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Feb 27, 2022 23:00:38 GMT
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Saw that video but it doesn't really show much about it, theres quite a few online which show the installation. I haven't seen any bad reports about them. but just battling myself do really need one or is it just the kudos of having one. But to be honest I'm just waiting for S1 , the manufacturers, to come back to me with a price including delivery and a rough idea how long it's going to take to get here. But no doubt I'll get one whatever. Did see a video I was quite amazed, it was more to do with the wiring up of one after its fitted and this blokes girlfriend did it all. What a lucky lad he is. The link ECU can be used to take the signal and then via CAN display it on the dash. I know the output is the same for Reverse and 1st but theres a work around splicing the reverse light wire, a relay, some resisters to get the 5v to the desired voltage and possibly a diode to stop back feed.
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Last Edit: Feb 28, 2022 11:48:45 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Feb 23, 2022 22:14:18 GMT
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In one of the posts a while back I was trying to source a way of having a direct input to the ecu of the gear position. This would enable the ECU to do a few more tricks and hopefully be more accurate. Plus it would be able to tell what gear I was in even with clutch pedal pressed. So so I looked into getting 6 hall effect sensors which cost about £5, that's for six. Then using ohms law and the divider rule for resistors, have each of the signal wires of each sensor go through a different resistor and then a branch off that with a signal wire to the ecu and another one that goes through a 1kohm resister to sensor ground. All fairly easy, the hard part would be locating it and getting it to work correctly and without the possibility to go wrong/move. So I looked to see if there was already a kit available come on you know I sort of off the shelf one size fits all. I did find something but for it to work you had to have another part. The other part would make my H pattern gearbox sort of into a sequential box. Now all it was, was an add on to the top of the gearbox where knocking it one way would change up, knock it the other way you change down. Let's face it every wants a sequential gearbox whether you need one or not. this is the S1 sequential shifter, not cheap but it can do the job that originally wanted and more, plus it's sequential. Now before yesterday I've never heard of this company, I ve seen Attempts at trying to do a similar sort of thing with solenoid's and actuators. But these were extremely complicated/expensive also required more ecus to control it and they were not that reliable either. Does anybody know anything about these sequential shifters or had any personal experience on them. If they're worth getting or just something that sounds/looks better than it actually works. I can't afford one But its something else to put down onto the ever growing list of nice to haves.
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Last Edit: Feb 23, 2022 22:25:22 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Feb 11, 2022 23:01:47 GMT
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Had one of these a few years ago, it was a normal one not the SE, not a bad car but did have his issues. If your keeping the engine, one of the weak point is the fact the alternator fits on the water-pump. Which is alloy and the threads can go. Also is a good idea if you can afford it to ditch the carbs and go fuel injection, these engine go so much better.
The original Lotus parts can be hard to find and expensive. Theres a list around with all the parts that came from other manufacturers. So the price was a hell of a lot lower and you could get it from a scrap yard, something like the rear lights I'm sure came from an SD1 Rover.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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I've been looking into the race dash, it's not for a race car but my daily driver. There is very limited information displayed on the dash, speed, revs and fuel , not even a coolant, it would an advantage to see what was going on. At present I don't have an aftermarket ecu but the car does have the obd 2 port. I have seen one or two of these race dashes that state that can read the all this and display all the relevant data. You mentioned that you got them at a price that you couldn't refuse, it may be a bit cheeky to ask but what sort of price are we talking, and which dealer/supplier was it. As I've seen them advertised from £800 the cheapest ,all the way to £950 for the same dash of what you've got. Like I said I'm interested and I'm sure that a fair few other people might be if we could get it for a decent price. I do realise this may have to be bulk buy, possibly a number of us committing to it. it may be worth it if its possible. Can't really say what dealer it's from , as all of them are quite secretive on profit margins. Also there is a RRP that dealers are supposed to keep to, so not to undercut everybody. But, yes it did cost less then the lowest price you've seen . Like I said there's always a deal to be had and if anybody would like one of these dashes for a bargain price, then let me know. My supplier can either say yes or no, but you're probably right in the fact that to get a price (lower than 800) this time it may be a case of ordering a few. PM me if anybody is interested that's all I can say.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Surely you could use the brake pedal switch input to the ecu for blipping on downshift? I'm soo tempted by a digital dash/instrument cluster, but can't afford one for some time at the moment anyway And there's soo much choice as to what there is available size wise now Always like to read and catch up on progress here, even without photos of stuff At present it’s the clutch switch that lets the ECU know I’m changing gear. Along with the maths block, which hopefully will try and determine if I’m going faster or slowing down. This is part of a logic block/statement, clutch, maths block and brake switch, when the clutch is pressed and this will then allow or not allow the clutch blip. But it only a best guess for the ECU. I was looking into a load of micro switch’s or proximity sensors to determine gear position, then with different resistance to a 5v signal to give a change in volts for the ECU to read. But that is complicated and would take a while to get correctly aligned, plus could/would not last that long. Ive seen what I need but there not cheap, even from The Peoples Republic. Linear potentiometer/position sensor, plus it needs to be preferably 5v or 12v. As for the dash I think I got the best one for me and the price was good. There are good discounts out there you just have to find a friendly supplier. They all want to make a profit but some want to keep you coming back and will make it too tempting to turn down. it would have been great to get one of the 10” ones but fitting would have been an issue. And yes there will be photos to follow when theres something to show.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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With a new Dash having the capability to transmit all the data by CAN this should help to free up some functions of ECU. I also have looked at the O2 sensor, which is an AEM X Series, also can transmit on CAN. So with all that in mind I've ordered the link can splitter, which allows O2 sensor to be a node off the CAN in between the ECU and dash. From what i understand the O2 is more accurate via CAN rather than 0-5v. This will free up another input of the ECU, along with the rev-counter output. One thing i sort of need is the ability to work out if I'm changing down a gear to get the ECU to Blip the throttle. I done some "math's Block" calculations inthe ECU to try to calculate if I'm changing down rather than up, but i will be a bit hit or miss. Has anyone managed to work out if it can be done on an "H" gearbox. That is without spending a small fortune. I thought about using a couple of liner position sensors to calculate the gear postion using X,Y axis, that put out a set voltage for each gear. However, i have yet to find any that arnt mega expensive.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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I didn’t need a new dash but I’ve been thinking about one for a while. And there’s a few that are stupidly price and no one can buy them unless you are a millionaire, or a race car driver, which is pretty much the same.
Then there’s other ones that are really nice, but you have to spend a fortune on the ECU that controls it.
Then there is the nice good-looking screens that work perfect with the ECU, Link/Aim, but they are fairly expensive.
Then the ones that are virtually identical from a different manufacture, Haltech, and a reasonable price.
Then there’s the ones that are a more of a generic – that work with pretty much anything, pro dash, but these although are quite reasonable and have a fully configure will dash to exactly how you would like it. But aren’t that professional looking. Also the same to take a while to boot up.
Finally there is the race dash is that connects via a can sniffer, real dash, and use a tablet as a screen. These are as expensive as the tablet you bye curse word the issue with these is they could take an age to boot up and if they did Crash then you’ve got no gauges whatsoever. So you’d have to pullover switch everything off back on again and wait for all to work.
I was quite lucky as I did like the Haltech ic-7 dash and managed to find one what I thought was a very good price. And it arrived the day after a pay for it which I thought was great. I did take a while to get it all working, mainly because they were at the help file, but as soon as the correct CAN ID was enter all was good.
Has anybody any experience on the Haltech dash’s working with the link G4X ECU’s.
Although I thought I got a good deal I had to go out and buy a new laptop today as my old one wouldn’t run the Haltech software. Still the money I saved buying this Dash compared to the link/aim Dash meant that the laptop was free and I also saved £250 as well. Every cloud and all that.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Well, good and bad news. Looks like the scissor lift will be here within the week. Good news that it will be here within the week, bad news that I’ve got to clear the garage out enough to find space for it. Also, I need to get my asre into gear and get the car back into a state where it will run and drive out of the garage, so I can get the ramp in on the floor ready to go. Hopefully, even get the triumph back on to the ramp. Realistically, I know it’s never happen, but hopefully this will be the kick up the acre I need to start the car restoration again.
I have to look through the page of this thread to see where I was up to, and the last things I did. hopefully, this will I give me some sort of pointer that I need to re-invigorate my thought process and actions, to get the motivation into a place, where things start to improve. Rather than the normal one step forward and countless steps back, which let’s face it is the normal. Possibly the reason that most of us are found that any sort of project, similar to this, takes forever. As a result motivation goes up and down dependent on loads of things, mainly………………….. well I’ve no idea really what keeps his motivated to carry on with this stuff.
Possibly it is that dream of, everything working correctly, nice dry sunny day, where you can actually enjoy the fruits of your years and years of labour and drive the car to your hearts content.
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Last Edit: Jan 5, 2022 2:33:37 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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The dump valve on mine works off of 3mm pipe. Works fine similar to yours but a Forge one, which might be the difference. You have to remember that a 3mm pipe will be less likely to collapse that an 8mm one of similar construction. As there is loads out there of single ply all out to 4 ply, which will alter the characteristics of the pipe. A rough rule of thumb the bigger diameter of the pipe the greater the effects of depression or pressure has an affect. As such the construction, i.e. ply wall thickness, has to be bigger or stronger. Yeah you’re right the a 8mm will flow better, but the effects of the pressure, compare to that of a 3 mm pipe, will be at 7 times greater. You also have to take into account pascal's law.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Dec 23, 2021 16:23:02 GMT
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Before you pull it apart again just check that the master cylinder is working correctly and that the pipes or hoses or trapped or Kinked . I tissues with mine, similar sort of set up but triple plate, sometimes it work and sometimes it wouldn’t and all the time it was just the slightest of slight weeps from one of the copper washes. I also tried possibly about five different clutch masters to get one to work how wanted the clutch to work, but eventually I had to settle for the standard one but it was new. Even though the old one did work it wasn’t work 100%.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Dec 22, 2021 21:22:22 GMT
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I did look at the mid rise portable lifts but they were a similar price. Plus I needed it to work on my Rover as well, and the smaller ones wouldnt even get the wheels off the floor. I was going to wait till I extended the garage but the company made an error with the price on the advert and honoured the lower price, just for the day, until they could remove the listing. Still the same price today. That was the same advertised price, but there was an old offer of 30% off displayed on another page that they hadn’t removed. It was gone within the hour.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Dec 19, 2021 14:34:57 GMT
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I did look at the mid rise portable lifts but they were a similar price. Plus I needed it to work on my Rover as well, and the smaller ones wouldnt even get the wheels off the floor. I was going to wait till I extended the garage but the company made an error with the price on the advert and honoured the lower price, just for the day, until they could remove the listing.
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Last Edit: Dec 19, 2021 14:36:10 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Dec 18, 2021 18:24:10 GMT
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Not touch the car for what seems like an age must be three months at least. Work has took his priority and has left me a bit knackered and not wanting to do anything when I got back. So I need something to get me back interest in the car. I’ve always wanted a ramp or a lift, but my garage floor isn’t The best, and I can’t really guarantee what the floor is like structure wise. So even though I did want a two post lift I don’t think it be safe even with an “H” frame. The only alternative was the scissor lift. I know there’s lots of different types out there makes high-rise, low and mid ones, I’ve not extend the garage yet and the roof Is only about 8 foot high at the moment. But I thought I’d ordered one if only to getting back interest in the car. has anyone got or used one of these scissor lifts. Seems as good as the rest that are for sale. I did want the more sturdy looking one with only pivot point but they were 150mm high when folded which ment it would just be in the way.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Nov 19, 2021 12:04:28 GMT
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When you said
“ Torque spec according to arp is 60ftlb in 3 even steps. Dug the tightening sequence out of the workshop manual (just standard middle outwards really).. bish bash bosh! Job done!”
You talking about the nuts and not the studs.
On the VVTI engine its one of the front studs/nut that fouls the cam gear. I went down to route of getting the head machined by afew mm to get the clearance didn’t want to alter the studs.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Sept 27, 2021 19:22:35 GMT
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Finish a few things up on Saturday I thought the car was about ready to go. However the weather had a different idea and decide to rain. I couldn’t be bothered to put the soft top up, and a knew driving in the rain will not be much fun especially as I wanted to test the brakes as well.
Sunday, was a normal Sunday in other words I did have a hangover. Driving the car takes quite a bit of concentration as the clutch is pretty much a on or off switch. And my head probably wouldn’t be in the best place to listen out for any issues and to map the car a bit. So I thought it’s a good idea not to take it out.
Today Monday, yeah weather wasn’t the best, a lot of rain but quite a few little open patches. I did hear there’s a bit of fuel shortage. As I didn’t quite know how much fuel I had in the tank I thought it be best to drive my normal car with a jerrycan to get some unleaded. Great, no fuel at all in North Devon. So that put an end to driving today but the weather has been pretty shttiy.
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Last Edit: Sept 27, 2021 19:28:44 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Sept 25, 2021 9:26:50 GMT
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It’s one of those things with ECU’s, that with the more basic ones, its will run a car with very little input and it will run alright. However, that is as good as it will get, just alright . However, if you get a expensive/complicated one there’s a fair chance it won’t even run the engine first time you use it. It will take a lot of effort to get the car to run even to the level of the cheaper more basically ECU.
Eventually though, with a lot of work, time, effort and possibly money (I do mean a lot) it will be running great. Then with more investment, a dyno session, it will be exceptional.
The modern factory fit ECU is good possibly better than the MS2, the only advantage would be that you have control. Which can be a good thing if the engine is modded, really the only option to take full advantage of what you’ve done.
it’s like a tv, a standard definition tv and 4K. On a SD tv everything is ok. On a 4K some stuff is unwatchable as the quality is so bad. But when you watch an UHD 4K film you see where all the money went.
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Last Edit: Sept 25, 2021 9:29:53 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Sept 24, 2021 21:06:45 GMT
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I'd thought they'd need to be in the same orientation on each shaft (so not 90 degree out) in order to cancel out phase vibrations... Yep same here I thought that to be that way round, but speaking to a few people in some case where it helps stop cyclic vibration. the vibrational you get in a geartrain where the same teeth touch the same teeth over over again and sort of start oscillating. anyhow it’s all back together now, The same way it came off. I had to modify the support bracket for the bearing as it wasn’t sitting square enough, which took a lot longer than I thought it would. I also got the rear wheel speed sensors fitted and wiring to the ECU, what a surprise they didn’t register. Then I realised that had this issue awhile back, went through this thread and found that The wires are weird not how you thought it would be. So just a swapping a few wires round in the connectors. And now the ECU can see both rear wheel speeds by the way, which is gonna be use for the traction control. just a thing to say, if you are doing the electrics on a car and using the super seal connectors there is a tool, a crimping tool, that is well worth getting. You can pay £200 for one or £17. These are designed for the Super seal connectors and will crimp correctly both parts in one go, prior to getting this tool I was using a normal crimping tool. Which you have to use it three or four times on each connector. And you weren’t guaranteed that you were going to get a good crimp. With this tool it’s so easy this one crimp and it’s perfect. Only wish I had this tool a year ago as it would have speeded things up so much, plus I wouldn’t have wasted a multitude of connectors which didn’t crimp properly. hindsights a wonderful thing.
update on the build so far, I’ve been sorting are they the loom for the ECU and pluging in various different bits . Pretty much now, I’ve used all the inputs, both digital and analogue, plus all of the outputs as well. I was looking at a way to add a few more by getting a Cambus node but I think I’m okay at the moment.
Once everything is up and running which hopefully will be in the next few days, possibly months, maybe weeks I have no idea, could be years. The car should, should, have cruise control, traction control, downshift blip, drive by wire throttle, idle control and a load more warning lights to tell me I’ve left things on.
All this though has added a few more wires and connectors, pretty much making my car look like it’s snakes fcuking wedding.
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Last Edit: Sept 24, 2021 21:16:06 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Sept 24, 2021 20:42:28 GMT
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Bother! Maybe I'm going to have to find someone who will map megasquirt. The 'you need to learn how each individual ECU works to tune it' thing is why I want to just pick one for all the aftermarket ECU projects I'm planning, and an MS2 Extra popped up affordably first. Trouble is, from what I gather tuners in the UK tend to be more focussed on Emeralds or other more established ECUs here. I did look into MS ECUs, quite good value for money. engine builders and tuners didn’t like them, as they came in kit form. pretty much ECU would be as good as a person built it and the person that fitted it. Now the MS2 didn’t have a features that I wanted, MS3 had just come out but had a lot of bugs. Too many to make it a viable solution to our needed. I’m not being a snob but for £80 more you can get a professional/better ECU. I did get the DTA ECU, it was the S80. Which seemed quite easy to program and had some decent features. I did find though that the customer support was, if I’m being brutally honest, pretty shtie . When you spoke to them for advice, their response was sound like, if you don’t know how it works then you shouldn’t have it. Also it couldn’t do what i wanted, vvti, to so it went. The Emerald ECU was brilliant, extremely easy to program. It’s almost like it was aimed at a normal person and not a computer expert or a tuning Guru. Customer support from Dave Walker Was spot-on and you couldn’t hope for more. In fact it was so good and honest, even though I had one of his ECUs, he said it wasn’t the right one for the job. And strangely enough he pointed me in the direction of the link ECU. The link ECU, can’t fault it, its a case you do get what you pay. With an engine which you just spent a fortune on, especially turbo one, you want to have an ECU you can 100% trust, because it doesn’t take much for a false reading/calculation to completely destroy the engine. When I was thinking of updating the ECU I did look at ECU master, as it seem to have a lot more to offer. with add-ons such as PDUs and dashes. But I decided to keep with link and go for them the most up-to-date one not just as I was use to it but the customer support is is brilliant. You can email them and you get a response within the day, and sometimes this means they’re going to research it themselves and come of the answers. These are the people who designed the software and made the ECU, so they know. it’s not a forum where you get advice from people who haven’t got a clue what they’re talking about.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Sept 18, 2021 16:56:13 GMT
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The other day when I was sorting the prop shaft out, I noticed that the rubber bush that supports the scent of the prop shaft had gone. I knew it was originally off of a Ford Granada 1985 2.8i gear X, so I need to find one. None of the local car parts places could help, However Burton power look like they had the right one.
Where had failed is quite obvious. Fitting the new one was relatively simple, just push it in make sure it sits correctly, then put the tabs down. When I reassemble the prop shaft it didn’t seem to line up correctly, so I looked at the photograph I took beforehand, the one in my post up above. I noticed that the two yolks where originally offset by 90°. I assembled it so both yolks parallel, which I thought was right.
I used a laser to see if what I believed was true, actually was, and as you can see the laser lines don’t line up with the 2 yolks. If you move it 1 tooth in the other direction the same happens again, it’s doesn’t line up. However, if you put it back to how it was originally, 90° out, then it all lines up.
My brain is a bit fried at the moment as I always thought the yolks had to be parallel to each other and not offset by 90°.
Which is the right way?
The prop shaft was professionally made by a prop shaft specialist. I didn’t check it when I got it, as I naturally assumed it was perfect. I’m sure they would not made a glaring mistake like that, when it’s their profession.
Are they right? Any advice anybody has on which is the correct way, please let me know, as it’s one of those brain frying things.
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Last Edit: Sept 18, 2021 16:58:06 GMT by Bullstarz
“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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Sept 15, 2021 10:21:47 GMT
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Yes, there is an art to programming/tuning an ecu. Getting it to run in the first place is a mission. Which is a case of entering all the correct parameters and settings. Not that easy, even going between two ECU’s from the same manufacture. Take mine, the same model just a newer version. However, the engine wouldn’t run when all the setting were correctly crossed over, as there new features that are already installed. For me it was the timing offset. It was a lot worse going from a Lumigition to a DTA then to Emerald and finally to Link.
Then the next part is getting to run OK. Takes a bit of time, even if you’re use to it. Things that takes ages to sort out or get right for me, a professional it would just be a click of a mouse with no need to see the car.
Admittedly there some good stuff to help get the car in a driveable half decent state. By the self-tune options or datalogging. Which help to make an educated guess at a way to improve things. Some ECU’s do continually store all the fuel corrections they make, so you can update the map rather than loosing the data once switched off.
Its annoying when you have done a decent long drive and the tuning software has altered the fuelling. Which has got the car running a whole lot better, but has requires at sometimes maintaining a constant throttle position while is does it magic. You have also acquired a mass of data in the data logger to go through, for when theres nothing on the TV, or it raining, too hot/cold to work on the car. Only to lose it all when the battery on the laptop dies or you inadvertently switch off the ignition.
However, there’s no substitute for getting a professional to sort it out by using a rolling road. Yes it can be satisfying to get the car running and driving. Quite rewarding when the fuelling is spot on and additional features work. But deep down you know that all the hours you spent doing it an engine tuner could do it in a few hours.
For me I sort of enjoy doing it and learning. Plus when I do hand it to someone it’s sort of there. All the features have been enabled and work, to some extent. Plus, I know that the parts work and are up to it, such as the fuel/cooling/electrics systems and circuits. It would be a waste of everyone’s time and money if you were to turn up and the car wasn’t in a state to be tuned.
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“It Doesn’t Feel Pity, Or Remorse, Or Fear, And It Absolutely Will Not Stop, Ever, Until You Are Dead!”
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