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Sept 14, 2017 14:48:46 GMT
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Fingers crossed that it gets a new home and you are rewarded for the effort.
I have found more financial success in assembling other people's visions at their expense, rather than trying to sell my own efforts for a profit; much like you did with the Coyote swap. The down side is that I don't get to realize my own visions.
I think your method where you give birth to your vision, yet leave enough work-to-do on the table so that it can still become the new owner's work, is a good compromise.
Is it on e-bay yet?
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Sept 4, 2017 17:51:34 GMT
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What is your guess at the finished weight?
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Sept 3, 2017 21:39:30 GMT
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I have tried to like the disc hub-caps, but just can't do it!
How about doing a fake patina so the new wheels look kinda like the original wheels?
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Sept 1, 2017 19:22:15 GMT
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Have you had it down the road yet?
Curious what the bodywork is going to be thinking when it gets up to about 80 mph? What do you figure it previous top speed was in its previous life? Maybe 50 mph?
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Sept 1, 2017 14:16:45 GMT
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While waiting for parts and the Su carbs to return form the re-builders, I am cleaing up some of the cruddy bits. Keeping in mind that this is not meant to be a restoration, but rather a stabilization and preservation effort, the POR will do a good job of keeping future boot rust at bay. Course the shiny black paint does not look quite right, so lets give it a quick coat of International Harvester red implement paint out of the rattle can. Bit on the bright side still, but maybe if I leave the boot open and grind a bunch of steel and some nice dusty fillers nearby, it will bring back the nice barn-find patina? And while I am not having the carbs rebuilt to a show-car standard with polished and replated bits, I do want it to look tidy, so I cleaned up all the rust and gave the bits and bobs a lick of paint. Not a lot left to do until the parts order and the carbs arrive, but I do have a battery cable that is routed such that it goes under the passengers feet and out the heater duct into the engine bay. Might need to do something about that?!
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Aug 31, 2017 17:27:43 GMT
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The rollers work great. As a tool junkie, I keep saying I am going to buy one for next time, but then "Next Time" gets in front of me and I have not ordered one. Good thing I own a hammer and a vice.
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Aug 31, 2017 12:47:31 GMT
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Big lot of parts on order so in a holding patern for the most part. Decided that the boot could use a scuff and coat of POR rust encapsulator. Will finish off later with an IH red that looks a bit like what is in the reat of the trunk.
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Aug 27, 2017 23:42:10 GMT
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Today was all about brake lines. I re-made the front ones so that they followed a rational path. Wanted to pass on a trick for those that are working with rolled stock brake-lines. Trying to make it nice and straight is a PITA. Here is the run as unrolled for the front to rear line: What I do is to measure and cut a generous length. I clamp one end in the vice. The other end I clamp in a vice-grip pliers. I then administer a generous whack to the pliers with a small sledge hammer, See how nice and straight that comes out? Here is the new line compared to the one that was crammed in and under the car:
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Aug 26, 2017 20:14:16 GMT
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So, got the rear brakes and e-brake buttoned up and off the list. Nothing terrible going on, just needed to de-rust and clean everything up. Ran new rear lines made of cupro-nickel just to be safe. Going to need full brake-line replacement as these are representative of what was on the car: I did not mangle the lines taking them out, this is how they were routed and not held in by anything. The one that runs to the rear brakes was the worst as it hung way below the chassis. The front junction block was plugged solid with crud. Need to do a bit of research to see how they are meant to be routed. I think I can do better!
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Last Edit: Aug 26, 2017 20:18:30 GMT by bjornagn
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Aug 25, 2017 19:42:33 GMT
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Its your birthday? Pull your pin and have a blast! We'll be here when you recover.
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Aug 25, 2017 11:31:25 GMT
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Welcome to the weird world of Healeys! That is a great car to restore and with such a history - well done to try and not "make like new"......will watch this with great interest. No danger or over-restoring this one; it is going out looking exactly like it came in except for some rust clean-up in the trunk area. The ATF- acetone mix worked again to free up the rear brake adjusters. I have always resorted to heat to free those things up but two days of soaking did the trick. The Healeys got disc brakes with the 100-6 model. The calipers have a number 14 in the casting and I think that might be a clue. I plan to pull the calipers apart, but not before I can identify what they are and get parts.
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Last Edit: Aug 25, 2017 11:33:15 GMT by bjornagn
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Aug 24, 2017 22:50:09 GMT
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Got the rear brakes all de-gunged, de-rusted and POR coated. Ready to go back together. The front has run into a snag in that one of the hubs has been damaged by a bearing gone wrong. Not sure where to go from here as I am not even sure what Model Healey the hubs are from; recal that this car should not have disc brakes.
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Aug 19, 2017 19:17:03 GMT
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OK my fellow car loving rust hating friends...I am here to TESTIFY! I am going to testify about the miraculous powers of 50/50 acetone and ATF! HALLELUJAH!!!
Praise the lord after a night of soaking in the brew the rear drum came off like a lamb to slaughter. It was AMAZING!
Seriously, I had heard of this wiches brew, but as a life-long manual shifter, who has ATF kicking around? So, with this bleeping drum refusing to come off even with a puller cranked as tight as I dared, I realized that I had ATF and Acetone in the garage at the same time. Without much hope I mixed some up, hit the studs with a liberal dose of the stuff, and went in for the night. Damn if the drum did not come off this morning with little effort from the puller.
I am a believer!
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OK, I am about ready to smack something with my mini sledge thato is NOT a left rear brake drum...mostly thinking about the moron who though of putting a wheel stud through a 1.356" boss so it can rust weld itself to the stud. Seriously...who does that? I managed to get the RH one off with a puller, but the LH one has barely moved. Afraid to put more force on it with the puller because I suspect it would be very expensive to replace. Going to let IT soak in a mix of acetone and transmission fluid and I am going to go soak in beer.
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Aug 18, 2017 13:52:52 GMT
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A practical flooring solution is an industrial rubber floor. Not overly expensive. Sold like carpet so wide enough for the truck. Pretty much indestructible and power-washer-able if you want to carry dirty stuff like dirt bikes or kids. As a bonus, your stuff wont be slidding all over the place every time you start-stop or turn. Edit: Why do you have 120V outlets in the Van?
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Last Edit: Aug 18, 2017 13:56:34 GMT by bjornagn
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Aug 18, 2017 11:45:44 GMT
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Is work on your own car postponed til this one is done? For the most part. I have a full time day job and it is summer, so stuff like fishing, house-projects and socializing are in play. But cheer up, winter is coming and in about 150 days I will be retired and have plenty of time ( but little $) to work on the Molvo.
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Pulled the front wheel to see what kind of shape the drum brakes were in. Pretty bad I would have to say Not only are they messed-up to the point where they had turned into disc brakes, but it looks like the calipers were new when the car was parked. No rust on the exposed part of the puck, no rust on the hardware and the pads are full thickness. As a bonus, the suspension bushings, shocks and kingpins are all tight. Someone took care of this car. The rear drums on a Healey 100 are a royal PITA to get off. The stud has to go through a boss in the drum that is over 1" thick, and of course it will always be rusted in the bore. Once it did come off, same story as up-front; brakes look like they were fresh when the car went down for it's nap. I am going to pull everything apart for cleaning and inspection, but it does look promising.
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Aug 17, 2017 12:57:03 GMT
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Finally got a chance to get a start on this project. Now, realize that this is a struggle for me. The tendency built into my DNA wants to tear this car down to the last nut and bolt and restore it to much better than new. The car is in such great shape bodywise that it would be a pleasure to refurbish the coachwork without having to do the endless task of welding and panel fitting. But that is not what this project is about. This car has a history. It was passed on from one brother to another when the owner passed. All the stuff that makes me scratch my head; like: why are the windshield post painted red?" Have a reason and a story. If I tore it down, it would be like erasing the pages in a book, and starting my own book from there. Som on task, goal is to make it run and be safe. Ignore the wiring that is entirely made up of white wired. Ignore the battery in the trunk. Ratty but untorn interior is not on the "To Do" list. Got the bonnet open finally and after finding the SUs trully gummed up, off they came. Likewise the fuel tank; it was 3/4 full of what smells like varnish. Hard to believe it holds fuel with all the fiberglass patching going on outside. The good news is that the trunk floor is solid despite looking like the rats nest that it is. I will put her up on stands tonight and see what lurks behind the drums. I already know that new brake lines are going to be required.
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Aug 16, 2017 17:34:52 GMT
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Here is some inspiration for you. You were thinking land-speed, I am thinking more road-course. That is unless you think some chick can drive a van faster than you?
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Last Edit: Aug 16, 2017 17:35:44 GMT by bjornagn
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Aug 16, 2017 11:47:24 GMT
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Is it really tilty or is it a by-product of being so high above the center of rotation?
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