GMT
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Last Edit: Dec 3, 2017 12:00:00 GMT by sowen
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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I think the best advice would be go on Youtube and watch a few videos of how to replace the bearing on your exact car model. Most modern cars are very different, either you have to disassemble everything to get the bearing out or unbolt the hub assembly and bolt a new one on....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Feb 25, 2016 22:20:31 GMT
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I thought it would most certainly have to come off for the official business to happen, then back on as a showpiece
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Feb 25, 2016 21:46:48 GMT
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Yeah, can't remember which argoshield it is, maybe 15, but whatever my local welding shop suggested for thin metal, it's the bomb. A world away from my old pub gas co2 affair! We've got a BOC account, not cheap but well worth it if doing a lot of welding and there's an agricultural supplies just down the road so exchanges are easy. Some blingy aluminium adapters for the oil cooler take off came through the post, will need to source some more fittings and hose then eventually find somewhere to fit the oil cooler itself With a new gas bottle the welding was finished off on the sump, and then given a coat of primer Next job was to do a leak test, so I took the sump to work and borrowed an offcut of aluminium, sealed and bolted it down then filled if some aviation grade fuel and waited a few hours.... A few pin hole leaks appeared, most likely caused by the pause in welding. Drilled and ground out the pin holes then re-welded, appears to seal up well now Hunting on Ebay I've found a suitable throttle body, 68mm throttle, fitted with a TPS and two seperate throttle arms, plan is one for the pedal, and the second for a fast idle as I've been having trouble getting the fast idle valve working Looks at home on the front of the inlet manifold, only issues are that it doesn't bolt on yet and dwarfs the size of the plenum! My first plan is to split the plenum along it's length, make it tapered and have the throttle body flange welded on the end at 45 degrees... Also made a start sorting out the ancillaries and making the EDIS trigger wheel adapter for the crankshaft pulley Sump painted black looks at home on the bottom of the engine now, just internal baffles to sort out now Got the aluminium adapter-spacer rings delivered so once I take the engine off the stand I'll make a start finishing off the gearbox adapter
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Last Edit: Dec 3, 2017 12:20:50 GMT by sowen
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