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Another one of those jobs that I have been dreading as "Beyond my skill level" is off the list. We have a windscreen! ately I had hepled a friend rope in a windshield for a Mustang not long ago and it took some of the scary out of the task. The reality is that it takes longer to do the benchwork of putting the rubber around the window and the rope in the groove, than it does to locate the windshield in the hole and pull the rope. Kinda cool how it just sucks the window into place as the rope goes around the perimeter. This is a good example of a job that I would have contracted out a few years ago thinking it was beyond my skills. Now, if I can just figure how to get the trim on there, I will be happy. If not, it wont stop me from first drive. The insurance company wants a picture, might want to clean the old girl up a bit before I send that in...to much "Barn Find" dust on her.
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Last Edit: May 8, 2019 12:13:41 GMT by bjornagn
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Ambasador Blue
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Last Edit: May 6, 2019 15:41:20 GMT by bjornagn
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As a fellow Spridget engine swapper, I highly endorse this build. Bookmarked.
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I know that it is a day off work, but can someone explain to a colonial why it is called a "Bank" holiday?
The other thing worth mentioning is that the gun for applying the 3m undercoating is quite reasonable, so it should not stop people from adopting the method.
Ditto on the dynamat stuff, more flash than function in that stuff.
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I like to use the leaf blower for this task. Course in my case I am doing the entire shop cause the dust has got everywhere! I envy your dust collection equipment but it would not work with my technology
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Bit if a clown-car color mix-wise, but the solution to that will have to wait for a bit as the focus is now on getting the car on the road so I can shake down any driveability issues. For now, it is enough that I have a place to sit while doing so.
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Please take this the way it's meant, is there anything you can't do ?? Seats look superb as does the whole project. Please keep going, brilliant, Nigel I will take that as a compliment. Thank you. This has been one long learning experience and besides enfing up with a unique vehicle, I get to keep what I have learned. Not done yet. Anyone know how to rope in a front windshield? Pete
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It is OK and good enough. But as with all things, we learn as we go. I think I can do better and faster on the second one.
Regardless, I am pretty happy with the results.Snuck into the shop for a bit before work and got the two halves bolted together, so the PS side seat is officially done and ready to go back in the car. Hopefully start on the DS seat tonight and have it done by Sat.
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And the bottom is done.Now I just got to remember how the two halves went together. The only thing diminishing my sense of achievement is the reality that I still have the exact same job to do on the other side!
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Most classic body panels are 19 AWG. Good luck getting your hands on such and bless you if you can. So the decision is 18 awg or 20 awg. Go for the 18.
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Did this last night. Three hours and a lot of cussing and problem solving. One seatback done. Not perfect but I am not totally unhappy with the result either. The assembly instructions are not difficult to follow, just difficult to execute and no credit given to the fact. The main challenge ( other than the aftermarket headrest speakers) is that the instruction says to "Use hog rings to join the lister strip ( black strip) to the lister wire in the foam" What they don't tell you is that you need to use both hands and all of your body weight to actually get the two in close enough proximity to use said hog ring applier tool. The solution turned out to be to use loops of twine in a slip-knot to pull the pieces together and then use the hog ring pliers to join the two. I might switch to tie wraps for this since they self lock. for tham matter wonder if they might not be good enough to replace the metal rings? Next up will be the seat base...
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Little trick I like to do with MGBs that are not too rusty is what I call a "Rockerectomy". This is where there is rust on the lower part of the sill only, and I like to preserve the factory spotwelds around the door pinch weld, bottom of the a-post and outer foot-well. I use a grinder with a zip wheel to cut a straight edge just under the sill top, all the length of the sill. Plenty of room to check out the top bit and get some POR on the scene. If the middle membrane is sketchy, it can be trimmed back to let in a repair panel also. Then, you screw your courage to the newel post and cut the nice new expensive Heritage sill to match the bit left on the car. Yeah, it is a bit tricky to match but just sneak up on it. And then it is a simple matter of doing one long butt-weld to make it look like the sill was never changed. One of these days I will buy a spot-welder so I can make the pinch weld look factory also.
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Apr 27, 2019 11:58:09 GMT
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This is a similarly mental conversion to yours where a totally different modern front suspension/structure to OEM has been grafted into an old body... he also had the issue of an over wide track so "simply" remade the front suspension arms etc... his build was intended to be a "quick" one, but, as things often go, got a bit out of control..... may give you some ideas...?? Beware, LONG addictive read.. Sunbeam MinxWow...that Sunbeam build was a trip down memory lane. That thread was formative in putting the idea of a chassis swap into my head. One of the first "Epic" build threads I read. I wonderr how many other ships that build launched?
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Apr 26, 2019 18:54:32 GMT
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Just got off the phone with the insurance broker. Paying for insurance as of May 1st of this year....so its gonna happen.
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Apr 26, 2019 18:50:37 GMT
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As a fellow chassis swapper I have to say "Well done!"
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Apr 26, 2019 14:47:00 GMT
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I’m going to say it’s because the door frame at the ends prevents him getting the joggler in. You Sir earn a RRR badge (Retro Rides Response) only it's going to have to be virtual because I am fresh out of them And since these post have a large portion of educational material, don't forget to mention that the same trick applies to other places we use patch panels. PLAN AHEAD before you cut!
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Apr 25, 2019 13:53:09 GMT
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Still a lot of stuff to do. Some bureaucratic like get a safety inspection and get it insured and plated so I can drive it on the street for that first time. The rest is to make sure that this is not a bunch of parts in close formation by going over every nut and bolt with a spanner. And of course, the interior, but that can be a work in progress while I put miles on the car and sorting any mechanical issues.
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Apr 25, 2019 12:36:40 GMT
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Fitech pretty much lived up to the claims so far. Did a system leak check on the fuel lines, answered like 5 questions on the hand-held controller and turned the key. Engine fired like it had been doing this all of its life. The only adjustment I had to make was that the factory sets the idle AFR at like 13.7 or so...makes for a lot of smoke and stink in the shop. with a few keystrokes that was dialed in to 14.7 and the idle improved and the smoke and smell cleared right up. Pretty pleased so far, road test will tell the rest of the tale.
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