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Feb 14, 2011 19:39:06 GMT
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This is a rubbish post I apologise. My ca18det capri has mysteriously flattened a battery within 3 days. The battery was full (I charged it on Friday night) and is only a couple of years old. I've not driven the car properly and had it running for an accumulated half hour. It was so bloody long ago that I did the conversion that I can't remember in what way the Nissan alternator is connected to the ford battery I don't remember having a charging problem for the couple of weeks I drove it when I first completed the Nissan conversion. How can I tell if the battery is receiving charge from the alternator? I'm hoping it's the cold weather that has killed the battery (even though it's only a few years old it hasn't been used often - it was connected up but not touched right through the freezing spell we had) I'm trying to convice myself that I should insure it and that way I can see if t passes an MoT then I can actually sort some of the annoying things when it's on the road. However, if there is a major problem with the way I've wired the bloody thing it'd be a waste of money insuring it at the moment...
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,789
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Feb 14, 2011 20:04:53 GMT
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There should only be 3 connections.
B+ is battery pos. Usually to main starter pos terminal# D+ which is warning lamp. Usually a 6.4mm spade connection W which is a stator tap for running an electronic tacho
*may be variations on markings for J electrics but most car alternators follow this wiring
If you're sure the connections are correct, and there's nothing left switched on, then it's probably the diode pack failed, allowing the battery to drain back through the alternator
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Last Edit: Feb 14, 2011 20:06:13 GMT by MrSpeedy
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Feb 14, 2011 20:16:11 GMT
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I'm just swapping in a Subaru alternator and I have big stud and eyelet for battery +, 'L' spade for the dash light and 'S' spade for sense which also goes to the battery +.
My old one had a couple more terminals which I'm not using any more. Here's what I found with Google: 'S' terminal: Senses battery voltage 'IG' terminal: Ignition switch signal turns regulator ON 'L' terminal: Grounds warning lamp 'B' terminal: Alternator output terminal 'F' terminal: Regulator Full-Field bypass
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Feb 14, 2011 20:41:19 GMT
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One thing that surprisingly few people know, is that unless the warning light is connected up properly, the alternator won't usually charge.
It's pretty simple to see if the battery is being charged - Just check the voltage across it. You should see 12v on a charged battery, and this should rise to 13.5 or so when the engine is running. Anything between 13.2 and 14.5 is fine.
If the battery has been properly flattened more than once or twice, it's probably shafted anyway - Car batteries aren't designed to be "deep cycled" and flattening them to the level where they won't turn the sidelights on really damages them.
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Feb 14, 2011 21:08:33 GMT
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Get the car started and check the battery voltage with a multi meter. If the voltage increases to 13-14 volts then its charging ! The battery could well be knackered with being left flat in the extreme cold and just not holding charge. Take it to a local motor factor and they'll test the battery for free.
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1965 Imp
1982 Golf GTi
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Feb 14, 2011 22:37:44 GMT
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You must know a bit about lectrix if you installed that engine. but.. fit a testlight in the battery cable , if its illuminated, something is draining, disconnect things until it goes out, could even be the alternator itself.
From memory the two spade terminals on S13 alternator are lamp and battery. (Strange setup having a main output to the battery and another cable also going to the battery but I'm sure they know what they are doing)
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75 Range Rover 2 door 82 Range Rover 4 door 84 Range Rover 4 door 78 Datsun 120Y 2 door 78 Datsun 620 Pickup 81 Datsun Urvan E23 86 Datsun Vanette van 98 Electric Citroen Berlingo 00 Electric Peugeot Partner 02 Electric Citroen Berlingo 04 Berlingo Multispace petrol 07 Land Rover 130 15 Nissan E-NV200 15 Fiat Ducato
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Cool I'll set about testing it before I start unwrapping looms again. I forced myself to understand everything I've done to it along the way out of necessity - I hate maybe but can just about do it I I HAVE to.. Same with electrics but I have a mental block like I did when I was a kid with maths- "don't wanna do electrics I HATE them" etc... So I never quite trust my instincts when it comes to them! I'm going to try and retrace the wiring from alternator back and try a multimeter on battery when it's running. If the battery is goosed and the alternator is connected to it - will the multi meter still show that it's receiving charge? Or could it give back some confusing readings?
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dungbug
Posted a lot
'Ooligan!
Posts: 2,852
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Feb 15, 2011 10:32:28 GMT
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Get the car started and check the battery voltage with a multi meter. If the voltage increases to 13-14 volts then its charging ! The battery could well be knackered with being left flat in the extreme cold and just not holding charge. Take it to a local motor factor and they'll test the battery for free. /\WHS/\ If the battery has been flattened for some time it won't hold much charge,you've charged it up but it hasn't taken a full charge due to being fugged (possibly).
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Past: 13 VW Beetles from 1967 - 1974 Bay Window Campers (1973 & 1974) Mini's (1992 Cooper lookalike & 1984 '25 Anniversary) MK2 Polo Coupe S (1984 & 1986) MK2 Polo Breadvan (1981 & 1984) MK4 Escort (1989) MK2 Granada Based Hearse (seriously) Fiat Uno 60S (1986) Punto 60S (1998) Cinq (1997) 1998 Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat 2003 Ford KA
Current: 2004 Ford Focus (barely alive)
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,789
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Feb 15, 2011 12:15:46 GMT
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Cool I'll set about testing it before I start unwrapping looms again. I forced myself to understand everything I've done to it along the way out of necessity - I hate maybe but can just about do it I I HAVE to.. Same with electrics but I have a mental block like I did when I was a kid with maths- "don't wanna do electrics I HATE them" etc... So I never quite trust my instincts when it comes to them! I'm going to try and retrace the wiring from alternator back and try a multimeter on battery when it's running. If the battery is goosed and the alternator is connected to it - will the multi meter still show that it's receiving charge? Or could it give back some confusing readings? If the alternator is working correctly it should still show around 13.8-14.2 volts weather the battery is charging or not. Any charge given/accepted will show in a current reading (Amps) and you'll need a clip on induction meter or a large capacity in inline meter to show that
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Feb 15, 2011 12:37:25 GMT
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cheers guys fingers crossed its the battery eh?
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Feb 16, 2011 21:16:29 GMT
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Ok, just tested it and the battery is at about 12v and stays the same when the motor is running... Four out that the 75amp ALT fuse has blown so I'm going to source a replacement and some spares - What could have caused a 75amp alternator fuse to blow? A short somewhere?
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Ok, just tested it and the battery is at about 12v and stays the same when the motor is running... Four out that the 75amp ALT fuse has blown so I'm going to source a replacement and some spares - What could have caused a 75amp alternator fuse to blow? A short somewhere? It could only be that I think as a regular sized alternator wouldn't be man enough to blow a fuse that size. And it probably can only be the fat cable running to the B terminal. If the fuse is the type with a m5 lug either end, a search for midi fuse on Ebay will find them. Just got my freshly machined v-pulley today and my cabling and fuses should be turning up tomorrow. I do expect to be tearing my hair out before the weekend's out.
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Connecting the battery back to front or jump leads back to front will pop an alternator fuse in nanoseconds. (just a thought) (my sister had a volvo 440 which she did that to) else probably only an internal alternator short or wiring short between alternator and fuse.
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75 Range Rover 2 door 82 Range Rover 4 door 84 Range Rover 4 door 78 Datsun 120Y 2 door 78 Datsun 620 Pickup 81 Datsun Urvan E23 86 Datsun Vanette van 98 Electric Citroen Berlingo 00 Electric Peugeot Partner 02 Electric Citroen Berlingo 04 Berlingo Multispace petrol 07 Land Rover 130 15 Nissan E-NV200 15 Fiat Ducato
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meltedcheese
Part of things
Please, Don't Sqeeze the Volvo!
Posts: 403
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Can't wait to see the beast back on the road. Slowly but surely eh! ;D
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Thanks fellas, on with the search for a fuse then - its not that sort it looks like this: I may have to order some from Nissan... I'm hoping Ive been a dingbat because Ive relocated the battery to the boot since I last use the car properly so I could fit all the intercooler pipework more neatly in the bay. I was very methodical but I'm just hoping that Ive done something daft in the process. Meltedcheese, you knows it
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Feb 17, 2011 10:33:46 GMT
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found these: cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250366082230They're called 'slow blow - pal type' fuses, never heard of them? Is that essentially what I'm looking for? They're only £3 each and looking about the net it seems Nissan charge about £15 for them and as I may need a few it could rack up!
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meltedcheese
Part of things
Please, Don't Sqeeze the Volvo!
Posts: 403
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Feb 17, 2011 11:59:56 GMT
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Look about right to me Dave, may be worth asking him the question?! As long as the body is the same and there 75amp get it ordered!
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