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As the MOT tester can't remove the M/C lid and some reservoirs are opaque (eg metal) the colour of the fluid is immaterial IMO :-) As an aside, regular changing of brake fluid is often mentioned on here, but how many people actually do it? My daily driver, a 58 plate VW Fox given to me by my mother-in law has never had the fluid changed, according to the service log before I got it and I haven't changed it and the brakes are still very good. I wonder if this 'change the fluid every two years' is a bit of a myth, perpetrated my garages and fluid suppliers? :-) I know that mineral fluids are hygroscopic but silicone based fluids aren't. The manual says the tester should not remove it, not that they must not . I know my tester has always removed the caps to check the fluid on most cars, generally to check the level of the brake fluid. Whether he still does it now is another thing. On some cars like the BMW E60s, you can't even check the brake fluid level without removing the scuttle panel, it's an indicator only on that to check it. 1.8 Brake fluid Hydraulic brake fluid level checks are confined to transparent reservoirs, reservoir caps should not be removed. On many vehicles, you will not be able to see if the brake fluid is contaminated. You should only fail a vehicle if you can clearly see that the fluid is contaminated. Defect Category Brake fluid contaminated Major And the difference between should not and must not is? :-)
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The issue is the brake fluid absorbs water, in normal driving it will feel fine, take spell of spirited driving, a steep descent when heavily laden or just a very hot day and the fluid will get hot enough for the water to boil, then suddenly you have steam rather than fluid and no brakes, people have been killed on track days when this happens. I would certainly advise it is changed every 2 or 3 years, also keeps the bleed nipples free and reduces internal corrosion I just buy a litre of fluid and with the aid of an assistant pump it through the system one bleed point at a time, only takes half an hour or so. Good point.
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In drag racing, more weight over the rear wheels can equate to quicker 1/4 mile ETs, so the bag of cement can make you faster :-) This! We can get a Beetle to wheelie with 120bhp, but its unlikely to go around a corner that well. Everything taken off the front should be balanced with weight out of the back if possible - that's why my drag bug ran a relatively heavy battery in front of the front axle instead of behind the drivers seat. It balanced out the lack of spare wheel well and the tiny fuel tank. Agreed, weight distribution is important. Wheelies just slow you down so. in this case, extra weight at the front will make you faster :-) I disagree, however, with your statement that weight removed from the front should be balanced with weight from the rear. My replacement engine is a lot heavier than the original so removing weight from the front has been a priority. Every car build is different so there are very few hard and fast rules that apply to all cars.
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I know nothing about these engines, but how about coming at the problem from a different direction? When the sump is off you will be able to see if it is possible to modify it so it can be removed with the engine in-situ.
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I guess that I have reached a time in my life where I have had enough of second hand stuff :-)
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With regard to coloured brake fluid, I can't find anything that confirms your statement that coloured brake fluid is illegal. All I have managed to find is: "Contaminated (dirty) brake fluid is a major fail. Not sure how that will work as the MOT tester isn't allowed to remove the fluid cap." Could you point me towards your info source? Thanks I may have got confused on this one. It's an American law ; whether that law applies over here I can't remember. However, a friend of mine has suffered that as a failure. The tester swore blind he had windscreen wash in his brake fluid, and insisted he flushed it out, and that he was 'saving' him. Thus that could be considered contamination to most unfamiliar testers. Brake Fluid ColourThe colour of brake fl uid is controlled by the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) CommiƩ ee under their Specifi caƟ on FMVSS 571.116. This mandates the following colours; • DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1, should be ‘colourless to amber’, • Silicone DOT 5 should be ‘purple’ • Mineral based brake fl uids (LHM) should be ‘green’. How and why were these colours chosen? Historically, brake fl uids have been many colours. Both blue and crimson have been popular in the past and sƟ ll are in some areas of the world. However, other automoƟ ve fl uids are also coloured blue and red — anƟ freeze/coolants and screen washes, for example, are usually blue, while automaƟ c transmission fl uids are oŌ en red. Thus there was considerable potenƟ al for confusion and the use of the wrong fl uid. In 1972 the FMVSS specifi ed the above colours which has no doubt prevented many problems. ConvenƟ onal (DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1) brake fl uids may therefore vary in colour from virtually water-white to a deep amber colour. It should be remembered that the actual colour has no eff ect on the performance of the brake fl uid, but merely helps to prevent the use of an incorrect product. As the MOT tester can't remove the M/C lid and some reservoirs are opaque (eg metal) the colour of the fluid is immaterial IMO :-) As an aside, regular changing of brake fluid is often mentioned on here, but how many people actually do it? My daily driver, a 58 plate VW Fox given to me by my mother-in law has never had the fluid changed, according to the service log before I got it and I haven't changed it and the brakes are still very good. I wonder if this 'change the fluid every two years' is a bit of a myth, perpetrated my garages and fluid suppliers? :-) I know that mineral fluids are hygroscopic but silicone based fluids aren't.
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Last Edit: Jul 6, 2019 22:52:21 GMT by nalesutol
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Of course, should have read the post more carefully :-)
This is interesting, IMO.
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For goodness sake man. It's G CLAMP Cramp is something you get in your leg whilst leaning into an engine bay to apply yet more bodging sealants. www.technologystudent.com/equip1/cramp1.htmen.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clamp_(tool)"In the United Kingdom and Australia, the term cramp is often used instead when the tool is for temporary use for positioning components during construction and woodworking; thus a G cramp or a sash cramp" === These days it is more often referred to, incorrectly, as a clamp. But actually a clamp does a slightly different thing to a cramp. The easiest way to explain the difference is that a clamp is usually hinged and so closes with a reducing angle, and a cramp approaches closure with parallel faces. In much the same way there was a time when planners and strategists were totally different people doing fundamentally different jobs. But these days if you describe yourself as a strategist people just default to referring to you as a planner, and expecting you to do planner things. Evolution of language always reduces, economises and defaults to general umbrella terms. At first those terms are used incorrectly, but as there is no rule book for language it ceases to be deemed incorrect once it has gained a critical mass of acceptance. So in one way, you are mistaken, but by contemporary standards, you are correct. *puffs pipe* *strokes beard* Acronym being a classic case in point :-) Also crow bar :-)
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It's a shame that it has to be mounted in front of the rad, compromising the rad's efficiency (you moved the overflow canister for that very reason). The narrowness of the front end restricts location options, but is there nowhere where it could be mounted at 90 degrees to it's existing orientation with a small vane to direct air to it?
With regard to cooling the oil, is it actually necessary? I assume that it is otherwise why go to the trouble of fitting one? I take it that it is thermostatically controlled?
No criticism implied, just curious :-) I planned to fit an oil cooler but decided against it as the sump has been enlarged and I have no plans to do roundy roundy racing or long trips on congested roads :-)
PS. Love the bracket work.
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Last Edit: Jul 6, 2019 8:08:38 GMT by nalesutol
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As long as there not cracked, look in good serviceable condition, and a lot cheaper, there's no issue. After all every by car you buy comes with second hand springs 😁. Correct, but my concern would be why are they for sale?
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As above. If you want to go above and beyond, then consider a Super DOT 4 fluid. The dry boiling point is higher than that of normal DOT 4, and unlike some DOT 5.1 fluids, it can go on longer before it requires changing again: 1) Ford Super DOT 4. Jags and Ford are meant to use this due to its higher boiling point and lower viscosity. It's cheap as well at £9/litre. 2) Motul RBF 600. The original and the best. Cheap it isn't at £20/litre www.opieoils.co.uk/p-894-motul-rbf-600-factory-line-racing-brake-fluid-high-performance-fully-synthetic-dot-4-rbf600.aspxYou have ATE Super Blue (I think it's now ATE 200 due to Brake fluid now being illegal to be coloured for an MOT due to testers that get confused), but the price difference makes the other two seem like viable options. With regard to coloured brake fluid, I can't find anything that confirms your statement that coloured brake fluid is illegal. All I have managed to find is: "Contaminated (dirty) brake fluid is a major fail. Not sure how that will work as the MOT tester isn't allowed to remove the fluid cap." Could you point me towards your info source? Thanks
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That's a good common sense video. I tried explaining it's OK to cut certain springs to people in the past but gave up in the end Tell me about it :-) Also, your are wasting your breath trying to explain that lowering a car affects the steering and suspension geometry but, hey ho, not my tyres :-)
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Never a bad thing to have someone who knows what they are looking for check over the vehicle. £40 isn't a lot to pay for a safety check, especially on an old, long time stored, vehicle.
When my Elan complete rebuild is finished it will go for an MOT, just so someone independent can give it the once over.
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Weight reduction effects more than just handling tho 😉. That should answer your question. If I told you putting a bag of cement in your boot would make your car faster would you belive me? I'm hoping not lol! In drag racing, more weight over the rear wheels can equate to quicker 1/4 mile ETs, so the bag of cement can make you faster :-)
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Moved part of the bench top from my old machine shop to the new one. It fits perfectly, almost as if I had designed it that way :-). Turned it over as the original surface was a tad buggered, but may still cover it with a thin laminate. This will be the composite manufacturing bench.
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Jun 27, 2019 21:17:02 GMT
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Last Edit: Jun 27, 2019 21:17:33 GMT by nalesutol
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Jun 27, 2019 11:35:31 GMT
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Wow! Your thread seems to have dropped off my my recent feed. Just caught up with the garage build and fit out. It looks fantastic and a good height too. You've also convinced me to invest in some of the flooring too. Thanks. Maybe I should ask B&Q for a sales commission :-) Only buy one pack first to see if they are suitable as they are quite soft.
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Last Edit: Jun 27, 2019 11:36:02 GMT by nalesutol
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Jun 26, 2019 13:44:08 GMT
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Still moving equipment into the new garage. All the lighter stuff is now moved, just leaving the heavy b.u.g.g.e.r.s to be shifted. The lightest of the heavy stuff is the compressor and I managed to move that by combining what little strength I could muster and an ancient transport method. f
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Last Edit: Jun 26, 2019 13:45:02 GMT by nalesutol
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Jun 23, 2019 21:31:17 GMT
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No I twas going to get boards of birch ply laser cut to interlock with the foam that way nothing can slip. That way I can use axle stands or trolley jacks and not tear the foam. That would look great but a tad overkill IMO :-) The tiles grip concrete pretty well so I am going to take your idea, but simplify it. By fitting the edging strips, that come with the tiles, around the inside edges of the space left by the removed tile, the timber insert can be a simple square. But, hey, if you have the facilities to enable a wooden tile to be cut, brilliant, I would like 8 please :-) (only kidding). The only issue I can see is if the track and wheelbase don't match the tile spacing.
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Last Edit: Jun 23, 2019 21:32:57 GMT by nalesutol
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