g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Sept 16, 2015 9:26:25 GMT
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I bought a mk1 mx5 to do up and sell on for a small profit about 4 years ago. I still have it! Kinda tells you all you need to know. If you like driving, you will like the mx5. I liked driving mine so much I ended up selling my polo g40 (supercharged little bunndle of fun for those not in the know). My little mazda is coming up for 200k! starts without fail, still goes prettyy well too. There are so many variations of mx5s out there, you could write a book (I'm sure someone already has) My advice is buy the most rust free example you can find. There are a lot of doggy, and badly patched up mk1s out there now, so it is better to find one that hasn't had the sills 'repaired' as more often than not they have been badly patched up, and not really repaired! Mk2s are actually worse for rusting, as they rot out the front chassis legs and most people don't find out until the rot is terminal. Even the very latest versions still suffer with rust, which is a bit shocking really! Try and find a car with a limited slip diff, it makes the car! Avoid late mk1s with the 90bhp 1.6 and also watch out for early cars with short nose cranks, as these can fail. If you plan to turbo, buy the 1.8. If you like revvy na, buy the 1.6 115bhp mk1. Being a mk1 owner I am of course biased. The only reasons to buy a mk2 would be; 1: you don't have enough money to buy a good mk1 2: You found a really cheap mk2, they are still a good car, I just can't stand the froggy front lights and the characterless interior that wouldn't look out of place in an early noughties hyundai. 3: You bought a mk1, but want to swap the good mk2 bits like the torsen diff found on mk2 sport models and more powerful engines etc. Mazda got it right with the mk1 and have since been getting it less and less right, all are still good though. Mine is looking a bit rough at the mo (early uk 1.6 115bhp with mk2 torsen lsd) Great fun on the twisty back roads of north oxfordshire!
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Last Edit: Sept 16, 2015 9:44:16 GMT by g40jon
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Sept 14, 2015 9:02:00 GMT
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Looks interesting, would like to see more angles... Reminds me of a mini -tvr, from the side the front lights look a bit speed-12-y! Also...side pipes in that sill gap?! go - on! I read this guys build thread some time ago, I forget where, probably one of the many mx5 forums. But most of those panels were originally genuine TVR panels chopped down and made to fit. Great to see the man has managed to finish it, car looks great. Got to be one of the best proportioned mx5 bodykits ever made.
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Sept 12, 2015 19:41:26 GMT
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A sidestep for the regulations is to supply power through a lead plugged into an existing, socket, Ttfn Glenn which for welding, is likely to be quite insufficient. How is it any different to plugging in an extension lead? It is essentially doing the same thing. If anything an extension reel will be worse as it will no doubt be longer than having a semi permanent wire installed to the correct length. Add to that the amount of people who fail to un-reel their extension leads fully, thus making a massive induction coil! At least with a tailored wire, you can make it as short as possible and also you a thicker cable to minimise voltage drop and make sure all of the 13 amps a socket will suppply is avaiable. I am planning to do something along these lines for my shed and garage, but once funds allow, will be getting it wired into the main consumer unit
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Sept 9, 2015 21:09:33 GMT
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£100 to clear. absolutely not open to offers on this.
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Sept 1, 2015 21:38:11 GMT
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How well has the car been serviced? A few years back I had a 9n polo with the 3 pot 1.4 tdi (its derrived from the 4 cylinder 1.9 tdi, just munis a cylinder). I had a problem very similar to what you describe, i.e. the power suddenly drops off, almost feels like the turbo has stopped boosting. Well after replacing few bits, the car was no better. So I decided to get back to basics and give the car a service. Changed the oil, oil filter and fuel filter and the car was transformed. I can only assume the very grubby fuel filter was starving the car of fuel at higher engine speeds. Worth a try before spending big money or removing big parts from your engine!
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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That mr2 speedster is a beast! Saw it at the 750 meet at silverstone last weekend! Gotta love a car that spits flames for fun! Did you take any pics of the classic stocks? A mate of mine races in that series in a red nova
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Aug 31, 2015 23:54:32 GMT
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Something like these of interest? black racing minilite 3 piece split rims
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Aug 31, 2015 11:00:38 GMT
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open to sensible offers, just remember postage will be the best part of a tenner
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Last Edit: Sept 24, 2015 8:43:25 GMT by g40jon
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Aug 31, 2015 10:59:28 GMT
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ttt
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Gone I'm afraid. posted, no longer inn my possesion!
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Aug 27, 2015 18:31:57 GMT
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Sold to jon
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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I used a soft scotch pad to remove a few imperfections and over spray? But iv no idea I'm not a professional it's just how I did it. If it's wrong I can get it removed save people getting it wrong.? I think you done a good job, and yes primer is porous but it should be sanded or lightly keyed prior to paint as primer pigments stand up and paint won't adhere to it as well as if it were keyed. Only time primer doesn't need sanding is if you go wet on wet which is a whole new method. Interesting. In the past I've always avoided messing with the primer, unless it has dirt or trapped flies in it. Always been too worried about it soaking up water when wet flatting. One little tip: A good method for cleaning wheels in prep for repainting is to use brick cleaner. It is similar to wheel cleaner, only stronger. Not recommended for wheels where you want to keep the original finish, but if you are repainting, it isn't so important.
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Aug 21, 2015 20:07:37 GMT
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Nope I'm going to silverstone to watch some classic motor racing instead! I also have a set of tapered nuts which will fit these, not sure about radius seats, but will want 50p per nut. Have loads of m12x1.5 wheel bolts aswell, that I no longer need. 50p per bolt. They won't be pretty, but are perfectly serviceable.
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Last Edit: Aug 21, 2015 23:25:58 GMT by g40jon
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Nice work. Only thing I would question is sanding the primer. Primer is porous, i.e. it is desigined for paint to stick to it, so doesn't need sanding in my opinion.
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Having a clear out std side indicator :£1 collected or £5 posted vented headlight cover (pass side)fibreglass, will need the tabs tweeking to fit perfectly. Painted in su red, will need flatting and polishing, as I never got around to it: £35 posted or £30 collected. Wiper motor, didn't fit my early mx5, so pressume it will only fit later mk1s. slight damage to the plastic wiring connector, i.e. it has snapped off the plastic mount, but doesn't effect its performance. £5 collected or £10 posted new rear pads Never used, got another spare set of rear pads, don't really need two sets seeing as i've never had to change the rear pads in 65k of motoring! £5 collected, £10 posted all collections from hook norton oxon.
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Had these on one of my polos. Basically you screw them in (I used some fairly hardcore locktite) then hey presto you have studs rather than bolts. These were grayston ones from memory. fine for road use. No longer have a polo, so no use to me as they don't fit either of my bmws. £8 plus postage (I will need to check on this, but should be under a fiver)Collection from hook norton, oxon is more than welcome!
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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back up for sale due to wanting to free up some space.
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Aug 19, 2015 22:21:07 GMT
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Made by Depo, so oem quality, very good condition, no cracks or chips Should fit all saloon e36s, won't fit coupe,compact or estate. £40 posted or £30 collected from hook norton, oxon
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Last Edit: Aug 31, 2015 11:01:04 GMT by g40jon
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Jul 22, 2015 21:31:50 GMT
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You could always pull the carpets out and jetwash them. That will work very well and should dry pretty quick on a warm day. You could even remove the seat covers from the seats and do the same with them. most car seats are surprisingly easy to do this on, so no need to get the seat foam soaked.
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Jul 21, 2015 21:46:15 GMT
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I called into tesco and bought this lot to make a start. Pledge to clean all the dashboard. 2 tins of febreeze. A neutradol odour destroyer. A can of foam carpet cleaner. I've cleaned all the plastic with the pledge, opened the neutradol tub and put it in the door pocket, and blasted the car with febreeze a few times. The foam carpet cleaner is the type where you spray it on and leave it and it drys itself quickly. It's getting there, the really strong smell has gone, but it's still there. I think next I need a cleaner which I can put onto the seats and carpet and scrub it till its gone. so you asked for advice read all the posts ignored them all and did your own thing........................ Haha, I thought exactly the same thing!
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