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Reading so much conflicting info on this. My CA18DET is completely rebuilt and will soon be running properly - (I'm not gonna be able to drive it soon as its ready but thats another story) Ive read all sorts on running it in properly - I've also modified it a fair whack and it'll be running close to 300bhp. I thought the best way would be to keep off boost for 1000 miles - no loading the engine (like too high a gear going up a hill for example) no revving above about 3500rpm? change oil at 500 miles and carry on the gentle driving with no constant revs (cruising at 3k etc...) How far off the mark is this? Id rather advice from people who've actually done it as all of these threads on other forums become very speculative and its adding to my confusion ten fold. I've also read that if you treat it gently then it won't like being revved when its run in and be down on power so some people have said to use the 'thrash the fook out of it' running in period???!!! I don't really want to gamble on this one ;D Its cost me a fortune in blood sweat tears and money to rebuild it and therefore don't want to do this wrong! Ive never actually had a fully rebuilt engine before so in terms of actual experience of running in a fresh, tuned engine - I have none! Thanks gents Oh and its not MOT'd so its first drive will be to a test station... I'm guessing not the best situation for a rebuilt motor?
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I followed the advice of Puma Racing: www.pumaracing.co.uk/runin.htmIf you've replaced the camshaft, there's more information on running that in here: www.pumaracing.co.uk/cam1.htmYou want to bed the rings in well (which needs high cylinder pressures), but without letting friction overheat the bearings (so don't use much power for long), so you want to vary the load and revs as much as possible. Since the CA18DET has something of a reputation for knocking out it's big end bearings it's probably worth treating it gently for a little longer than might otherwse be the case - but do be sure to follow the advice on bedding in the rings. If you don't do it at the start, the bores will be glazed before the rings are bedded in, and they'll never seal properly. As long as the MOT station isn't a motorway journey away it'll be fine.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,937
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Running in advice!bstardchild
@bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member 71
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Is it running a std (tweaked map)
All your points seem on the money but I'd worry about the fueling being spot on - too much fuel can be bad
I don't really believe in the stories about running in a fixed rpms mean it won't rev properly when it's run in
The problem you face is Shells and bearings need running in with as little load as possible and rings it's the reverse as they need load to cut in
So I've always used a 1000 mile process and over that mileage built up the revs and loading as the miles gathered untill at the end of the process I was using the full throttle loading and rpm range
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I can't give you any advice on whats the best to do.All i will say is that my dad had his old A series engine rebuilt and treated it with kid gloves when running it in.The engine used loads of oil and smoked like it was on fire.Was not a cheap rebuild or used cheap parts/places.Over time it has got better and not useing as much oil or making as much smoke.
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Hmmmm, the puma racing advice... Now you're ready to take the car out on the road and bed the piston rings in. To do this requires several brief applications of full throttle in a high gear to generate high cylinder pressures and force the rings against the bore walls. Put the car into 4th or 5th at 1500 to 2000 rpm and apply full throttle for about 10 seconds. Coast along for 30 seconds to dissipate any heat generated and repeat. Do this ten times. It should take about 10 minutes and maybe 5 miles if you don't have too many other cars up your chuff trying to get past.
Thats the exact opposite of what I was recently told to do! I'm still unsure as to the 'best' method. The camshafts etc.. haven't been replaced (this was done in the past) however I have replaced all of the valve stem seals. The ECU is chipped to 'stage 2' and designed to run on high octane (V-power etc..) fuel - I've uprated the fuel pump etc.. to cope with the higher amount of fuel needed - everything should work together well and there shouldnt be any fueling issues as long as everything is functioning properly that is!
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Take it easy. The 'bed it in by ragging it' method just doesn't stack up in my mind and it has killed one of my motors.
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Cool I think that's the way I'll do it mate. One thing I've wondered though - is it ok to leave it idling? For example when I sort the fan issue I'll be able to fire it up and check for any problems - will it be ok to leave it idling for a while (assuming the temp etc is all ok) I was thinking when I'm checking for issues it'll be idling and I'll be slowly raising the revs and maybe blipping the throttle and letting it idle again but always below 3500rpms. Do you think leaving it to idle like this with the occasional revs will be ok on a fresh build?
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If its got a new cam/followers in it you don't want to let it rev under 3k for the first 20mins or so.
Al
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Do you have some sort of oil pressure gauge, not just a switch/light but an analogue gauge?
I think even if it's a temporary addition this would be valuable to keep an eye on during running in. I also think they're valuable day to day as they show when the engine oil is properly warm.
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stwat
Part of things
Posts: 546
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Don't let the engine labour at all and make sure you run the engine through the rev range regularly and don't set a low rev limit. Make sure you use the whole rev range(without thrashing the engine) and don't simply plog along at low speeds constantly.
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1992 190E 1.8 manual
1989 300SE Low mileage LuxoBarge
1988 190e 2.6. 1988 190 2.3-16 Cosworth
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30psi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,024
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I've run in 2 CA18's.
The first time I did it, I did the 1,000 mile / 3,000rpm affair and took it very lightly. Every 100 miles or so I briefly stretched it up higher another 1,000 rpm. This engine was great with perfectly bedded in rings. I had a mechanical failure on a gudgeon pin circlip which was because the builder didn't use dual clips.
The 2nd one I did pretty much the same but had fueling issues (both lean and rich). The bores ended up a bit glazed.
The next one I'm going to do will be in a spritely fashion, so without labouring the engine I will load it up a bit. I'll keep it to 3 or 4,000rpm for the first 50 miles and slowly stetch it up to 7-8,000 rpm in the next 100 or so miles. I'll probably do 2 oil changes in that time.
Mark of SXOC does an oil analysis service, which would be useful as if the oil is contaminated this will indicate the likely cause.
As for the CA being weak on big ends, just make sure its got the right oil level in it. The dipstick is guff so be careful when taking readings.
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1962 Ford Thunderbird 6.4L
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS CA18DET
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS SR20DE
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Awattam - i have an oil pressue and oil temperature guage as the standard CA is Governed by an idiot light - it flickered when i was driving it and the next day on startup the bearings had failed. Turned out the pump failed which dropped the pressure killing the bearings, the little led merely flickered to tell me "dude, your engine is f cked" that was certainly a sickening sight! I'm not taking any chances this time so I want to keep an eye on every aspect - I have the standard water temp guard along with an auxiliary more accurate one and oil temp and pressure all plumper in.
Thanks, I'll take your advice 30psi and run mine in the way you ran your first one in - is it ok to have it idling with a few light blips of the throttle whilst I fault check it? I'll be able to have some sneaky test runs up and down the cul-de-sac but that's it till its mot'd. I'm going to disconnect the fuel pump and spin the engine over for 5 secs before instant it again to bump the pressure up
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30psi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,024
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I'd hold it up at 2k for 5 minutes, if you're bedding in a new cam this needs to be done properly - up at 2.5-3k for 20 mins, whilst blipping the throttle gently. Then drive round the block a few times and then come home for a look.
The only thing regarding the 1000 miles is that it will take quite some time. I was out driving the car each night after work trying to do at least 100 miles a night.
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1962 Ford Thunderbird 6.4L
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS CA18DET
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS SR20DE
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It's not got a new cams dude just the stem seals at the top - how would you recommend treating the startup/idle and running around checking for leaks etc. like a madman? Ok to be sat idling? Don't worry, when it's mot'd I won't be out the drivers seat! Finance allowing I'll be puttin loads of miles on it as soon as I can.
To sum up the basic points to follow:
1.No over 3000rpm except roughly every 100 miles go 4000rpm briefly. 2.No loading the engine (too high a gear, etc) 3.No constant rpms (cruising along for example shift up or down every 30 secs or so?)
Where does this leave me for pre Mot testing and checking? Obviously idling is a constant rpm - be ok to leave idling a while to check it doesn't overheat or leak etc... Slowly raise the revs up to the magic 3000rpm with occasional throttle blips? Thanks for the advice mate
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30psi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,024
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Just look around and underneath every now and then. Fuel leaks will be easy to spot before you start the engine. Don't worry too much about being accurate with the amount of miles or the rpm, just take it easy. In fact just drive it like a Mum would drive a Mondeo. You'll be ok idling it at the MOT station, its the first start when it shouldn't be idled, but this is more relevant for new cams. If I were you I'd book it in at the MOT in the afternoon so you give yourself a few hours and mileage to get there
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1962 Ford Thunderbird 6.4L
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS CA18DET
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS SR20DE
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Thanks mate - good idea on the afternoon Mot thanks again for the advice - do you have any advice on reading the useless cuboid dipstick?!
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30psi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,024
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Yeah the dipstick is cack, I think thats the main reason why bigends go on the old CA.
If you do an oil check in the morning or after its been standing some time it seems a lot more reliable
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1962 Ford Thunderbird 6.4L
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS CA18DET
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS SR20DE
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Cheers matey
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interesting shot there i hope that dolly the engine is sitting on was properly tethered or would make for an interesting ride!
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I like to think it's not tethered and is infact his daily ;D
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