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Ah, missed that. Still worth checking the relay is being switched by the ECU (ideally with a multimeter or at least listening to see if it's clicking on and off as it should be) If the relay is clicking the fault is probably "after" the relay, if it isn't being switched then the fault is before it and could be the ECU, the ECU relay, the ignition switch or any number of things. Do the dash lights (check engine light etc) still work as normal when the car won't start?
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Check the fuel pump relay (IIRC it's the bottom right one). Bridge the two terminals marked 87 and 30 on the relay in the fuse box with a paperclip or something (you probably won't have 87a) and the fuel pump should run, and the car should start on the key. If the pump doesn't run, then the pump or something else like the ignition barrel or ECU could be faulty.
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Last Edit: Mar 4, 2013 17:14:07 GMT by cobblers
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Feb 28, 2013 20:16:09 GMT
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Those lower wishbone bolts are a right pain in the aren't they! My rear camber and toe are completely cocked all over the place, but I can't (be arsed to) shift the bolts to adjust it because I know I'll end up having to cut them off and it'll turn into a much bigger job. I'm not usually phased by even the most stubborn fasteners, but it took me about an hour to get the rear wishbones off the T25 I broke, I ended up just grinding the mounts off the shell!
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Feb 28, 2013 19:09:42 GMT
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These are pretty much all bolloxed by now - you'd be very very lucky to pick a decent one up. I broke a van with a weber replacement on and I had about a dozen people queuing up to buy it off me for very strong money. In fact, I sold my old 2.1 DJ engine and injection system to a bloke (for about £700!) who couldn't find a decent carb for his DG so just replaced the lot! I wouldn't waste £40/50+ on a used carb unless it was guaranteed. I know people who have been through 4 or 5 supposedly good 2nd hand pierbergs before giving up and just rebuilding their original - the rebuild kit was £40 and if you are methodical and take plenty of photos and lay everything out in order carefully on a clean bench there's nothing mega complex about it. www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Carb-rebuild-kit-for-WC-Pierburg-carbs-049198571S_act_shop.product_pID_48558664_lang_EN_country_GB.htmAlternatively there is a company called Bromyard VW that does a tested exchange rebuilt unit for about £200.
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Last Edit: Feb 28, 2013 19:12:04 GMT by cobblers
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Feb 28, 2013 17:17:16 GMT
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Did you eat any of the grease?
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Feb 23, 2013 17:09:01 GMT
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It's "probably" safe enough if the actual bead itself is undamaged - it just looks like it's lost the flap that provides the seal. However, since it's lost the flap, you'll have trouble getting it to seal and stay inflated. Unless it's a really awkward size, if money is an issue you'd be better off spending £25 on a part worn than pumping a tenner into getting this fitted and having it leak air all the time.
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Feb 23, 2013 10:57:26 GMT
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Wow! This is awesome, thanks for taking the time to sling some photos up!
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Feb 19, 2013 18:17:33 GMT
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It might not fade it exactly as the rest, but spraying concentrated Traffic Film Remover on it neat and leaving it in the sun will make it haze over more and "dry it out".
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Feb 13, 2013 20:06:20 GMT
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Ideally you need to fill the groove of the seal up with it before putting the wire in the seal to pull the screen in. I suppose you could try and pump some in after the fact, but you stand a good chance of getting in a mess and still having a leaky screen - it depends how far you can pull the screen seal back I guess.
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Feb 13, 2013 18:52:08 GMT
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Last Edit: Feb 13, 2013 18:53:12 GMT by cobblers
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Feb 12, 2013 20:32:56 GMT
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Ideally you'd want it in a hose with water flowing through it all the time - one that's not controlled by the thermostat like feeds to and from the radiator are. If the stat sticks shut, the engine will cook and the gauge will still read cold!
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Feb 10, 2013 10:04:15 GMT
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Peugeots (106 206 306 etc) are the same thread, normal bolts for steelies are 60degree taper.
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Golf golf golf golf. Easier to fix, more reliable and will do mega MPGs, and best of all they aren't a mk4 astra or even a vauxhall of any kind.
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Yeah, a big flap wheel would be fine if you are talking small amounts like this, just keep it stirring around so you don't focus too much on a particular corner and you'll get things more than accurate enough.
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Last Edit: Feb 9, 2013 18:16:11 GMT by cobblers
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What are the front wheel bearings like? is one of them heating up and binding perhaps? Or maybe a warped front disk and sticky caliper.
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Nope, saxo and 206 are different axles unfortunately. Saxo and 106 are the same though.
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There's a few companies that will make alloys as wide as you like, ie image wheels.
Or, you could get some 17" steels banded (VW T5 Startline steels are 17") again to however wide you want.
What's your budget and does the offset matter?
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I've used the sekller above a couple of times and both times the paint took weeks to arrive, and it wasn't packed properly and was beginning to leak out. That said it was mega cheap (I painted a car and a van in 2k for about £70) so you do get what you pay for.
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Jan 29, 2013 19:34:16 GMT
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You can still get it from all the same places, but now it comes with a "for industrial use only" sticker on it. Same goes for 2k (which TBH is better paint but it's a bit iffy health wise)
I'd also recommend Jawel.co.uk, you can ring them up etc and they know their onions over the phone and will happily put you together a kit of stuff for a full paint job and stuff. Used them for loads of stuff over the years.
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Jan 29, 2013 19:28:14 GMT
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+1 for right click stuff. I've fitted dozens of his kits and the only issues I've ever had were when the motors weren't strong enough to pull the locks on a sprinter, but that wasn't the fault of the kit. That said, avoid the fake VW flip fobs they sell, if you use the key blade they will fall to pieces after a few weeks, and the buttons are so sensitive you'll unlock your car every time you sit down with the key in your pocket,
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Last Edit: Jan 29, 2013 19:29:50 GMT by cobblers
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