gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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That's a serious volume of work you are doing there. On the welding - did you ever consider using Tig instead of Mig. It is slower to weld but it would save a lot of time on grinding down welds.
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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Dec 25, 2010 21:18:31 GMT
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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Dec 18, 2010 23:22:04 GMT
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Another vote here for a collet chuck - much more versatile. I have a smaller cnc mill and I use ER32 collets. They are very versatile - I have never taken the chuck out in the 2 years I've owned it. I do have a drill chuck as well but never bother with it - I just use the drill bits in the appropriate ER collet.
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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Dec 18, 2010 20:53:31 GMT
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Heard this loads of times before and it's getting a little monotonous seeing I've explained the situation several times before Rear of the shell was totally rotten and beyond repair. Massively bodged in past so nothing left even to use as pattern. NO repair panels now available. Company who made them closed down after being bought by rival so just genuine or NOS pattern that are getting VERY expensive. Buying another sound shell would simply means another 2 door being scrapped so Catch 22 and no advantage to the number of original 2 doors in original condition. I'm therefore left with a sound rolling chassis but no body. My car and my choice what I do with it. Might sound rude but I get fed up with people saying "save" have yet have no idea of costs involved nor difficulty sourcing them. If someone said soemthing constructive like "save - and I have all the bits you need at reasonable prices" then I'd listen but now get fed up of hearing just "save" There are far more 2 door Rangies out there than many other cars that doesn't stop people modifiying or even banger racing them Paul H BTW I did try selling but all I got was chancers trying to buy for scrap money so the "savers" had their chance to "put their money where there mouth is" and now it's my turn to do what I want with it I've just looked again at what I've wrote and appologise if anyone is offended as I might come across a bit too strongly. It's just I get frustrated by people suggesting something I cann't afford to do (around £5-7000 to properly restore with me doing all the work so no labour charges), be able to obtain parts anyway, aren't prepared to buy off me for sensible price and at the end of the day it's my vehicle to do with as I wish. I see loads of peoples modifications and alterations to otherwise mint looking really rare vehicles and all they get is comments like "awesome" yet I suggest changing the body on a common rotten Range Rover and I get the opposite Paul H Ha ha don't worry about offending me. Although perhaps keep in mind that if you ask for opinions on the web then be prepared to at least get one person that disagrees with you. I guess I'm not seeing your agrument as regards panels etc costing £7000. Half the steel panels on a Range Rover are flat or angled so a lot of them can be made yourself for the cost of sheet steel and some time. Sticking a Roller body on it is going to cost as much as it would to restore properly I'd say - but like you said it's you car so off you go and best of luck with it. If you are scrapping the body let me know if the rear side window slides & runners are sound and how much you want for them ;D
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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I've got a sound '72 Range Rover rolling chassis with rotten body sitting in the drive so I'm looking for inspiration for a rebody. This has caught my eye www.autoreflex.com/rolls-royce-le-4x4--ACT644.htmMaybe not such a silly idea as even our local scrap year (F W McGuinesses, Longport, Stoke-on-Trent) had a Silver Shadow in the general yard last year. Paul H Am I the only one going to say no don't do it? 2 door Range Rovers are getting too rare now. If you really feel the need just chop up a 4 door one Fix up the 2 door.
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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Dec 11, 2010 14:21:25 GMT
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If you search back through back issues of Practical Performance Mag they featured a Scimitar that had a tds engine fitted ( I have a feling teh ngine came from an Omega). Think it was about 2 years ago.
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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Cool. Thanks for posting - would like to see more of this stuff on here.
Only suggestion I would make is to drill the two locating holes first in the blank and then you can screw the blank to the wood - probably a bit safer than just relying on the tape to hold it on teh lathe.
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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fraid not - just a random one on p/bucket will have a look at their album for more..... Never sen pics of Bryn's mgb so don't know what he has done for arches to cover his mahoosive banded steelies. I've got an Idea for mine, depending on what wheels I go for and ho low it goes. not sure if its been done before so keeping it under wraps for now. Bryn had an MGB - given some of his other projects I've seen on here I'd really like to see that. Those arches in the album look like a home made version of teh Sebring arches. The rear arches are missing the MG swage line which is a big improvement over the standard sebring type. My own plans hinge around fitting MX5 front and rear suspension so I may not have to go too wide on arches. I was eyeing up the nice subtle curved arches on an Audi A6 thinking they might suit. I want to try and use steel arches or even aluminium rather than fibre glass.
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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Any more info on this please - is there a build thread somewhere? I like the arches - looking for wider arches for an MGB myself but I don't like the Sebring ones - they just don't look right I think. Those look almost like Mk1 Escort bubble arches?
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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RIP I doubt the arches on that purple Corsa were 'stick on', and the paint work looks amazing. Its a shame that magazines like max power are dying out. These are the magazines that get teenagers into cars imo. Guess theres just more tits and cars on the internet. Grant it the paint does look good BUT I'd say stick on arches are exactly what is on that Corsa. I flicked through Max Power a few times and it amazed me how some of the work in progress pictures showed that these guys probably had shares in Isopon for the amount of bodyfiller used. What I saw looked like bodging most of the time. I religously bought Max Power when it was first out but gave up on it once they went all tits and Barry boy years ago.
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Last Edit: Nov 13, 2010 9:51:51 GMT by gn3dr
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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Oct 30, 2010 17:49:02 GMT
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Well it is a Jag and not a Daimler. You can tell by the grille. Other than that there's not a lot more to see. Perhaps you could check the registration on one of the reg databases to see if is still in existence.
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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Seems to be standard practice in the US to drop a chevy engine in but that seems to be because they don't know how to fix the Jag engines and also Jag parts are expensive over there. My guess is the main stumbling block most guys modifying come up against is the fuel injection - they just don't know how to deal with it so they default to a carb.
Seems a waste to me though when there are much nicer Jag engines available rather than some old carb fed boat anchor ;D
Especially when the Jag engine will bolt straight in.
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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I've got an XJ coupe and an XJR waiting to donate it's engine to the coupe, for over a year now but am only going to get started on it in the next few months now that my shed is built. Anyway I've done some research and basically all you need to bolt the engine in place is the engine mounts from a 3.6 or 4.0 XJS. Gearbox I'm not so sure about but that's only one mount anyway once the engine is in so won't be that difficult. This is assuming you are talking about the AJ16 engine - straight six and not the XJR V8 from the later cars. Here's a car with the later engine installed - (not supercharged but the same block.) www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1224409924If you search Jag-Lovers.org there are more on there. Also not an XJ saloon but check out this fabulous XJR engined E-Type with lots of mods www.patsetypes.co.uk/Current.htm
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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Sept 18, 2010 20:59:13 GMT
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I was recently trying to bleed a diesel Merc and I used one of those vacum pumps (for sucking engine oil up through the dipstick). I just connected it to the fuel return line to the tank and it primed the whole system. If you have one of those it's worth trying.
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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Sept 16, 2010 22:59:02 GMT
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I guess I should mention that the budget is basically a pack of rich tea biscuits. I've scrapped stuff 20 times better than this and I wouldn't give a second thought to re-chassising an old Land Rover... (not sure why, probably because it's all part of my job) I'd say that Rover is well past it. Only worth restoring if there is sentimental value in it and then it would really have to be stripped back to the bar skeleton to do it properly. On another note... the MGB above is cool. I'm really liking that and all I can see different really is a set of 15"'s. It really works.
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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Sept 10, 2010 23:35:48 GMT
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Merc V12 in a Jag . You do know that a Jag V12 that would just bolt in?
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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Sept 5, 2010 20:01:10 GMT
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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Sept 3, 2010 23:34:40 GMT
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Swings and roundabouts with these 2 tbh, but I strongly believe that weight is the enemy of driving pleasure, and that for reason - K series! Agreed and this is even more relevant for the car in question I think. Planning to go the way with an MGB myself. Have a read of this site - kengine.dvapower.com/
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gn3dr
Part of things
Posts: 391
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Sept 1, 2010 22:45:48 GMT
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As far as I remember it does matter - I seem to remember it having an effect on how the ecu reads the teeth - leading or lagging edge...
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