logicaluk
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May 19, 2022 20:32:00 GMT
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I think for now I will have to live with it as is, as is. A better job of porting would be sensible.
And a propper job of cam timing also sensible.
Bigger carbs I would prefer injection, refitting the original one to see if it is flawed, then build a better less compromised version.
The exhaust manifold will depend on the outcome of the above, if enough gains can be found then yes, but I not want to put money in to a manifold if not as it would want to turbo it. Andrew, thank you.
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logicaluk
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Catching up on yoddnz's Honda gold wing powered Imp, got me thinking.
The shape of the ports, contributing to the torque, has my light porting destroyed it, probably if there was any.
The combustion chamber looks to be a similar layout.
Valves are 33mm / 28mm for a 308cc cyl Vs the acclaims 36mm / 32mm for a 333cc cyl
Compression ratio 10.5:1 Vs 9.5:1, I went with 9.5 as from what I had read it was as high as one would want to go on normal unleaded. Should I have gone higher?
Just thinking out loud. Dan
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Last Edit: May 19, 2022 6:46:51 GMT by logicaluk
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logicaluk
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May 18, 2022 19:52:22 GMT
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Yes but that wasn't the point, when I took an acclaim engine apart it looked like it could take a lot more power. Would the 12v head fit? Or is it the cvv engine already? No it doesn't have the 12v head. IIRC the hot ticket is the acclaim head on the Mk1 civic block. Ive been looking for a 16v head with the same bore spacing as the EN4 engine, ala bmw bike head on a mini block, but ive not come across one yet Dan
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Last Edit: May 18, 2022 20:31:15 GMT by logicaluk
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logicaluk
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May 18, 2022 18:58:07 GMT
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Would a d16 swap not be the cheapest route to double the power? Someone has put one in a mk1 civic so must be possible? Yes but that wasn't the point, when I took an acclaim engine apart it looked like it could take a lot more power.
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logicaluk
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May 18, 2022 17:16:25 GMT
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I wasn't confident enough to go further and they didn't seem to need much. Inlet and exhaust gaskets 34mm ports are 32
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logicaluk
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May 18, 2022 10:21:18 GMT
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Unfortunately I can't remember the sizes, I port matched to the gaskets, then blended the transitions and cleaned up the casting marks then I think I eased the short side radius next to the valve. I can get to an un touched head when I get home and measure the ports. Dan
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logicaluk
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Here are some pics of my amateur head job exhaust port Inlet port Inlet manifold from head side inlet manifold from carb side exhaust manifold i don't know, if these are finished shots or in progress.
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Last Edit: May 18, 2022 6:14:49 GMT by logicaluk
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logicaluk
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May 17, 2022 19:18:46 GMT
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Twin spark would be next to impossible with this head.
So working on the cam Timing all measurements are taken from the crank pulley
Cam set at standard acclaim setting is approximately 13 Deg btdc = 6.5 Deg advanced. compression was 200 psi
Cam timed at 5 Deg btdc = 2.5deg advanced compression was 195 psi I think it felt more lively at 4000rpm
Then I split the difference between them and it sounds a lot happier, I'm not sure if it is actually any better to drive from the quick squirt around the block it had, I'll take it out tomorrow for a longer drive and see. Dan
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logicaluk
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May 16, 2022 20:22:19 GMT
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Stupid question time, by the sounds of it, I need to advance the cam to bring the power band down? thats the cam being moved forward ahead of the crank, right?
if so, tomorrow I'll try advancing the cam 1/2 a tooth which will be correct to the timing marks, not to where the standard cam pulley fits. Dan
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Last Edit: May 16, 2022 20:23:17 GMT by logicaluk
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logicaluk
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May 16, 2022 19:54:28 GMT
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Having spent about 9hrs behind the wheel driving around north Yorkshire today, I've had time to think. But first thanks for your input Has it been on a rolling road? The numbers don't actually matter but the shape of the curve can tell you more about where improvements are needed. Yes, but this plot was on the fuel injection, it feels very similar to the carbs for performance, I had put the flat output down to the throttle bodies I used. I'm certainly no expert but those standard cam timing figures sound terrible for performance. Do you know the timing figures for the new cam? only +12 deg duration = 240 deg +0.75mm lift You will struggle to get 60-65BHP per litre from that motor. If you want more power you need to get more air in the engine - 36mm inlet valves will scupper anything you try and do. Changing cam may well make it slower as it could move the peak to an area where air cannot flow - so you lose all the low end torque and do not gain any top end as it cannot breathe there. ETA Go faster rule #1 - Go as big as you can fit and then tune it. If you want to go as fast as a 2.0L - buy a 2.0L Darkspeed as usual you got me thinking, I had completely forgotten, theirs a guy who's actually done something with this engine put it in a mk1 civic, so I contacted him more on that later. Cam timing ive not tryed playing with that yet. Go faster rule #1 I didnt want to do an engine swap, I just wanted to squeeze a bit more out of this lump as i felt it was agood basis to work from. As Stealthstylz says id get it on a rolling road, then you can at least see the curve etc. what gearing have you got? & wheel, tyre size? going to a smaller rolling radius tyre will improve acceleration but at the detriment of top end speed. Would you consider a turbo concoction? The D16 Engine is still a long stroke Ø75x90mm might be better with a Rover K series? if you want to keep it in the family as it were. gear ratios 1 2.916:1 2 1.764:1 3 1.181:1 4 0.846:1 5 0.714:1 diff 4.642:1 I did have 165/50/15s on it, and it did feel quicker, but at the moment it's got 195/45/16s Avon built a turbo version of the acclaim, using the standard engine and carbs (possibly with the main jets removed) paired to a turbo technics, Garrett T3 running 6psi and putting out 105bhp @ 5500 rpm and 123lbft @ 3500rpm I have a one from a Subaru Impreza in the workshop, apparently they go well on 1300cc minis The Honda B or D engines would be the correct family. So I contacted Jay about his acclaim engined civic, unfortunately he sold it but did give me some information, his had Goldwing pistons, taking it to 1372cc and a Newman cam (which he said sounds the same spec as mine) with dual Mikuni carbs 4-2-1 exhaust manifold and made 98bhp he didn't know what the compression ratio was but said when compression tested it made 240psi which was pretty much the same as it did on the original cam. I know with std pistons and the rest of my setup it's not going to be 98bhp, but 80 would be good. When I did the compression on frank after the Newman cam was fitted the first time the compression it had dropped from 220psi to 170psi so if I re-time it to make more compression that might show some gains, a direction to move in. Dan
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Last Edit: May 16, 2022 20:00:33 GMT by logicaluk
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logicaluk
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May 15, 2022 20:14:20 GMT
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If I were to say I hadn't spent some time last night looking at eBay listings for Honda D16 engines, I would be lying, contemplating the one thing I really don't want to do. So one last chance, before I buy an engine and have to reengineer the front of Frank. Here are the specs this engine should be capable of producing more power, If anyone has any thoughts, thinks I'm missing something please take the time to say so. It feels flat, doesn't pick up speed quick enough, there's no charge if you know what I mean. Approx 815kg with full tank engine 1335cc approx 9.5:1 compression 8 valve hemi head 72mm bore, 82mm stroke engine turns anti-clockwise inlet valve 36mm 3 angle valve seats exhaust valve 32mm 3 angle valve seats std cam specs inlet opens 10 deg ATDC closes 30 deg ABDC exhaust opens 40 deg ATDC closes 10 deg BTDC Newman uprated cam "+12 deg duration = 240 deg +0.75mm lift" (= 9mm total lift, I think I've measured this) lightened flywheel -1.3kg Exhaust manifold is a std cast iron, 4 into 1 ported out to 2" outlet in to a 2" pipe that runs all the way to the back of the car. Carbs are 2 x 34mm (should be good for about 100bhp) Kehines and appear to be running slightly rich according to the AFR gauge Ignition timing tables, no noticeable difference between tables. Please help, I'm at my wits end, all it seems to do is make lots of noise and not go very quickly. Dan
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Last Edit: May 15, 2022 20:29:55 GMT by logicaluk
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logicaluk
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May 14, 2022 19:14:18 GMT
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What a glorious day to be outside working on my car. The plan for today was, find and fix the water leak, refit the Newman reground camshaft, remove the rear ARB as it's way too stiff, and it's causing the body to flex. The MoT man said the water leak appeared to be coming from the thermostat housing to heater valve pipe, a quick look with the air filter box off, it was obvious it was coming from the thermostat outlet, the cause was the seal that goes around the stat which fell apart when prodded, rumour has it that a Rover K series one fits (on left), It doesn't, euro car parts lists a stat for the Acclaim, but that's a Rover K series one too and doesn't fit either, I had hoped it would as the Pic shows 2 seals in the kit, but only one was in the box, Nill Point. Turns out what you need is a stat from any Honda B,D or L engine like this Which Barry The Acclaim Guru had in stock, Top Chap, and as he lives 15 mins away, a brew, natter and a poke about in the workshop quickly ensued. When I had Newman regrind the cam, David Newman said to set the cam up the same as a standard cam, It has an extra 12 degrees of duration and .75mm extra lift. I've done a few timing belt changes on Acclaims, and they are all 1/2 a tooth out from where the book says to set them up, so there's a 50/50 chance of getting it wrong, if it doesn't sound right when revved just pop the belt off and try the other. I have an adjustable timing wheel, but set it up with the woodruff key in the normal slot for now. The ARB came out fairly easily, by dropping the back of the fuel tank and slowly working it passed the hand brake cable round the trailing arm and rear shock then out. Then I took Frank out for a quick drive, luckily the gearbox seems to have survived the lack of oil, handling has changed slightly but not by much just a slight roll on cornering. But there's no shove in the back when accelerating, to be honest I'm really disappointed, it just doesn't pick up speed like I was expecting. I'm of to sulk. Dan
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Last Edit: May 14, 2022 19:20:07 GMT by logicaluk
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logicaluk
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May 11, 2022 19:55:36 GMT
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Adrian Flux offered to insure frank for £134 all mods declared, so I nibbled their arm off at the shoulder, MoT booked for today and passed with 2 advisories one for the cam cover oil leak which May have still been weeping, and a coolant leak (which I'm hoping is just the pipe clip under the fanimold). What really impress me was the MoT station fitting a straight cut gearbox, unfortunately it turned out when I did the clutch 2 years ago I forgot to put oil back in it, I hope the gearboxes are as tough as they say they are, I only did just under 20 miles so fingers crossed. Dan
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logicaluk
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It looks to me like a thread adaptor, if you take it to a hydraulic hose shop they should be able to make a complete hose up for you.
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logicaluk
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Hi there is a lot of 3 triumph door caps on eBay, in Ryde IoW I want to buy, but the seller doesn't want to post them, can anyone pick them up and forward them on to me? Dan
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Last Edit: May 9, 2022 22:15:10 GMT by logicaluk
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logicaluk
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So some paint happened in the engine bay, but photos didn't. Carbs happened too, I'm sure I took a pic, but my phone got jealous and must have hidden it. Then I found the 40 year old wire hose clip that was supposed to be keeping the coolant in the heater matrix manifold just decided now was exactly the right moment to relax and let it all run out, so that was replaced, a very annoying oil leak was tracked down to the cam cover seal, which was replaced when I rebuilt the engine and had shrunk. it was duly replaced with a 40 year old item which didn't leak The lights were checked, and an indicator repeater lamp needed its contacts cleaning and the 3rd break light was reattached. Barry popped over for a steak dinner and some light brake bleeding. If anyone was curious as to what an acclaim with BC Racing suspension looks like on full droop, It looks a lot like normal ride height. If I can find some sensibly priced insurance, Frank will be off to the MoT station and ill be buying him his last VED. Wow, I'd forgotten how much I love this car
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Last Edit: May 8, 2022 21:10:29 GMT by logicaluk
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logicaluk
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I changed the dual pump fluid, what came out looked like ATF but I used legit Honda DPS-F Did you change the fluid then drive it then change it again? That's what the CRV manual recommends.
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Last Edit: Apr 1, 2022 14:12:14 GMT by logicaluk
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logicaluk
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Mar 29, 2022 12:54:46 GMT
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I was walking past a friends garage and spotted this, I almost forgotten I parked that there a few years ago. So I did the decent thing and strapped a battery on and it said click click brooooomm The plan such as it was, was to remove the fuel injection and return it to carbs temporarily as besides making no more power than before it was a bit thirsty, So I did this. But also found the battery had disagreed with the paint. It's back running on the mechanical fuel pump and 39 year old fuel hose, which by the look of it appears to be in much better shape than the ECP injection hose date stamped 2007 which the outer had cracked down to the re-enforcement. I also need to make up an small loom so I can plug the map sensor in. But that as they say is a job for another day. I did give Frank a quick wash before tucking him back up in his cozy garage. Dan
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logicaluk
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I'm getting there, the next purchase is a floorplan from chic doig at £140, I'm saving up for it, I've managed to fill my workshop with car parts so there's no room in there, but I'm working my way through it. But there is hope for my mojo, I've done the clutch on my son's r56 mini cooper, I've even pulled Frank out of storage for the first time in 4 years.
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logicaluk
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Thanks for that, the only thing I've done with its to buried it in the garage and pile some carp on top, I will get back to it but it's going to be a while. Dan
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