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And we are back! Tossed it back in (under?) the car and got this far. It shifts better than ever the clutch works and except for puting the exhaust back, it is all buttoned up. Maybe take it for a test drive after work tomorrow,
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Jul 10, 2019 11:48:39 GMT
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NOT fluid related. Not that that makes me feel any better. Pulled the box out and had a look inside. The 4th gear synchro/blocker rings were bent or broken causing a misalignment that would not let the slider move. Broken at red line Bent And as is to be expected with most T5 boxes that live in Mustangs, second gear has seen better days,, so might as well replace while in here, So, off to source parts and put the lot back together. The good news is that it comes out the bottom of the car without having to pull the engine or the exhaust.
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Found issue. My fault. Box still dead. Autopsy to come. Pretty sure it can be fixed, but it has to come out. Much easier to remove the box alone from below.
Speedo drive popped out on first very short drive. Caught the drip when I got back, plugged the drive abck in and went for another lap in a different direction. Had I gone the same way I would have seen that in less than 1/4 mile the entire contents of the gearbox lubricant had ejected via the speedo drive opening.
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This beautiful but evil machine has killed another gearbox. The T5 made it twice around the block before seizing the gear lever in third and calling it a day.
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Long time listener, first time caller.
I LOVE those really long threads that go on for days and days with every man and his dog commenting, so with that in mind I wanted to share my Volvo, my plans and see if I could get all the Retro Riders with Swedish barges to post up!
I want to have a BMW killing Swedish rocket!! I have two in the stable for the BMW killing Swede contention. First is the Molvo: Miata chassis and 302 power. You may or may not have stumbled on the build thread. The second is a 760 that I accidentally bought for $800 Cnd . Was cheap because the partially open window that you can see in the picture had been open for 2 years while stored outside. Owner ASSUMED that floors and interior were gone. Not the case. Bonus is that it is a fully runing car and this Ford 302 V8 resides under the bonnet It did occur to me that a Volvo V8 would have been the best option for the P1800 Wagon, but they are not easy or affordable this side of the pond. Looking forward to seeing your build progress.
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Last Edit: Jul 4, 2019 21:31:30 GMT by bjornagn
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Going by the look on his face. Sid seem somewhat less than satisfied with your housekeeping.
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Last Edit: Jul 4, 2019 20:34:44 GMT by bjornagn
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Funny you should mention this about the finishers. I really dislike the unfinished look. Actually have four sets of the triangular bits still in the packages. For the last 25 years. Going to get right on that. Someday.
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Last Edit: Jul 4, 2019 13:53:13 GMT by bjornagn
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Time to teach SWMBO to pull 11's with a stick shift..?? I'm thinking doughnuts to start with. I need to get this out on a wet road and see how entertaining it is going to be. Could turn out its like driving on snow. Canadians are used to that, but this will be RWD rather than the FWD experience.
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Did you have to do any work to adapt the speedometer output? I envy how quickly you did this btw! Speedo conversion stays the same as the AOD. There is an easy mod to adapt the Ford speedo cable to the Miata speedometer. Adding to the surreal pace of the swap: In order for this to happen, a simultaneous conversion of a friends Fox body mustang had to take place. Pulled the AOD out of my car, Pulled the T5 out of his car, rebuilt a C4 and a 351 to go back in his car, and then shoved the T5 in my car. It has been a blur.
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As it's a manual why the need for a neutral safety switch? Not strictly a need, but since the wife unit is new to the manual box game and this thing fires on the first crank, it seems like the safer option. Regardless, the actual wiring of the clutch pedal is trivial since it is just a Miata pedal switch and I have that and the connector. An unfortunate event happened where the harness for the neutral safety and the backup lights that went to the AOD were damaged (snagged on the T5) when I put the drivetrain back in; one wire for each circuit was broken. The ends of the broken wires reside in a spot that can not be accessed without removing the dash and the HVAC system. Going to do my best to avoid having to do that.
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It is a 5 speed! Drivetrain is in. clutch works. Shifter shifts. Need to sort the neutral safety wiring and it will require some contortins ( in a literal sense) to move that wire from where it is routed now to where it needs to be at the clutch pedal.
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Jun 30, 2019 11:43:06 GMT
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Very envious that you have a qualified shell dip facility at hand.
The dip process would be ideal for the Rx2 since you have pulled it all apart. I found that folded seams like door skins and pinch welds don't clean up so go ahead and remove the door-skins.
The re-dip service is interesting. Is it at a discount to the original trip through the bath? Reasons for offering that make sense are that ( unlike grumpy) some of us Mortals take a lllloooooooooooooooonnnnggggg time to get the resto done and car might have been questionably stored with the repair bits improperly covered in regular primer rather than epoxy. So yeah, that might make sense. The other reason would be because every weld creates an oxide surface where it is not shielded. So, if you did a long but-weld to graft a new quarter panel on, the backside of the weld seam would need to be cleaned and coated, not always possible due to access.
Would be interested in reading the technical data sheet for the red coating that this facility uses.
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Jun 28, 2019 22:58:53 GMT
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You and I have a different definition of these words. That said, I would be happy to have that as a starting point for some of my projects. On my MGB projects, IF they are suitable candidates, I like to do what I call a "rockerectomy" where I cut the sill off 1" from the top and slice a new heritage sill with a long but weld. This gives me a pretty good idea of what the rest of the sill innards look like If a suitable candidate, slice a new sill One long but weld later, the sill is sound, and the door sill pinch welds, the outer footwell spotwelds and most importantly the three spotwelds at the base of the A-pillar are preserved.
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Last Edit: Jun 28, 2019 22:59:49 GMT by bjornagn
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Jun 27, 2019 12:18:21 GMT
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Your tittle had me worried that something had gone amiss with the paint!
I learned a new word also! "Lurge"
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Jun 26, 2019 19:36:49 GMT
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Funny how yer man can’t get on the forum, I don’t think they’re that choosy who they let in. Even I made it! 😀 Amen!
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Jun 26, 2019 18:55:58 GMT
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If I can spot the sliver lining on this fiasco, it would be that the research done to figure out this problem has given me a much better idea of how an auto box works. Chances are this will get rebuilt again.
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Last Edit: Jun 26, 2019 18:59:07 GMT by bjornagn
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Jun 23, 2019 23:16:21 GMT
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That is my exact problem now. It has stopped being fun pretty much from the second the engine came to life. I will grunt my through thi$ but going into the s$hop is no longer $omething that I look forward to doing. But that is where the Beer fridge is! If you need a day with another set of hands to get things moving let me know. This is my (relatively) quiet season While you are most welcome to attend any of the work sessions, I think it just a matter of making some stuff happen. My friend just finished building a Fox body mustang. It has a T5 gearbox. H wants a C4 auto in the car now for whatever reason (drag race) so the plan is to finish the C4 rebuild, yank the engine out of the Molvo so it is ready to receive a T5 and then do two engine pulls and re-installs on a week-end so that all is well with both cars. Gonna be hectic to say the least.
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Jun 21, 2019 13:16:22 GMT
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Can we back up a sec to why the base-clear system was not the first choice?
I myself have a belief that classics of this era don't look quite right in base clear because it looks "too good for the times" if that makes sense. Too shiny or crisp or something that I cant quite put my finger on.
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Jun 19, 2019 13:08:51 GMT
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That should be fun! (when it's completed). That is my exact problem now. It has stopped being fun pretty much from the second the engine came to life. I will grunt my through thi$ but going into the s$hop is no longer $omething that I look forward to doing. But that is where the Beer fridge is!
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Jun 19, 2019 11:53:43 GMT
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In case of liquid spills, would the puzzle floor not just collect the stuff underneath?
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