chin
Part of things
Posts: 96
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Apr 10, 2012 16:56:29 GMT
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Thanks for the comments guys! So works been mental so cars been getting neglected :-(
Have managed to get the gearbox mounted and the steering fits but I've had to add some spacers on the drivers side engine mount. Need to extend the tie rods on the steering as there's not that much thread connecting on the tie rod ends. I'm hoping to run the brake and clutch lines this weekend and if I get some of the last bits for the radiator pipes I might be able to fire her up and "drive"!
Also looking at building a air box above the passenger side of the engine bay with a NACA style air feed in the bonnet.
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goosah
Part of things
Posts: 21
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Apr 10, 2012 21:36:44 GMT
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Love the car! The look with the wheels and arches is exactly what I wanted to do (I never liked the rear arches on the sebring kit), along with a VG30DE powerplant, but I was forced to sell my collection of stuff before it could come to fruition.
I must implore you to reconsider using blocks. The words v8, track car, and blocks just do not go together. Get the springs re-arched or be prepared to make a serious link system and panhard to keep it under control. At which point I would start to consider getting rid of the leaves all together and going coil sprung.
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Last Edit: Apr 10, 2012 21:37:45 GMT by goosah
1982 Corolla SR5 Sport Coupe (TE72) 1970 Corolla Sprinter (KE17) 1969 Corolla 2dr (KE10)
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chin
Part of things
Posts: 96
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Apr 15, 2012 22:07:41 GMT
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Defiantly looking at improving the rear suspension. Still looking at options but concentrating on getting it running, driving and solid at the moment. I'm close now. Got a couple of bits welding left now and have removed all the under seal and seam sealed the bottom ready for shoots.
Hopefully finish the welding and shoots it next weekend ready for running brake and clutch lines!!
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sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,392
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Apr 18, 2012 17:32:08 GMT
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Just sent you an e-mail Chin
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Current 1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype 2004 TVR T350C 2017 BMW 340i
Previous BMW 325d E91LCI - sold Alfa Romeo GTV - sold Citroen AX GT - at the breakers Ford Puma 1.7 - sold Volvo V50 2.0d - sold MGB GT - wrecked by fire MG ZT 1.8T - sold VW E-golf Electric - sold Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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Apr 18, 2012 21:29:45 GMT
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this is going to look freaking awesome!
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chin
Part of things
Posts: 96
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Apr 26, 2012 12:38:37 GMT
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So I'm back in the game and running at full speed all due a rather sick engine. A couple of weekends ago I decided I need to get some motivation going to I thought lets get the engine fire up again! Got it all plugged in filled with oil and turned her over on the starter to get the oil round the system. 'CLANG, CLANG, CLANG'! Dam it must be hitting the bodywork some where. Checked it the body work and got a mate to turn it over. Cant seem to see it hitting anywhere... Check it again... turned it over again and checked it and turned it over and checked it and on and on until the depression started to set in... Look around the garage for a rope and a suitable beam, started tying the noose, but thankfully due to my ineptness at knots I was unsuccessful Off I went home head in hands and totally P%&£ED OFF and drank beer! Next day a woke up a said to myself 'MAN UP! Its just a hick up'. So back in the car with the theme tune to Rocky blaring and I'm full steam ahead again! Finished most to the underside. Need to add some support across bottom of transition tunnel since the original one fowled the prop shaft and may be some supports from the front of the reat spring hanger to the chassi like this: Also need to sort some sort of axle locating but the whole underside is undercoated, seam sealed and shoots black. BLACK BLACK BLACK!! And here's my almost finished hydraulic handbrake: This weekend its going to be prepping the interior and engine bay for painting. Interior and engine bay is going white and the exterior is going satin black at the moment. Also purchase a pair of Yokohama Advan Neova 255/40r17 tyres for the rear so they will hopefully be arriving soon so the rear arches can be cut next week.
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chin
Part of things
Posts: 96
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Apr 30, 2012 17:36:35 GMT
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So ended up working sorting the running gear this weekend until an unfortunate incident with an angle grinder (grim picture at end)... Started with stripping down the rear axle, cleaning it up the pistons etc and priming the axle. Didn't get any pictures of that (very good reason for that) apart from a before and after of the the rear cylinder. Then I got on with welding up the diff. I looked into a few different ways to do this. You can do weld gears to gears or to the housing but I heard the strongest way was to weld in a bit of metal and weld the gears to that. Here's how I did it: Cleaned up ready for welding. Used some petrol and paper towels and made sure I got right between the teeth. Next I measured up a plate that would sit nicely in on the teeth. I rotated the diff to make sure that as many teeth as possible were in contact with the plate. I also put a wee curve in the long edges as it so sat better. I used some scrap metal that was about 1/4" thick. Next I wet some rags and packed them around the diff to stop any welding spatter getting on anything else. Then in with the metal Turn the welder up to eleven and melt away! I took my time to make sure the welds were melting the teeth so I'm pretty sure I got some decent penetration so the welds should be strong (fingers crossed). I then turned the diff and repeated the whole thing on the other side. I then waited for it all to cool down and cleaned it up with the wire brush and washed it out with some degreaser. I then game it a liberal coating of WD40 as I was not going to fill it with transmission oil just yet as I need a new seal. Now I've not tested it and this is the first time I've done it so I'm hoping that I'm going along the right lines but cant guarantee it will work. It is however definitely locked so if it does work sideways ahoy! I then turned my attention to the front sub frame. I dismantled it all, jet washed it and gave the hubs, lever arm dampers and king pins a coat of rust eater to prep them for priming. Last was the brake calipers which were not to bad but I thought I'd give them a going over with the wire brush on the angle grinder to make them shiny! Well that went t&ts up big time!! Christ knows how but somehow my cuff got caught on the wire brush and the wire brush got slammed into my wrist where it jammed! Managed to get it turned off but knew I'd done something bad. Pulled it off to see some blood and could see that I'd removed all the skin down to what I thought was the bone or muscle. Managed to grab a bandage and wrap it up after making sure it was not bleeding to much. Then thought I better tidy up the garage a bit a I'd left it in a bit of a state. Jumped in the car and drove 20miles home hoping my girlfriends mum hows a retired nurse could just stitch it up. Decided that was maybe not the best idea and my girlfriend drove me over to A&E. Had a wee wait there and the doctor had a look at it. He told me the bit I thought was muscle or bone was actually a tendant!!! I was fractions of a mm of going through it!!!! There was a slight nick but if should be fine. They ended up having to send me for an operation under a general anesthetic to cut it open and clean it all out but boy was I lucky! Now I've got 10 stitches and a had that cant do much for about 3 weeks... And for your viewing pleasure the grim pic (the white bit in the middle is the tendant):
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Ian
Part of things
Posts: 977
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Apr 30, 2012 18:27:48 GMT
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That's looks like its Definately a locked diff now.
On the other hand / wrist that's a nice battle injury.
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chin
Part of things
Posts: 96
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chin
Part of things
Posts: 96
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mrwall
Part of things
Posts: 57
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good work, I would love to do this but with Honda S2000 running gear!
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sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,392
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looking good Is that height of the rear arches set? or could you mount them further up towards the waist line?
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Current 1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype 2004 TVR T350C 2017 BMW 340i
Previous BMW 325d E91LCI - sold Alfa Romeo GTV - sold Citroen AX GT - at the breakers Ford Puma 1.7 - sold Volvo V50 2.0d - sold MGB GT - wrecked by fire MG ZT 1.8T - sold VW E-golf Electric - sold Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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chin
Part of things
Posts: 96
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Not set yet. Going to get the front subframe mounted tonight and get it on its wheels then see about getting the engine back in to see where everything is sitting.
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sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,392
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Looking forward to more pics
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Current 1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype 2004 TVR T350C 2017 BMW 340i
Previous BMW 325d E91LCI - sold Alfa Romeo GTV - sold Citroen AX GT - at the breakers Ford Puma 1.7 - sold Volvo V50 2.0d - sold MGB GT - wrecked by fire MG ZT 1.8T - sold VW E-golf Electric - sold Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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ewokracing
Part of things
Snuffling for food in a river
Posts: 502
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Nice - it's not a proper car project unless you've spilt blood. Bonus points for a hospital visit!
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chin
Part of things
Posts: 96
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Jun 13, 2012 10:38:32 GMT
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Arches test fit. ;D
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75nut
Part of things
Posts: 512
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Jun 13, 2012 10:59:34 GMT
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Jeez, I was wire brushing something the other day and it slipped and carved up my jeans and did not think much of it, did not realise they could do that much damage!!!
Cars coming on great, way more progress than my MGB
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90 Alfa 75 3.0 V6 Cloverleaf 79 MGB Roadster 88 Saab 900i Convertible 94 MK1 MX5 1.6 05 Volvo V70
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Jun 13, 2012 22:57:46 GMT
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Love these always will widen the rears and leave the fronts
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Sept 2, 2012 14:30:30 GMT
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Wow love to see more of this car, sorry to see your injury tho. Accidents are to easy when your being creative unfortunately, but the finished product will be worth it I'm sure.
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MK5 Transit MK1 capri
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chin
Part of things
Posts: 96
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Sept 5, 2012 18:21:28 GMT
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This is just before I primed it. It needed a wee but more catty work done after priming and I'll be giving it another blast of primer tomorrow where it needs it and then colour next week! Also got some Yokohama ADVAN A048 for the front so it now has 4 black circles! Might post some pics next week if your all nice!
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